Question About Idler Arm

[Logan5]

OK.

Thanks.

I know what the parts are and where. I wasn't sure if the spindle that the Idler Control arm attaches to wears inside the assembly that bolts to the frame or if it was mostly just the arm itself that wears out.

I think for $120, I'll replace the entire idler control arm assembly (sometime) rather than just the arm. That way I can just unbolt from the frame and pop it off the center link and drop the new one in.

Thanks for the consult!

I did the idler arm + pulley as well as the pitman arm at the same time and I didn't find the pitman arm to be that difficult. The trick was to loosen the gearbox bolts (just loosen, not remove), to give the pitman arm enough clearance to get the pitman arm puller tool on.

Here is the kit I bought. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A0AWELW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Once the puller was on I just torqued the puller, then tapped the arm, repeat, until it popped off. Have had harder times with the control arms.

 

[MassHoe04]

I did the idler arm + pulley as well as the pitman arm at the same time and I didn't find the pitman arm to be that difficult. The trick was to loosen the gearbox bolts (just loosen, not remove), to give the pitman arm enough clearance to get the pitman arm puller tool on.

Here is the kit I bought. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A0AWELW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Once the puller was on I just torqued the puller, then tapped the arm, repeat, until it popped off. Have had harder times with the control arms.

Thanks for the info.! I am likely to wait for warm weather to return before tackling.

 

[ncalvo]

Thanks for the info.! I am likely to wait for warm weather to return before tackling.

If you are considering doing your pitman in the future, hit it once a week with some pb blaster now.
I replaced my entire steering and suspension (with exception of center link) the pitman arm I had to give up after bending/snapping two removal tools and have a local shop do it for me.
They charged $100 to do it with my GM pitman arm I got off rockauto.
I typically go with OEM but steering components I did go with Moog for a bunch of it, except the pitman arm there are some stories that the moog or other aftermarket do not fit as a direct replacement, just a heads up.

Edit: I shouldn't say entire steering, I did not replace the steering gear box. While you are working on the steering I recommend tightening up the gear box with the hex adjustment on top, and upper intermediate shaft at the same time.

 

[MassHoe04]

If you are considering doing your pitman in the future, hit it once a week with some pb blaster now.
I replaced my entire steering and suspension (with exception of center link) the pitman arm I had to give up after bending/snapping two removal tools and have a local shop do it for me.
They charged $100 to do it with my GM pitman arm I got off rockauto.
I typically go with OEM but steering components I did go with Moog for a bunch of it, except the pitman arm there are some stories that the moog or other aftermarket do not fit as a direct replacement, just a heads up.

Edit: I shouldn't say entire steering, I did not replace the steering gear box. While you are working on the steering I recommend tightening up the gear box with the hex adjustment on top, and upper intermediate shaft at the same time.

Thanks! Did any of you happen to catch an earlier question I had about the Idler Control Arm?

Where does the excess wear on the Ilder Control Arm tend to happen?
Does the shaft that the arm pivots on wear out too?
Is it worth replacing the entire assembly that bolts onto the frame (with the arm)?
Does replacing the whole thing, even if not really needed, just make the whole job easier by not having to wrestle the arm off the Ilder Control Arm assembly?

 

[OR VietVet]

Personally, I would change both. The idler arm mount area of the bracket is also a wear area. Sure, you will save a few bucks but if you want absolute feel, do both.

If it was not a wear area, it would not have a grease zerk.

 

[drewtx154]

