OEM oil cooler block discoveries....

[rdezs]

I'm wondering if on the early models they only included it if you had the trailer towing package?

Other than when towing a heavy load, it's probably not even necessary. (Particularly with today's synthetic oils)

Our 2025 Peterbilt trucks at work, such as the one I'm driving right now, keeps the oil between 225 and 245°. That's with a full synthetic 15W40. And that's the factory specs on it. It maintains that temperature range whether you're empty running down the freeway, or fully loaded to 105,500 lb with wood chips climbing the pass.

The oil change interval is rather impressive. Cummins has it at 45,000 miles for weight up to 80,000 lb, we run extended weights and our interval is 35,000 miles.

So yeah, with today's synthetic oils I wouldn't worry too much about not having an oil cooler on the 6.2, unless you're pulling 15,000 pounds up a 5 Mile long 7% grade.

Just got on the freeway empty, check out the oil temp

 

[alpha_omega]

Here's what I converted to last year.... Put one on the 2014 Escalade and one on the 2003 Hummer.
View attachment 460893

Do you have a parts list breakdown of what you used for this? In case future members want to go diving head first.

You mentioned what was used, just not specific p/n or fittings used. Please feel free to update and/or correct any goofs I made on the list below.

- x2 -8an braided stainless steel lines *if making your own lines also needed:
- x4 -8an female to hose end fittings

- x2 -8an female to -8an male 90° swivel
*(or -8an female to -8an hose end)
- Derale (I can’t think of the name of this part. Fuel rail connector or block off plate with ORB?)
- x2 -8an male to 1/2” or 9/16” NPT *used at the radiator or external cooler
- fire sleeve or protective boot of some sort that you used for routing and mounting near the engine.

*also worth making note is the spacing difference for those who have AWD vs RWD and those with fully functional motor mounts vs those with total blowouts. Might make things a bit tricky.

Nice write up and research thus far!

 

[rdezs]

I will have to dig through my notes and find those part numbers.

I made one alteration about 4 months ago, came across a cleaner bracket to hold the hoses utilizing the OEM bolt on the left side of the engine:

Available here:
Hose bracket

 

[rdezs]

I then picked up some large heat shrink tubing from Napa, slid over the hoses where they go through the bracket. Two layers, I figured extra protection. Probably doesn't need it though.

 

[OBSandaNNBS]

I will have to dig through my notes and find those part numbers.

I made one alteration about 4 months ago, came across a cleaner bracket to hold the hoses utilizing the OEM bolt on the left side of the engine:

View attachment 474412

Available here:
Hose bracket

Aw man, I wish I would've thought to look for that! My cooler line was a super pain to remove. I did not want to screw with the diff, I had the motor mount to do anyway.
I highly suggest doing both if one is bad and the other is suspect if you have 4wd/AWD.
I think the oil leak is like 90% gone. The amount of doil (dirt+oil=doil) on that truck BLEW my mind. It was falling off everything.
I still haven't found out if the thermostat inside was faulty. Still on my bench...I'll check over Christmas.