My fix for 6L80 trans shift cable bushing

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Overland Disco

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Hello all - I recently had the joyous (!) experience of the seemingly common transmission shift cable bushing failure, at the end of a 1400-mile trip.

It reared its head when I tried to shift into park in the hotel parking lot of our next-to-last night out, in Holbrook AZ. Nothing, nada, zip, zilch. So I put the emergency brake on, turned it off, pulled the key, and checked into our hotel for the night.

Next, I fired up the laptop, logged into AllDataDIY, and saw what looked to be a simple - not necessarily easy - fix.

Back down to the Yukon - I wriggled my arm far enough under to engage park and looped the cable end on the shift arm, had my wife start it, and pulled up onto the curbing so I could crawl underneath - after engaging the E brake and in Park.

The bushing was brittle and broken in half, so I used electrical tape and 2 zip-ties in a figure 8 to secure the shift cable to the trans shift arm.

Went to dinner - wasn't even late!

Searched "6L80 trans shift bushing" on TahoeYukon forum and saw about 800,000 hits, more or less. Copied the Dorman part #, picked it up in Flagstaff the next day as insurance that I wouldn't need it until getting home.

Installed the Dorman bushing, which was noticeably softer than the old one and gently tried to disconnect the shift cable. It came right off with almost no effort - re-installed a zip-tie in a figure 8 and went back to the forums.

Found the Fitzall post, ordered their bushing. Installed it and noticed that it snapped into place on the shift lever groove, but it had a bit too much sideways movement for my liking. I then realized that one of the prongs on the clip had snapped off on installation, so back to researching.

I happen to have a spare shift cable from the LS swap I'm doing on my Land Rover, so I took the shift cable portion to my local hardware store to cook something up.

The first part to figure out was the bushing in the shift cable - I wanted a nylon or other solid plastic that would hold up, but still be a "fusible link" to protect the transmission if something went wrong with the shifter.

20221106_120251.jpg

Here's what I came up with - 1/4" Nylon Flanged Bushing - x2.

Another view with just one in the shift cable eye.

20221106_120259.jpg

Surprisingly, it fit like the proverbial glove.

Next, I wanted to eliminate the chance of being stranded if/when the bushing broke down the road, so I captured the bushings with M8 fender washers.

This is what it looked like at the hardware store -
20221106_121835.jpg

The "ears" sticking out of the washer will be trimmed flush.

Next was finding a suitable bolt that fit snugly inside the flanged bushings - 1/4 x 20 bolt worked just fine.

So, back at the workshop I removed the spare shift lever from the LS swap transmission - the swap is still in progress, so it wasn't being used - and removed the shift lever nub and drilled to fit the 1/4x20 bolt.
20221106_133715.jpg

I didn't have access to a welder, so I used Original JB Weld on the bolt head and threads going through the shift lever.

Once cured and test fitted, it looked good.
20221107_090450.jpg

Continued on next post...
 
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Overland Disco

Overland Disco

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Next was to swap the shift levers and install the bushings and washers. This is what the Fitzall bushing looked like, next to the updated captive bushing.


20221107_092340.jpg

After swapping shift levers, I used red LockTite on the threads.

20221107_093424.jpg

I've installed a deep trans pan, so had to slightly adjust the lever to avoid contacting the pan. I thought the clearance to the driveshaft would be less, but there is plenty of room.

All in all, the cost was less than $7.00 and my time, but I'm confident that this won't leave me stranded like the other bushings. I bought two sets of bushings - the spare set is in a labeled ziplock in the glove box.

The shifter feels much more precise and less loose - after a couple of thousand miles of daily driving, everything is stable.
 
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I'd also use a nylock nut instead of red loctite. If the bushing goes out and you gotta switch it out it won't need to be heated or such a PITA to remove the nut.

Or drill a hole through bolt and use a castle nut with a cotter pin.
 

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Wes
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Looking at your photo's it appears you might have used the wrong Fitzall bushing (why it broke), for reference the one I used is T74498-1A
it's been installed for a while now and when I was under the truck about 2 weeks ago it's holding up just fine.
I have modified my fitzall with a washer and a cotter pin, since I had already drilled the pin on the shift lever from a previous attempted fix
 

Joseph Garcia

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Next was to swap the shift levers and install the bushings and washers. This is what the Fitzall bushing looked like, next to the updated captive bushing.


View attachment 385276

After swapping shift levers, I used red LockTite on the threads.

View attachment 385277

I've installed a deep trans pan, so had to slightly adjust the lever to avoid contacting the pan. I thought the clearance to the driveshaft would be less, but there is plenty of room.

All in all, the cost was less than $7.00 and my time, but I'm confident that this won't leave me stranded like the other bushings. I bought two sets of bushings - the spare set is in a labeled ziplock in the glove box.

The shifter feels much more precise and less loose - after a couple of thousand miles of daily driving, everything is stable.
Thank you for sharing your solution with us. Much appreciated.

The Forum's collective knowledge base has been increased.
 
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Overland Disco

Overland Disco

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Looking at your photo's it appears you might have used the wrong Fitzall bushing (why it broke), for reference the one I used is T74498-1A
it's been installed for a while now and when I was under the truck about 2 weeks ago it's holding up just fine.
I have modified my fitzall with a washer and a cotter pin, since I had already drilled the pin on the shift lever from a previous attempted fix
I was wondering that as well, but the info showed the T74498-1A as being for a shift cable that is 3/8" wide, and mine is 1/4" wide. It fit well and the shift cable eye was secure, but it might have broken due to the cold weather as well.
 
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Overland Disco

Overland Disco

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I'd also use a nylock nut instead of red loctite. If the bushing goes out and you gotta switch it out it won't need to be heated or such a PITA to remove the nut.

Or drill a hole through bolt and use a castle nut with a cotter pin.
I agree, after looking at it again I would use a nylock nut, but was concerned with the clearance to the driveshaft.
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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I was wondering that as well, but the info showed the T74498-1A as being for a shift cable that is 3/8" wide, and mine is 1/4" wide. It fit well and the shift cable eye was secure, but it might have broken due to the cold weather as well.
I disregarded the cable end size and went with the type of lever used which is a "ball", I initially got one that was the wrong lever type and even though it "fit" it would not stay on
 

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