Need help with 2010 Hybrid Escalade

[makintoshnex]

I was directed here from Cadillac forum. Guys suggested me to look here for help.
Long story short.
I got vehicle November last year with 135k miles.
Got issues fixed most of them.
Like all new front end rear original shocks.
New coils, new wires,new spark plugs.
New MAF sensors.
New 12v Battery.
New front end suspension.
New rear springs.
Replaced belt + 2 engine mounts.
All new brakes and rotors.
Replaced oil in 2 diffs, gear box and transfer case, of course in engine too.
Right 1 week after that new rear diff ( old one broke). Month right after that that diff sounded again, Caddy still at AAMCO waiting for new one.
(Maybe I should dump that GM junk, and get myself a Toyota)
I already dumped like 6-7 k in it and it is still broken.
I have a random misfire and clicking noise that comes from gear box at acceleration and deceleration, so whyle Caddy is there I asked them to diagnose and give me information what's wrong with the vehicle. They said everything is fine except for the two codes which are p0562 and p0420. I don't know why, but they relate those codes to the hybrid system. And currently I'm trying to find the dealers repair book for the Cadillac Escalade Hybrid, I want to find the wiring diagram for that hybrid battery and try to dig in what's going on and where the short circuit. Unfortunately I found on the eBay just for the regular Escalade not for the hybrid one. If there is someone willing to help with information I would really appreciate it.

Also I would really appreciate with help, by recommending me what should I do with it, is it make sense to keep it???

 

[j91z28d1]

I'm a bit lost, what's going on? you keep blowing up diffs? that's not very common and while the hybrids have the smaller diff option it's the same of the non hybrids I believe. most seem to go 300k without any more than a fluid change.

the P0562 is voltage low at the transmission module inside the tranny. it's on the 12v side of things, book says tranny damage can result from not enough power to operate solenoids correctly. I wouldn't be driving around with that one.. tranny is expensive and hard to find. treat the tranny like gold, you kill it and you will be looking for that Toyota lol

list of things to check from my manaual.
loose or damaged battery terminals on the 12v battery.
loose or corroded connection at the tranny. I believe the main plug is on the driver's side. and I have heard of corrosion. pull off, inspect and clean with contact cleaner.
loose or corroded connection at the accessory power module.(apm) it's under the bottom of the inverter stack on the left side of the engine under that black hybrid cover. don't go poking around in there till you've searched how to deactivate the hybrid battery voltage. it's not as likely as people say to get zapped, these things have more safeties than you can imagine to make sure 300v is isolated from anything before powering up. but it's worth being extra safe anyways. there's a youtube video on how to pull the inverter if needed to check.

this code is most likely not the 300v hybrid system side, since to set this code it needs to see the 12 volt system side greater than 12v while the tranny module sees less than 10v for 5sec.

the P0420 is cat bank one low efficiently. search around that's a pretty common one across all ls engines. could be as simple as a rear o2 sensor bad, an exhaust leak. header bolt broken off, very common also causes the tick you mentioned. or an actual bad cat all the way to afm issues.

I don't believe either of these are 300v hybrid system related. if you're not an apple user, there's a cheap app called torque app you can get for 5$ and a 20$ USB obd port dongle. with some custom pids added, you can see and log the hybrid battery cell voltage to see if it's bad. but any real trouble shooting you will need a few good high end scanner, or a clone tech 2 and some form of shop manual software like prodamand or something else. most have monthly plan access that's not to bad. shop manuals do exist, but where to get them, I don't know. I've seen posts about them, but most of they time they are very expensive. the consumer version of online stuff for shops is usually eaiser to use, but few places less complete. especially with these trucks.


I can usually look up some wiring diagrams if you need them.

 

[j91z28d1]

..