I am currently searching, purchasing and stockpiling my front end suspension parts to tackle this as we speak... It's all getting replaced besides the center link. Didn't look much to that so I sort of just thought that would be unnecessary but maybe someone can explain what I should be looking for when I'm in the trenches and goin to war with the Tahoe! Upper lower control arms, pitman and idler arms, idler arm bracket, center link bushings, sway bar links, inner/outer tie rods, steering gear box, shocks (just ordered those yesterday, possibly front wheel hubs (big maybe but def on the radar), bump stops, maybe torsion keys.... All the while I'm doing the suspension I also will be starting a fight with the front timing cover (got a leak, small one but still a leak) and that's after I did valley cover gasket with new knock sensors and harness, valve cover gasket, intake manifold gaskets, oil pan gasket, pickup tube o ring, so kinda goin into that domain for a second time and since everything is right there I might as well, right? Shoot maybe even intermediate steering shaft and that steering bushing under the dash, by the pedals for the GM steering knock or whatever hey call it... To hell with it might as well do the brakes/rotors/calipers n pads too.... Then after I'm done (probably at least a week without my truck) off to get alignment. I'm buying all the necessary tools to do the jobs. I.e. harmonic balancer puller, installer bolt (along with new actual balancer bolt) pitman puller, and alignment tools, the whole nine I will end up spending about $1000 give or take....no lie. Once done I will add up the total cost and report back but I save money, learn my truck in and out, and get to keep the tools!!!! That's a win/win and then some. But if you don't like to do that sort of thing then that's why they got shops I guess. Long Live the GMT-800!!!

 

[drewtx154]

Soak the pitman arm with penetrant 2-3 times a day for 2-3 days, and use a pitman arm puller. I lived in a salt on roads state and did it all the time. This is all being made to be harder than it is.

Invaluable pro tip right here.... I'd be lost without these treasures. Thank you sir!!! I will get on this Asap....countdown to battle for me is probably about 2 weeks....

 

[OR VietVet]

Invaluable pro tip right here.... I'd be lost without these treasures. Thank you sir!!! I will get on this Asap....countdown to battle for me is probably about 2 weeks....

Right up to the day you do the work, spray it with penetrant. Any bolts, like the ones that attach the idler arm bracket to the frame, that you plan to use again, spray penetrant.

 

[mattbta]

Also, if you're removing everything, pay close attention to the orientation of the centerlink. It is possible to install inversely and will cause steering issues and you will chew through tires since it won't hold alignment.

Droops should be angled backward so the link forms a straight line with the tie rods.

 

[drewtx154]

Also, if you're removing everything, pay close attention to the orientation of the centerlink. It is possible to install inversely and will cause steering issues and you will chew through tires since it won't hold alignment.

Droops should be angled backward so the link forms a straight line with the tie rods.

I hope to not have to remove anything that doesn't need to be removed in order for me to accomplish the end goal. I plan on working smart and not excessively hard but sometimes that doesn't always work in my favor. In my research, the center link can stay put and the closest I will get to removing it will be changing out the bushing that mate it with the frame. But thank you for the knowledge.

 

[mattbta]

I hope to not have to remove anything that doesn't need to be removed in order for me to accomplish the end goal. I plan on working smart and not excessively hard but sometimes that doesn't always work in my favor. In my research, the center link can stay put and the closest I will get to removing it will be changing out the bushing that mate it with the frame. But thank you for the knowledge.

Centerlink is attached to the tie rods at either end and then to the pitman and idler arms. Firestone took it completely off when replacing my pitman arm and tie rods and put it back on improperly. You’re right though, it can stay put.

Front sway bar is attached via bushings and brackets.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

 

[bldn10]

This is an old thread but maybe I'll get lucky. '06 2WD Escalade pushing 140,000 miles. In Jan. 2023 I took it in for essentially the 100K mile service. I specifically listed to check "steering and suspension," and they did not raise any issues. But, oddly, after picking it up the ride seemed degraded to me. A month ago, 16,000 miles after they had not suggested any suspension or steering work, I took it back mainly for A/C not cooling well. I also mentioned that the ride had seemed rough since they last had it. When I picked up up his time they said it needed idler and pitman arms, shocks all around, and new tires - about $5000 worth! I only paid $8000 (a great deal) for it 6 years ago. I find it somewhat hard to believe.
So, I'm not asking about doing that work myself, my question now is what is the risk of not doing it? The steering is fine and I don't hear any knocking when turning. Moreover, I replaced the rear air shocks and springs w/ the Bilsteins recommended here and it rides much better. However, the RF tire is pretty worn on the outside and it pulls a bit to the left.
This is not my daily driver, and its use is going to drop significantly going forward. I do pull a track car on an open trailer from time to time.