Need help with Tahoe shutting off?

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Rpenajr4

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Recently my 2008 Tahoe, turns off while I’m driving. I pull over and there’s no crank over, no click on the ignition. I wait give it about 5-10 minutes then it cranks over starts and gets me home depending how I am. The battery is good, and recently I replaced the alternator since it took a crap on me, the little battery light turned on, on my instrument cluster. Definitely need help resolving this issue.
 

alvocado

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This sounds like an electrical issue if the symptom is similar to when you have an alternator die and the truck stalls after the battery is drained. Have you checked your ground connections and inspected the wiring? I would suspect you are getting intermittent power supply.
 
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Rpenajr4

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This sounds like an electrical issue if the symptom is similar to when you have an alternator die and the truck stalls after the battery is drained. Have you checked your ground connections and inspected the wiring? I would suspect you are getting intermittent power supply.
All the grounds or engine ground?
 

rdezs

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I would focus on the negative cable ground to the block, as well as the ground wire coming off the back of the cylinder head to the firewall. If your cables are original, I would replace both positive and negative. (For at least check the cables for resistance)

I would also pull up to pretty much any auto parts store and ask them to load test the battery on the vehicle, as well as test the alternator output on the vehicle. I think AutoZone still does that. It wouldn't be the first time someone bought it defective new or rebuilt alternator..... And sometimes batteries just go bad, regardless of age.
 
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Rpenajr4

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I would focus on the negative cable ground to the block, as well as the ground wire coming off the back of the cylinder head to the firewall. If your cables are original, I would replace both positive and negative. (For at least check the cables for resistance)

I would also pull up to pretty much any auto parts store and ask them to load test the battery on the vehicle, as well as test the alternator output on the vehicle. I think AutoZone still does that. It wouldn't be the first time someone bought it defective new or rebuilt alternator..... And sometimes batteries just go bad, regardless of age.

I would focus on the negative cable ground to the block, as well as the ground wire coming off the back of the cylinder head to the firewall. If your cables are original, I would replace both positive and negative. (For at least check the cables for resistance)

I would also pull up to pretty much any auto parts store and ask them to load test the battery on the vehicle, as well as test the alternator output on the vehicle. I think AutoZone still does that. It wouldn't be the first time someone bought it defective new or rebuilt alternator..... And sometimes batteries just go bad, regardless of age.
Ok so I let the truck run at my house, ran for almost 30 minutes turned off. I turn the key off went to the fuse box, I heard the run/crank relay click and the truck started up.
 

rdezs

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Sounds like your ignition switch is toasted
 

rdezs

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Ahh.... Lol, it read like it started up while you were standing there looking at the relay
 
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Rpenajr4

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Ahh.... Lol, it read like it started up while you were standing there looking at the relay
Yeah forgot to mention that I actually went back to the inside and turned the key over. But yeah heard the relay click went back turned the key over and started.
 
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Rpenajr4

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One more thing I noticed, the relay get super hot to the touch, so I don’t know if it’s overloading and that’s what causing the relay to break contact and temporarily shutting off my Tahoe.
 
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Rpenajr4

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Ok it’s been a long while since I last posted, so inspected the wire whiteness from the fuse block under the hood no broken wires. Truck now runs about 20 minutes then shuts off, I turn the ignition off pull the run/crank and the trn/pwr relay the truck turns back on and runs for another 10-15 minutes and have to repeat the cycle. I’m really at a loss here anyone have run into this problem.
 

John H Daniel

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My 2011 Yukon just shut off a couple of times as well as other electrical issues- high beams, blinkers...
It's not the cables as some folks think, it was the engine bay fuse box. I took it apart per some Youtube guy and the connections were corroded and some maybe shorted. See pic
cleaned it with contact cleaner and plastic brush. Works fine.
fuse board.jpg
 

rdezs

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Looks like one more thing to add to the list of maintenance items....
 

JoeBlobs

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Might be a shot in the dark, but check the fuse for ECMB, and make sure its getting consistent power. I had a similar issue with this.
 

Matahoe

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Recently my 2008 Tahoe, turns off while I’m driving. I pull over and there’s no crank over, no click on the ignition. I wait give it about 5-10 minutes then it cranks over starts and gets me home depending how I am. The battery is good, and recently I replaced the alternator since it took a crap on me, the little battery light turned on, on my instrument cluster. Definitely need help resolving this issue.
I would first check with another battery that is known to be good no matter what condition you think yours is in. There maybe an internal battery fault. Does charging the battery with a charger off truck do anything to extend engine run time? If so I would highly suspect the alternator. A fully charged battery should read 12.6 volts with key off. Does the battery voltage go down over a few days?
 

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Please see the duplicate thread.

 
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