 

[BG1988]

I was directed here from Cadillac forum. Guys suggested me to look here for help.
Long story short.
I got vehicle November last year with 135k miles.
Got issues fixed most of them.
Like all new front end rear original shocks.
New coils, new wires,new spark plugs.
New MAF sensors.
New 12v Battery.
New front end suspension.
New rear springs.
Replaced belt + 2 engine mounts.
All new brakes and rotors.
Replaced oil in 2 diffs, gear box and transfer case, of course in engine too.
Right 1 week after that new rear diff ( old one broke). Month right after that that diff sounded again, Caddy still at AAMCO waiting for new one.
(Maybe I should dump that GM junk, and get myself a Toyota)
I already dumped like 6-7 k in it and it is still broken.
I have a random misfire and clicking noise that comes from gear box at acceleration and deceleration, so whyle Caddy is there I asked them to diagnose and give me information what's wrong with the vehicle. They said everything is fine except for the two codes which are p0562 and p0420. I don't know why, but they relate those codes to the hybrid system. And currently I'm trying to find the dealers repair book for the Cadillac Escalade Hybrid, I want to find the wiring diagram for that hybrid battery and try to dig in what's going on and where the short circuit. Unfortunately I found on the eBay just for the regular Escalade not for the hybrid one. If there is someone willing to help with information I would really appreciate it.

Also I would really appreciate with help, by recommending me what should I do with it, is it make sense to keep it???

check the ground wires there is plenty of them around the SUV.... also look into backed out pins on the XLR connector TCM Transmission Connector Pigtail

don't attempt to push them in it needs to be done correctly

 

[makintoshnex]

I'm a bit lost, what's going on? you keep blowing up diffs? that's not very common and while the hybrids have the smaller diff option it's the same of the non hybrids I believe. most seem to go 300k without any more than a fluid change.

the P0562 is voltage low at the transmission module inside the tranny. it's on the 12v side of things, book says tranny damage can result from not enough power to operate solenoids correctly. I wouldn't be driving around with that one.. tranny is expensive and hard to find. treat the tranny like gold, you kill it and you will be looking for that Toyota lol

list of things to check from my manaual.
loose or damaged battery terminals on the 12v battery.
loose or corroded connection at the tranny. I believe the main plug is on the driver's side. and I have heard of corrosion. pull off, inspect and clean with contact cleaner.
loose or corroded connection at the accessory power module.(apm) it's under the bottom of the inverter stack on the left side of the engine under that black hybrid cover. don't go poking around in there till you've searched how to deactivate the hybrid battery voltage. it's not as likely as people say to get zapped, these things have more safeties than you can imagine to make sure 300v is isolated from anything before powering up. but it's worth being extra safe anyways. there's a youtube video on how to pull the inverter if needed to check.

this code is most likely not the 300v hybrid system side, since to set this code it needs to see the 12 volt system side greater than 12v while the tranny module sees less than 10v for 5sec.

the P0420 is cat bank one low efficiently. search around that's a pretty common one across all ls engines. could be as simple as a rear o2 sensor bad, an exhaust leak. header bolt broken off, very common also causes the tick you mentioned. or an actual bad cat all the way to afm issues.

I don't believe either of these are 300v hybrid system related. if you're not an apple user, there's a cheap app called torque app you can get for 5$ and a 20$ USB obd port dongle. with some custom pids added, you can see and log the hybrid battery cell voltage to see if it's bad. but any real trouble shooting you will need a few good high end scanner, or a clone tech 2 and some form of shop manual software like prodamand or something else. most have monthly plan access that's not to bad. shop manuals do exist, but where to get them, I don't know. I've seen posts about them, but most of they time they are very expensive. the consumer version of online stuff for shops is usually eaiser to use, but few places less complete. especially with these trucks.


I can usually look up some wiring diagrams if you need them.

Long story short. First diff was blown at 135,000, mi. It was replaced under the warranty I had on this vehicle which is expired by now. Company provided wrong diff with wrong reduction ratio so it blow again. Vehicle was towed by insurance company truck to their certified mechanic who managed to take apart and find out that wrong gear ratio was installed so they provided the right diff with the right ratio this time.
I definitely try to wiggle around those wires. The biggest concern for me is the random misfire p0300-00 + I got bunch of different codes since I posted this post.

 

[TollKeeper]

I wonder if its not a AFM/DOD problem.

 

[makintoshnex]

Hi, can you specifically, why it may be related to that???
Is it make sense to get diagnosed at official GM dealership??? The only thing I need to beat to keep this truck is that misfire. I tried to spray brake cleaner around gasket, engine didn't react on that. Can it be fuel pump??? And can I be fuel filter, I saw it on YouTube, but not quite sure if my vehicle has one. I wonder why but AAMCO related that misfire with hybrid system. They could not specify how. Only thing they said is that only dealer service center is allowed to do such job. They called dealership and dealership denied their request for supplying tools and part that were necessary for this job. It sounds like some ******** to me. But who knows.

