KevinGn_WV
TYF Newbie
I could lie and say its on my 92 Yukon, but I wont. Its on a 92 K2500 I just bought and I dont feel like joining another board since you guys/gals seem pretty smart.
I just bought this truck and though the body, frame, and most everything else is in great shape, I got it cheap. Cheap because of this miss.
So heres the basics. 350/auto/TBI. 225k on the clock, and no idea if this is the original engine, rebuilt, reman, jy or what, I just dont know so Im assuming its an untouched original.
I started with the obvious, plugs, wires, cap, button. It had the cheapest bosch in it which I replaced with APP25 Autolites. The old ones were black and wet. All of them. Three of which were not much more than finger tight. It also had Bosch Magna core wires, and the cap & button, IDK. The wires were probably ok but I wanted to be sure. The contacts inside the cap were horriblely knicked and all had what looked like an almost white, slightly grey looking buildup that looked like oxidation or corrosion.
Heres the interesting part. The button was rusted onto its shaft and I actually had to break it off, the sand smooth the shaft before the new one would go on. Also, inside the dizzy was rusty looking. What I think is the magnetic pickup? that sits on top of the pickup coil has a coating of rust. Its not rusted solid. it wiggles around and I shot it a couple times with MAF cleaner. Removed the pickup coil, and cleaned the contacts and the mating surface, although I did forget to coat the mating surface with di-e grease. Big issue?
Put it all back together, and very little improvement if any. It has a pronounced, rythmatic miss at idle. (which leads me to believe its ignition related) In gear, either R or D its worse, obviously, however as the revs come up it "seems" to smooth out.
It holds good oil pressure and I dont hear and ticking or thunking. The SES light has not lit up at all, but I do know it works, as it lights when in the key-on, not running, like all the other lights in the cluster.
The temp gauge does not operate. I know the temp helps control timing and so forth, so possible this is part of the problem?
No vacuum leaks found. PCVs rattle and are not clogged end to end. EGR is not stuck, though I didnt test to see if its operating properly.
I do not have a way to scan or test the system. Its in my garage which is now buried in 2 feet of snow. What do I need to purchase to "scan" the system? Price range? And where to purchase locally if possible. We have all of the major parts stores.
Thinking of things as I go here so bear with me. The dizzy is not loose, but I cant say the previous owner didnt move it thinking they could adjust the timing. Though not likely. Dizzy shaft didnt seem to have any play in it. Moderately strong fuel odor after shutdown, with the cleaner off. Normal?
Thanks in advance for any help, advice, and/or suggestions. Ill be bored and stuck in the house for a few days.
EDIT: Afterthought...I was positive the damaged components I replaced would correct the issue.Now thinking the actual problem caused the issues I found?
I just bought this truck and though the body, frame, and most everything else is in great shape, I got it cheap. Cheap because of this miss.
So heres the basics. 350/auto/TBI. 225k on the clock, and no idea if this is the original engine, rebuilt, reman, jy or what, I just dont know so Im assuming its an untouched original.
I started with the obvious, plugs, wires, cap, button. It had the cheapest bosch in it which I replaced with APP25 Autolites. The old ones were black and wet. All of them. Three of which were not much more than finger tight. It also had Bosch Magna core wires, and the cap & button, IDK. The wires were probably ok but I wanted to be sure. The contacts inside the cap were horriblely knicked and all had what looked like an almost white, slightly grey looking buildup that looked like oxidation or corrosion.
Heres the interesting part. The button was rusted onto its shaft and I actually had to break it off, the sand smooth the shaft before the new one would go on. Also, inside the dizzy was rusty looking. What I think is the magnetic pickup? that sits on top of the pickup coil has a coating of rust. Its not rusted solid. it wiggles around and I shot it a couple times with MAF cleaner. Removed the pickup coil, and cleaned the contacts and the mating surface, although I did forget to coat the mating surface with di-e grease. Big issue?
Put it all back together, and very little improvement if any. It has a pronounced, rythmatic miss at idle. (which leads me to believe its ignition related) In gear, either R or D its worse, obviously, however as the revs come up it "seems" to smooth out.
It holds good oil pressure and I dont hear and ticking or thunking. The SES light has not lit up at all, but I do know it works, as it lights when in the key-on, not running, like all the other lights in the cluster.
The temp gauge does not operate. I know the temp helps control timing and so forth, so possible this is part of the problem?
No vacuum leaks found. PCVs rattle and are not clogged end to end. EGR is not stuck, though I didnt test to see if its operating properly.
I do not have a way to scan or test the system. Its in my garage which is now buried in 2 feet of snow. What do I need to purchase to "scan" the system? Price range? And where to purchase locally if possible. We have all of the major parts stores.
Thinking of things as I go here so bear with me. The dizzy is not loose, but I cant say the previous owner didnt move it thinking they could adjust the timing. Though not likely. Dizzy shaft didnt seem to have any play in it. Moderately strong fuel odor after shutdown, with the cleaner off. Normal?
Thanks in advance for any help, advice, and/or suggestions. Ill be bored and stuck in the house for a few days.
EDIT: Afterthought...I was positive the damaged components I replaced would correct the issue.Now thinking the actual problem caused the issues I found?
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