Parasitic Drain, Possibly IPC issue??

[alaska_guy]

Long story short I just had to buy a new battery.

I have receipts from previous owner and it looks like the IPC was replaced about 3 years ago. I am having an odd issue with the IPC and radio, might be two different issues as I have bose system and possibly amp is starting to die?

Symptom 1: Vehicle starts fine, gauges all look to work as well as PRNDL however the digital readout information below PRDNL does not work. After driving for about 15 minutes and then shutting the vehicle off and then back on the digital portion will work again and works again until sat for a long period of time.

Symptom 2 (continuation of symptom 1): After 15min ride I will pull over, turn vehicle off and then go to put key in to start vehicle the digital readout shows like symbols/text. Once I turn on the vehicle the square bars appear like normal on the digital portion and then shows Driver 1 like expected and digital readout works until I let vehicle sit for a long period of time.

Symptom 3: Bose Stereo is on and acts like its playing but no sound comes out of speakers, after about 10-15 min the speakers will start working.

I had alternator and battery tested 2 days ago. Alternator was deemed good and battery was deemed bad at 83% battery life, replaced with a gold battery and 5 year warranty.


Could my IPC be draining the battery? I am throwing a battery tender on the vehicle when I come home to park it for the time being so I don't kill this new battery.

Attached is a picture after about 15 min with "key on engine off" right before I start the vehicle.

 

[alaska_guy]

I used my DMM and checked and there is not a parasitic drain happening. I went through the receipts and it looks like both the battery and the IPC were replaced a little over 7 years ago. So more than likely the battery was just at end of life.

I was able to confirm that after driving and then turning the vehicle off then opening the door and closing it all the courtesy lights would go off. After the lights went off if I open the door, the mileage area on the cluster tries to light up. The wifes escalade does not do this. So its acting like the IPC may be getting a 12v source that's hooked into the courtesy lights somehow.

I need to get a diagram but my guess would be that the IPC requires a 12v constant and a 12v triggered source by the ignition. My thinking behind this is due to the fact that how else would your cluster know to track mileage, hours, mpg, etc. It would need a constant 12v source so that information isn't lost every time you park your vehicle. The trigger 12v makes sense as you would want the rest of the IPC to come on with the ignition circuit for the gauges, digital readout, PRNDL etc.

I will do some diagnosis, but I am pretty sure either the cluster itself is bad or needs to be reflowed as it would be pretty non traditional to mess with the single IPC harness behind it to try and resolve an IPC issue.

 

[Doubeleive]

I used my DMM and checked and there is not a parasitic drain happening. I went through the receipts and it looks like both the battery and the IPC were replaced a little over 7 years ago. So more than likely the battery was just at end of life.

I was able to confirm that after driving and then turning the vehicle off then opening the door and closing it all the courtesy lights would go off. After the lights went off if I open the door, the mileage area on the cluster tries to light up. The wifes escalade does not do this. So its acting like the IPC may be getting a 12v source that's hooked into the courtesy lights somehow.

I need to get a diagram but my guess would be that the IPC requires a 12v constant and a 12v triggered source by the ignition. My thinking behind this is due to the fact that how else would your cluster know to track mileage, hours, mpg, etc. It would need a constant 12v source so that information isn't lost every time you park your vehicle. The trigger 12v makes sense as you would want the rest of the IPC to come on with the ignition circuit for the gauges, digital readout, PRNDL etc.

I will do some diagnosis, but I am pretty sure either the cluster itself is bad or needs to be reflowed as it would be pretty non traditional to mess with the single IPC harness behind it to try and resolve an IPC issue.

the cluster lighting up just from opening the door isn't right for your year, it is for the 2015+, you may have a short somewhere in the cluster or it's just bad period.

 

[alaska_guy]

Yeah, I am thinking it's the cluster. Been talking with a cluster repair shop and he says he sees it all the time. So new cluster is in order. I am going to remove mine and see if I can reflow the solder joints first.

 

[alaska_guy]

Well, the guy I was working with said he doesn't accept from Alaska due to high shipping costs. I went ahead and decided I would just tackle it myself since I used to be an electrician and have been doing computers for a few decades now and have done some component level repair back in the day when it was more common, especially on cash registers.

Basically was able to rebuild the cluster and get it working properly again. I bought another used cluster and plan to rebuild that one as well. I figured out how to reprogram the thing too for another vehicle if needed. So I can basically rebuild clusters now. Disregard the needle positions, I threw them on there quickly as I need to pull the cluster again and replace with LEDS as I have some burned out backlighting.

 

[alaska_guy]

Just got done rebuilding this cluster. Can't ever seem to get the needles to look right in pics due to angle. But they are right. Really digging it.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Nice work!!

 

[Daves02Yuk]

View attachment 237776 Long story short I just had to buy a new battery.

I have receipts from previous owner and it looks like the IPC was replaced about 3 years ago. I am having an odd issue with the IPC and radio, might be two different issues as I have bose system and possibly amp is starting to die?

Symptom 1: Vehicle starts fine, gauges all look to work as well as PRNDL however the digital readout information below PRDNL does not work. After driving for about 15 minutes and then shutting the vehicle off and then back on the digital portion will work again and works again until sat for a long period of time.

Symptom 2 (continuation of symptom 1): After 15min ride I will pull over, turn vehicle off and then go to put key in to start vehicle the digital readout shows like symbols/text. Once I turn on the vehicle the square bars appear like normal on the digital portion and then shows Driver 1 like expected and digital readout works until I let vehicle sit for a long period of time.

Symptom 3: Bose Stereo is on and acts like its playing but no sound comes out of speakers, after about 10-15 min the speakers will start working.

I had alternator and battery tested 2 days ago. Alternator was deemed good and battery was deemed bad at 83% battery life, replaced with a gold battery and 5 year warranty.


Could my IPC be draining the battery? I am throwing a battery tender on the vehicle when I come home to park it for the time being so I don't kill this new battery.

Attached is a picture after about 15 min with "key on engine off" right before I start the vehicle.

I had the same problem with my 02 Yukon, parasitic draw draining my battery . I found the cause to be my 'transfer case control module' to be bad. Went to junk yard and found one cheaper than buying a new one. Fixed the problem ! Also of note, when I selected the '4wd mode' I had a message displayed on my dash that said' Service 4wd system'. So that's how I had gotten that far to find where my drain was bu using a tester on the fuse under the hood where '4wd' was locatsd. I hope that helped.

 

[alaska_guy]

Good info. However, my issue wasn't parasitic drain. It was simply a 7 year old battery met it's maker.

I did the same and tested across fuses as well as battery for amp draw and all was good.

 

[LEDFoot]

I had the same problem with my 02 Yukon, parasitic draw draining my battery . I found the cause to be my 'transfer case control module' to be bad. Went to junk yard and found one cheaper than buying a new one. Fixed the problem ! Also of note, when I selected the '4wd mode' I had a message displayed on my dash that said' Service 4wd system'. So that's how I had gotten that far to find where my drain was bu using a tester on the fuse under the hood where '4wd' was locatsd. I hope that helped.

It might help me, I'm about to embark on a parasite hunt myself, not a place where I would have expected to find drain.