 

[TollKeeper]

Checking to see if its a AFM/DOD problem is really easy... And free.

Fast forward to the 2:30 mark in this video... If you have the problem shown, either a collapsed lifter, or a AFM/DOD lifter that is frozen.

 

[j91z28d1]

Long story short. First diff was blown at 135,000, mi. It was replaced under the warranty I had on this vehicle which is expired by now. Company provided wrong diff with wrong reduction ratio so it blow again. Vehicle was towed by insurance company truck to their certified mechanic who managed to take apart and find out that wrong gear ratio was installed so they provided the right diff with the right ratio this time.
I definitely try to wiggle around those wires. The biggest concern for me is the random misfire p0300-00 + I got bunch of different codes since I posted this post.

wow that sucks they put the wrong ratio gears in.. that sounds like it would be very ******* the transfer case as well of you drove around in auto setting. in 2wd it might not have been horrible.

as for the missfire. I don't know how much you work on cars, but for the missfires treat it as if it's a normal truck. normally you start with a tune up, check the grounds, there's one on the front of the driver's cyl head that's common issue in all ls engines. also these hybrids have quick release battery terminals.. make. sure they are tight. you shouldn't be able to move them at all by hand when tight. if you can track down which cyl it is that throws the code all the time that is helpful. sadly on all these trucks the afm is worth checking out, of that checks out. then switch coils around to see if the miss fire follows it to the new cyl.

I would agree that a tranny shop is probably not the best place to troubleshoot the engine in general.

honestly the dealer is a crap shoot too. they don't know anything special about these trucks, there's a huge turn over of techs at dealers and they haven't gotten any training on these trucks since probably 2008. and even then they are mostly parts swappers and these trucks need trouble shooters. especially if it's hybrid related stuff. like the afm can't be repaired bit dealers and most shops want to sell you can engine because it's eaiser and more profits for the.
just saying the word hybrid scares most parts swapper techs. so you'll probably be better off finding a smaller shop that isn't scare to work on it and has experience with finding miss fires on ls engines to see if it's ignition related or if it's afm.


these trucks really reward diy mechanics able to work on their own stuff, but if your have to rely on a shop. they will probably bleed your wallet dry and leave you with a still broken truck.

that's a pretty common thread on these boards. dealer swaps a bunch of expensive parts, it's something completely different and the owner ends up trading it off for scrap prices 6 months later. it's a shame really.

 

[j91z28d1]

I wonder if its not a AFM/DOD problem.

it could be.. I recently had a miss in a truck, and after a bit of looking around. I found the spark plug loose, turned like an 8th of a turn. I get it grounds thru the threads, but I've worked on stuff my whole life and never seen that before.

atleast it was a easy fix. haha.

#7 is a afm cyl thou, so that would be the worst case for him.

 

[makintoshnex]

wow that sucks they put the wrong ratio gears in.. that sounds like it would be very ******* the transfer case as well of you drove around in auto setting. in 2wd it might not have been horrible.

as for the missfire. I don't know how much you work on cars, but for the missfires treat it as if it's a normal truck. normally you start with a tune up, check the grounds, there's one on the front of the driver's cyl head that's common issue in all ls engines. also these hybrids have quick release battery terminals.. make. sure they are tight. you shouldn't be able to move them at all by hand when tight. if you can track down which cyl it is that throws the code all the time that is helpful. sadly on all these trucks the afm is worth checking out, of that checks out. then switch coils around to see if the miss fire follows it to the new cyl.

