Please Help w/ HID Issue!

[Clean07Burb]

There ya go!

 

[Mester320]

I am going to do a lot of research to try and figure this out. Hopefully someone else chimes in.


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[Clean07Burb]

Keep us updated if you find a solution.

 

[Mester320]

So I am not sure if this helps. I just wanted to get some discussion going about the possibility of this being the issue.

• 2007-2013 Chevrolet Silverado-DRL Disable recommended by pulling the DRL and the DRL2 fuses under the hood in the relay box on the driver side. (found this on stricklyhids.com troubleshooting page)

My thought here is that for what ever reason something is trying to pull to much current at one time. In turn not powering up the driver's side ballast. Only issue with this theory is that so many others run HIDs without any issues at all. Only one way to find out I guess. I am just tired of taking the bumper off. This would be so much easier to troubleshoot if we didn't have to remove the bumper every time we wanted to try something different.

Also was there any luck to trying capacitors? TRS sells harnesses with them and the grounds already wired in.

I will be calling them as soon as they are in the office today to see if they would like to help us. Hope they don't treat me like some idiot that has never installed and HID kit before...

 

[Mester320]

So I just got off the phone with TRS and they are positive that it has to be bad bulb wires.. these are the wires that connect the igniter to the back of the bulb. Not sure if I stated this before but I had tracked my issues to the igniter originally (the passenger side did not work when the igniter and bulb wires hooked up to it).

The one mistake that I made was leaving the bulb wires connected to the igniter and never swapping the bulb wires. I have already had the one igniter replaced because I had tracked the issue to the one part but I never thought about the bulb wires being bad.

Then when I got the new igniter and plugged it in to the "supposed" bad bulb wires and got the same result I ruled out bad components and moved on to troubleshoot the harness...completely overlooking the sneaky bulb wires.

I am so interested to see if that is what was wrong that I may be tearing the bumper off the Tahoe tonight!

TRS is sending me new bulb wires and they were more than accommodating and didn't get mad about my mistake with the igniter. They also said that I can return the kit if we can't figure this out. But I really want to get this kit to work because I have plans for a BFC retrofit.

 

[Mester320]

They also stated the only way that capacitors would help would be if there was pulsing voltage for vehicles that has low beam/DRL as one. We have dedicated low beams and dedicated DRLS so I am pretty sure we can rule them out as a fix.

 

[Clean07Burb]

You don't have to pull the bumper to get to the back of the headlights. At leastI didn't in the million times I had everything apart tryang to get mine working.

Let us know if pulling those two fuses works. I disabled my auto headlight feature by installing a resistor into the light sensor on the dash.

 

[Mester320]

Yeah I pulled everything out over the weekend so it is going to be like a new install. I even went as far as ordering vled's new LMZ LED headlights until I realized that they wouldn't fit So now I have to focus on making these work!

I will let you know how it goes. Just trying to keep my expectations low...

Could you send me some info on how to disable the auto headlights?

 

[Clean07Burb]

If you look at the center of the dash, you'll see that little globe looking sensor sticking up. I think it's like an ambient light sensor. You have to remove both driver and passenger side A pillar covers and then that front portion of the dash will snap right out giving you access to the sensor. Just unplug it and install the resistor into the plug and then tape it up good because the resistors tend to build up some heat. That will give you full control over your headlights via your headlight switch.

 

[Mester320]

Ok thanks. I thought that's what that little dome was.

 

[Clean07Burb]

Yup.

 

[Mester320]

wonder if you could just cover the dome with black electrical tape? Then it would think it is dark all the time..?

 

[Clean07Burb]

You could, but you want it to think it's light all the time, not dark. If it thinks it's dark all the time then it'll constantly be turning the headlights on every time you start the truck.

You want the truck to think it's light all the time so it doesn't try turning the lights on. That gives you full control over when the lights are on/off.

 

[Mester320]

Good point. I have the switchback LED mod done for the DRLs and parking lights which looks awesome but they have to be turned on by either the fog light switch or the parking light selection on the dial as they source their power from the parking lights signal. Great mod and looks awesome but does not run like the DRLs do. Was just trying to think how I could get them to run at startup but like you said the headlights will come on too.

 

[Clean07Burb]

Exactly.

 

[Mester320]

So I am extremely excited!! I received the new bulb wires this week and just installed them and to my surprise both lights are working flawlessly!!!! I can't believe that all my pain and suffering was from a pair of ****** little bulb wires.

Clean07Burb do you think that this could have possibly been your issue? But at one point didn't you have the issue switch sides on you without the harness? It just seems to much of a coincidence that our issues were so similar and it not be the same thing. Or it just may be something weird going on with your truck.

Not sure but I would be happy to help in any way that I can.

Retrofit dreams are alive again!!

 

[Clean07Burb]

What? It's working?! Sweet!

What exactly did you replace? Which bulb wires?

And yes, if I used the relay harness provided with the kit, the driver's side wouldn't work. If I wired them up directly to the OEM headlight plugs, without using the relay harness, then the driver's side worked and the passenger side didn't.

I'm really curious if our problem was the same.

 

[Clean07Burb]

Just re-read your post on page 7. So the bad wires you're referring to are the ones that connect the igniter to the bulb? So they were bad right out of the box?

 

[Mester320]

The wires that connect the igniter to the back of the bulb were the issue.

Yes they were bad right out of the box. So the TRS sent me new ones for both sides and all is well now!

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[Mester320]

Also one thing I didn't mention before was that I did use the short reverse polarity adapter between the vehicles bulb plug and the wiring harness input. Does that make sense?


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