I recently had to jump start my 2019 Tahoe and assumed since the battery was over 4 years old, it was the issue. The dash voltage looked good. After changing the battery, I drove it for a few days and then had to jump it after work. Driving back home, both sets of blinkers (front/back and left/right) showed warning that they were out and giving the classic speeded up sound. When I checked, all the blinkers were working correctly. It now drains the battery in less than an hour. Any ideas where to start or what it may be?
parasitic draw on battery
- Thread starter BSBax
- Start date
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It is likely the battery but clean/tight cable connections count too. Alternator output?
Need one of these: PPDRAW made by Power Probe.
Need one of these: PPDRAW made by Power Probe.
Short trips don't fully charge a battery, so if that's the case schedule longer trips.
Have the new battery charged and load tested to rule it out.
Perform a parasitic draw test. Don't use the "pull the fuses" method, since it can wake up modules during the test; there's an easier way. There are lots of good YouTube videos on diagnosing parasitic draw. Here's one:
Have the new battery charged and load tested to rule it out.
Perform a parasitic draw test. Don't use the "pull the fuses" method, since it can wake up modules during the test; there's an easier way. There are lots of good YouTube videos on diagnosing parasitic draw. Here's one:
Thjat is the beauty of the Power Probe PPDRAW tool. You plug it in to the 16 pin data link connector and then you can remove the negative cable from battery without losing connection. The PPDRAW tool has it's own battery in it. This tool will save time and hassles when tracking down a battery draining draw.
What sort of capacity does its battery have? If his draw drains the battery overnight, the PPDRAW probably won't overcome that if it's being used as a substitute supply.
One other useful item for tracing current draws is a thermal camera to identify modules that are staying warm.
It says to limit the testing to no more than 10 amps but I don't recall a time limit. I would not consider that a "parasitic" draw. That is a major draw. Did you go to their website and see what they said. I can if you want me too. It can also serve as a battery to save memory, if changing out the main battery.
IV. Precautions 1. This product can only be connected to the OBDII port of a car to complete the corresponding functions. Please do not connect it directly to active devices without using the OBDII port. Before connecting to the OBDII port, please make sure that the car’s OBDII port is a standard OBDII port and the wiring is correct. It is recommended to verify that there are no major faults in the car’s power supply system before connecting the unit. If the OBDII port is not standard, wiring errors and other reasons cause damage to the machine or car circuit, our company will not be held responsible. 2. The maximum output current of this product is 10A. The limited current of the OBDII port of some cars is lower than this value, and there may be current limiting measures such as fuses. Therefore, after connecting the Smart Output of this product, it is recommended not to make the current of the entire car system greater than the limited current of the OBDII port of the car itself, so as to avoid problems such as the car’s own OBDII fuse being blown.Do not input voltages exceeding the device’s range (30V) into the OBDII port. If a voltage exceeds the range, disconnect the voltage as soon as possible. If the voltage exceeds 30V, an overvoltage warning interface will be displayed. 3. The device can output a maximum of 10A current. If the current exceeds this limit, an overcurrent warning interface will be displayed. Do not output current exceeding 10A for an extended period. If an overcurrent warning appears, restore the current to normal as soon as possible. 4. The device can output a maximum of 10A current. If the current exceeds this limit, an overcurrent warning interface will be displayed. Do not output current exceeding 10A for an extended period. If an overcurrent warning appears, restore the current to normal as soon as possible.
IV. Precautions 1. This product can only be connected to the OBDII port of a car to complete the corresponding functions. Please do not connect it directly to active devices without using the OBDII port. Before connecting to the OBDII port, please make sure that the car’s OBDII port is a standard OBDII port and the wiring is correct. It is recommended to verify that there are no major faults in the car’s power supply system before connecting the unit. If the OBDII port is not standard, wiring errors and other reasons cause damage to the machine or car circuit, our company will not be held responsible. 2. The maximum output current of this product is 10A. The limited current of the OBDII port of some cars is lower than this value, and there may be current limiting measures such as fuses. Therefore, after connecting the Smart Output of this product, it is recommended not to make the current of the entire car system greater than the limited current of the OBDII port of the car itself, so as to avoid problems such as the car’s own OBDII fuse being blown.Do not input voltages exceeding the device’s range (30V) into the OBDII port. If a voltage exceeds the range, disconnect the voltage as soon as possible. If the voltage exceeds 30V, an overvoltage warning interface will be displayed. 3. The device can output a maximum of 10A current. If the current exceeds this limit, an overcurrent warning interface will be displayed. Do not output current exceeding 10A for an extended period. If an overcurrent warning appears, restore the current to normal as soon as possible. 4. The device can output a maximum of 10A current. If the current exceeds this limit, an overcurrent warning interface will be displayed. Do not output current exceeding 10A for an extended period. If an overcurrent warning appears, restore the current to normal as soon as possible.
No, I didn't look at their info. I have a great inductive clamp DVOM that is good down to DC mA, which most are not. I used it on my issue a few years back, but haven't had the need for the PP one.