I would agree that a tranny shop is probably not the best place to troubleshoot the engine in general.

honestly the dealer is a crap shoot too. they don't know anything special about these trucks, there's a huge turn over of techs at dealers and they haven't gotten any training on these trucks since probably 2008. and even then they are mostly parts swappers and these trucks need trouble shooters. especially if it's hybrid related stuff. like the afm can't be repaired bit dealers and most shops want to sell you can engine because it's eaiser and more profits for the.
just saying the word hybrid scares most parts swapper techs. so you'll probably be better off finding a smaller shop that isn't scare to work on it and has experience with finding miss fires on ls engines to see if it's ignition related or if it's afm.


these trucks really reward diy mechanics able to work on their own stuff, but if your have to rely on a shop. they will probably bleed your wallet dry and leave you with a still broken truck.

that's a pretty common thread on these boards. dealer swaps a bunch of expensive parts, it's something completely different and the owner ends up trading it off for scrap prices 6 months later. it's a shame really.

I think you're right sir. Well, I didn't have the match of a chance to drive on that wrong gear ratio differential. And the guys from the AAMCO they said that my tranny and gearbox are fine so I don't really worry about. Probably yes, I have that thing with the solenoid because there is a taking clicking sound when you accelerate and decelerate. Unfortunately here in Brooklyn New York we don't have a good mechanics. For instance, I had the issue with Stabilitrack. I went to the shop for the diagnosed. They said I had to replace the whole ABS system. It's going to cost me $2,000. For you to know this is a very good shop with very good reputation and that mechanic took me basically behind the counter escaping the whole line of cars he had. He did me a favor. In order to just apply for a simple inspection for the shop, you have to stay in line for 30 or 40 days. I solved the problem just by a hammer. I had a bad terminals on the positive and negative so I just hammer them down and tighten the screw as much as they could and that's it. No more stability track issue.
If there is someone on this forum for Brooklyn, New York or New York who knows a good mechanic who really I mean really can solve the issue not just taking money and tighten the bolt or something. Please let me know.

 

[j91z28d1]

I've heard about those northern trucks.. seems from watching videos that the connects get corroded up, especially the module that runs the air ride leveling. takes the whole can bus net work down.

sucks about the shops. it's so hard to find good work unless you work in the industry and have friends in the business.

but yeah, if you do a search here outside this hybrid forum, there's a bunch of stuff about ground points. it might be worth checking those especially on trucks driven in the salty roads. I'm lucky to be down south avoiding all that haha

I enjoy watching this guy working on rusty chevy he gets in his shop. his shop is in new York but I have no idea where compared to you.

https://youtube.com/@SouthMainAuto?si=_wqVKj8Kq0F2Lvpu

 

[BG1988]

I think you're right sir. Well, I didn't have the match of a chance to drive on that wrong gear ratio differential. And the guys from the AAMCO they said that my tranny and gearbox are fine so I don't really worry about. Probably yes, I have that thing with the solenoid because there is a taking clicking sound when you accelerate and decelerate. Unfortunately here in Brooklyn New York we don't have a good mechanics. For instance, I had the issue with Stabilitrack. I went to the shop for the diagnosed. They said I had to replace the whole ABS system. It's going to cost me $2,000. For you to know this is a very good shop with very good reputation and that mechanic took me basically behind the counter escaping the whole line of cars he had. He did me a favor. In order to just apply for a simple inspection for the shop, you have to stay in line for 30 or 40 days. I solved the problem just by a hammer. I had a bad terminals on the positive and negative so I just hammer them down and tighten the screw as much as they could and that's it. No more stability track issue.
If there is someone on this forum for Brooklyn, New York or New York who knows a good mechanic who really I mean really can solve the issue not just taking money and tighten the bolt or something. Please let me know.

the Cadillac had the 3.42 ratio

3.08 would be incorrect for it

 

[makintoshnex]

Alright today was really rainy day in Brooklyn. I drove like 2 miles. Vehicle started as usual, light shaking, nothing more. Btw I already ordered new MAF and o2 sensors. I was hoping that that would cure misfire. So I took a trip, hit couple of put holes , parked. After 45 minutes I started the engine, it started to shake like crazy . I looked at exhaust I already saw it was puffing. I hooked up scanner and got codes for 1 and 7. It's not the first time I'm getting those codes. About good 9 months ago I had the same situation. Same rainy day. I bet any managed to get out from the underground parking. I had the same impulses into gearbox, I could not move the vehicle when the engine was idling, neither D or R I felt bangs and vehicle was jumping. I went to shop 2 days after, I was amazed that it started as usual after sitting for some time. Shop diagnostics said faulty 1and 7. So they changed coils. Had it only 2 times since than. I have 2 new original coils. Should I try to do o2 sensors+ MAF+ coils. Or it makes no sense??? And I should better invest in that cylinder deactivation system. Or something is getting wet and this happens???

