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Phisher

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Hey guys I got a 2002 Yukon I had issues a few months ago where it wouldn't start changed out battery all that and still wouldn't start and found out that it was the security lock out. I've got all that fixed now I'm getting a no fuel issue I turn the key over it cranks and cranks but I get nothing, so I've changed out put a brand new fuel pump in ,brand new fuel filter and I noticed that it still wasn't firing up so I checked the relay put a new relay and still getting nothing, so I bypass that relay and I can get the fuel pump to turn over but the car still will not get gas what could this be can anybody help me I'm sick of dumping money into this thing
 

exp500

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Probably still the security lockout. What Codes are showing? And what scanner are you using?
 
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Phisher

Phisher

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Did the whole security system not even a month and a half ago so I highly doubt it's that and if it is I'm going to kill them freaking shop that did it cuz it cost me two grand. Not using a scanner I'm doing it all by old school method of checking fuses and putting new parts in like I said I put in a new fuel pump a new fuel filter new relay the relay doesn't work so I jump around it by putting a wire in pin 30 and pin 87 then the pump will run but I still get no start I have gas squirting out at the engine when I hit the relief valve so I don't understand what more it could be other than the fuel pressure regulator
 

exp500

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No ground at the computer for injectors, because of theft detected. Scanner would show it. Also, why is your theft light not flashing? Sounds like warranty work for that shop.
 

rockola1971

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Throwing parts that havent been found to be bad beforehand is just going to make life more difficult. What happens when one of the "new" parts is bad? Now you have 2 problems, or 3 or 4! You need to invest in a tech 2 clone or a used real one.(They run around $300 for a clone) Maybe find someone around you on here that has one? Location? This chassis is stupid easy to figure out with a Tech 2. Its what GM service dept. used when our vehicles were brand new and then some years. If you dont know how to use a voltmeter to troubleshoot electrical problems then you may need to bring someone in on the Tahoe circus.
 

Doubeleive

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as noted above it could just be a bad ground on the injector harness, it has happened to others before. check for ground on the injector harness, if it is bad you can just ground it to the body/frame as a temporary fix
 

Doubeleive

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No ground at the computer for injectors, because of theft detected. Scanner would show it. Also, why is your theft light not flashing? Sounds like warranty work for that shop.
pretty sure the anti-theft simply cuts the fuel pump only, but I could be wrong
 
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Phisher

Phisher

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No ground at the computer for injectors, because of theft detected. Scanner would show it. Also, why is your theft light not flashing? Sounds like warranty work for that shop.
My security lights been blinking like crazy since 3 months ago when I was originally locked out with the ignition lockout they replaced all that and the security lights blinked ever since
 
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Phisher

Phisher

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Throwing parts that havent been found to be bad beforehand is just going to make life more difficult. What happens when one of the "new" parts is bad? Now you have 2 problems, or 3 or 4! You need to invest in a tech 2 clone or a used real one.(They run around $300 for a clone) Maybe find someone around you on here that has one? Location? This chassis is stupid easy to figure out with a Tech 2. Its what GM service dept. used when our vehicles were brand new and then some years. If you dont know how to use a voltmeter to troubleshoot electrical problems then you may need to bring someone in on the Tahoe circus.
No I understand you need a tool like that but all I put in there was a fuel pump and a fuel filter it needed it anyways after that I've stopped that's why I'm here I want to fix this myself I'm into it too deep now because I bought it for $3,000 it cost me just a little under $2,000 to have it fixed with the ignition lock out and now I'm into it a little bit more around 400 I got to fix it myself or sell it cuz it's not worth it... And when you say voltmeter are you talking the multimeter cuz I have been trying to use that as much as possible watching videos and trying to copy what they're doing
 

MassHoe04

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I believe multi-meter is the other tool mentioned above.

You might not have time or cash, but the Tech 2 can potentially save a lot of money. More than the $300 cost... More importantly, saving time. And time is money, especially for those of us with daily drivers needed to get to work.
The real beauty of the Tech 2 is that it can get into virtually every sensor and control device on the truck. Being able to look at a specific part, seeing what its current status is (on/off/idle/open/closed) and live data on things like voltage into and coming out of the device, is HUGE! It can speed up the process of identifying which things are working and not working. The real cool part is being able to go in and manipulate all these components, make them open/close/on/off and see if they are receiving and sending current like they should. All that information, without crawling under or even disconnecting any wire connectors.

I had a Service Airbag light come on just yesterday. I got in to see that I have an issue with my front impact sensor performance. I will be checking to see if it is just a crusty connection. If not, I'll replace the sensor. Since this was only my second time plugging the Tech 2 into my Tahoe, I decided to poke around and check out control functions under the different "Special Functions" menus. Through the Tech 2, I was rolling windows up and down, locking/unlocking doors, recalibrated the temperature control door actuator. It was fun!

Not harping on you for not having one. Just letting you know the power of information and what kind of information the Tech 2 can give you in diagnosing problems.

Like @rockola1971 mentioned, maybe somebody near you might have a Tech 2 nearby and may even be willing to help you out.
 

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