 

[j91z28d1]

I honestly don't know, unless someone else has delt with this exact issue and found the problem, it's going to be hard to diagnose over the internet.

my first instinct is to say it's a wiring issue of some type. something gets wet passed a seal on a connector or gets into a module. doesn't work then drys out from sitting and works again. could be so many things.

Intermittent electrical issues can be the hardest thing to find, just being able to recreate them is a big help for a tech searching.

the cyl deactivating issues from stuck lifters usually make a pretty loud tapping sound from under the hood. most mechanics know the sound when they hear it, since it's a very common problem across all these years ls engine.

only idea I would have is running it thru a car wash or something and see if I can make it do it to help narrow it down.

 

[makintoshnex]

Just checked vehicle now, still dame thing.
If I'm not mistaken this is right diagram for cylinders

Here Also I shoot short video . Let me know what you think. Unfortunately I can not move it right now. Lucky it is still good to park there till Friday

 

[makintoshnex]

Ok I did some Job, and than my phone died when I was shooting Video. Ok long story short. I replaced 2 MAP sensors 1 MAF, 2 coils 1and 7 ,and new intake filter. Broke top manifold MAP retaining clip. When I pulled out sensor ring was wet , dripping wet. Smelled gasoline, same when I picked out intake filter. How come gas inside intake manifold??? Piston got stuck??? So I solved that thing with puffing engine. Just left with random misfire. Ordered 4 o2 sensors 2 down and 2 up stream. I got codes for them before. Never got codes for MAF and MAP. I uploaded 2 videos on a top. Is there someone who can tell what is that sound engine makes???

 

[j91z28d1]

yeah that pic above is correct for cyl numbering.

the fuel small is a bit concerning. could be a fuel injector leaking, which could cause the miss too if it's bad. how did the spark plugs look coming out of 1 and 7? any black fluffy carbon from being rich?

the basics would be check for spark and do a compression test. but in not really sure how to do a compression test on the hybrid, since they don't have a normal stater. it might be the same, but I think they spin the engine super fast.

a compression test would tell you a lot thou.

 

[makintoshnex]

yeah that pic above is correct for cyl numbering.

the fuel small is a bit concerning. could be a fuel injector leaking, which could cause the miss too if it's bad. how did the spark plugs look coming out of 1 and 7? any black fluffy carbon from being rich?

the basics would be check for spark and do a compression test. but in not really sure how to do a compression test on the hybrid, since they don't have a normal stater. it might be the same, but I think they spin the engine super fast.

a compression test would tell you a lot thou.

I noticed a hissing sound coming from the engine. I tried to wiggle hoses of intake and on intake. Nothing changed, I try to check throttle body, that might be faulty and replace intake manifold gasket. That's not that expensive. According to YouTube mechanics if there be gas on throttle body that is the issue. Because I got gas all down to the intake filter, I saw a small puddle. I drove it today and it was as usual with that light shaking. I will try to get to that spark plugs, but those are not an issue I guess. I replaced all of them and coils too together with wires, that didn't help with random misfire. I think that something might be wrong with throttle. Because then it leaks fuel, that dump that mixture right into driver side cylinders, and when you leave vehicle alone for few days, gas evaporates and it starts as usual. That's might explain that issue, and how it cured itself. Maybe I am wrong but that is the only thing that comes into my mind, now.

 

[j91z28d1]

the throttle body is just a air valve these days.. there's no fuel running to it like the old days.

that's why I was wondering if the spark plugs in those 2 cyl were wet with fuel. that could mean the fuel injectors for those 2 cyl are stuck open a bit. you might look at the fuel pressure on your scanner. it should be 45-50 psi running and when it goes into auto stop, it seems to creep up, I guess from the heat build up. but if you see it falling pretty quickly, you might have a leaky injector.

is it possible what you're seeing is oil? these ls engines without the upgraded oil baffle in the valve cover are known to suck a lot of oil in to the intake. it tends to puddle around places. it's not great for the engine but doesn't normally cause big problems.