Making my Yukon XL into an Urban Assault Vehicle

[TheAutumnWind]

I would go 2" body and keys for an extra inch or so or maybe a 3" body with 305-65 tires it will ook tough but not hurt mpg or performance too much but which ever way you get your 3-4" of lift i wouldnt go bigger than. 305 (33") tire

2" body and 3" keys will hurt MPG exactly the same as a 5" suspension lift, assuming the same tires.

---------- Post added at 08:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:36 AM ----------

Legit laughing out loud. But yea thats fine by me.

My question with a key lift, which can probably be answered by google but you guys might be more knowledgable, is...

Am I just cranking the Torsion bars? is that what the key is for? or does the key go in and make the torsion bar itself higher? I'm just a little lost on exactly how it all works. Thanks guys

Aftermarket keys basically just crank the torsion bars beyond the height that you can crank them with the stock keys yes. So you are trading some droop for a greater static height and uptravel. You also effectively increase the spring rate a bit.

 

[hotdog.]

I'm not looking for a teenage angst "LOOK HOW SMALL MY WEINER IS" truck, just to be clear.

I'm really looking for "beastly" without going overboard.

I think I've decided to go key lift, and if I cant get the height out of it that I want then I'll add a little body lift to it as well. At the end of the day, I might even get a 6" in a year or two just for fun, but for now keys and body.

I found a truck that looks exactly like what I want this to look like, do you guys think I could achieve the height from keys and a body? I will have a similar color scheme as well actually.

So definite things I will be running:
Keys+Spacers
33's
16's or 18's I'm really not sure


MY LAST QUESTION ABOUT KEYS:
Really, what will this do the durability of my truck? and how hard will the ride be with 2.5-3 inches of key lift? I feel as though that might be pushing them to the max and I dont want a miserable ride just for a few extra inches.

I want to do the key lift RIGHT in every aspect because I know that if you only add keys you can cause some serious issues. So please, tell me the extra parts (shocks, springs, etc) that I will need to buy to make this thing feel like stock but perform with the extra height.

Thanks guys! this has been a great help so far!

picture of the dream vehicle:

 

[TheAutumnWind]

I'm not looking for a teenage angst "LOOK HOW SMALL MY WEINER IS" truck, just to be clear.

I'm really looking for "beastly" without going overboard.

I think I've decided to go key lift, and if I cant get the height out of it that I want then I'll add a little body lift to it as well. At the end of the day, I might even get a 6" in a year or two just for fun, but for now keys and body.

I found a truck that looks exactly like what I want this to look like, do you guys think I could achieve the height from keys and a body? I will have a similar color scheme as well actually.

So definite things I will be running:
Keys+Spacers
33's
16's or 18's I'm really not sure


MY LAST QUESTION ABOUT KEYS:
Really, what will this do the durability of my truck? and how hard will the ride be with 2.5-3 inches of key lift? I feel as though that might be pushing them to the max and I dont want a miserable ride just for a few extra inches.

I want to do the key lift RIGHT in every aspect because I know that if you only add keys you can cause some serious issues. So please, tell me the extra parts (shocks, springs, etc) that I will need to buy to make this thing feel like stock but perform with the extra height.

Thanks guys! this has been a great help so far!

picture of the dream vehicle:

I don't have keys, but the general consensus is that 2.5" of key lift rides pretty good. I would install z71 rear springs and a 1.5" spacer(should be about 2" rear lift). Exactly like this thread: http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69900

z71 springs are a bit stiffer and taller so the front and rear will be more balanced spring rate wise.

This should give you plenty of height for a look similar to that picture.

I am planning on the (bigger) NNBS front brake upgrade, so I wouldn't go smaller than 17" wheels. Jeep JK's come stock with 17" wheels so there are plenty of tire options in that size.

 

[yates ™]

The ride isn't really the issue when cranking the torsion bars or using different keys, though it is the most noticeable to the person, the real problem is the stretch and strain it puts on all the components. To adjust the front level things out I would say you're safe but past that (not sure exactly how far) I would look at something with a diff drop.

Here is pictures of the CV angles on a 2.5" lift achieved using aftermarket keys and cranking. No bueno.

 

[hotdog.]

So I was doing some research and figured out I have the zw7 smooth ride vs the auto ride.


Also, could I put a 2" in the rear and then add z71 coils?

Are there alternatives to the z71's with similar stiffness? $100 a coil is pushing me towards a real suspension lift....

I think I would add bilstein shocks as well, just for good measure.

---------- Post added at 12:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:41 PM ----------

I would look at something with a diff drop.

I'm not sure what this means, but I'm very interested to find out

 

[yates ™]

The reason why suspension kits are expensive (well most anyways) is that they include a differential drop, when the diff is dropped equally with the lift you're achieving your angles will stay flatish which will help with longevity. The next portion to look into is if you're lifting high enough that your control arms have enough travel, if not you will want a kit that includes spindles. There are many other areas that need addressed but it really depends on what size lift you have.

Main thing is do not look for the cheapest lift you can find as they usually will be missing one or many of the main components needed, also do not buy the most expensive just because of price but rather read as many reviews as you can find from as many different sources.

---------- Post added at 11:52 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:50 AM ----------

As a point of reference, even though I know this is a lot more lift than you want, it will show you that with a properly setup suspension flat angles can be achieved with 11-12" of lift and 40" tires.

 

[hotdog.]

The reason why suspension kits are expensive (well most anyways) is that they include a differential drop, when the diff is dropped equally with the lift you're achieving your angles will stay flatish which will help with longevity. The next portion to look into is if you're lifting high enough that your control arms have enough travel, if not you will want a kit that includes spindles. There are many other areas that need addressed but it really depends on what size lift you have.

Main thing is do not look for the cheapest lift you can find as they usually will be missing one or many of the main components needed, also do not buy the most expensive but rather read as many reviews as you can find from as many different sources.

Ok, I get that. This is a 4wd and I was reading that spindles dont exist for 4wd.

Frankly I'm looking to be sitting pretty between 3 and 4 inches. Do you really think a differential drop would be necessary at that height?


Also, I'm going to ask this question again cause no one really answered it. If I found a 3" suspension lift for the Yukon XL, could I then crank torsion keys a little bit for an extra bit of height?

Thanks guys

 

[yates ™]

Ok, I get that. This is a 4wd and I was reading that spindles dont exist for 4wd.

Frankly I'm looking to be sitting pretty between 3 and 4 inches. Do you really think a differential drop would be necessary at that height?


Also, I'm going to ask this question again cause no one really answered it. If I found a 3" suspension lift for the Yukon XL, could I then crank torsion keys a little bit for an extra bit of height?

Thanks guys

For sure a differential drop is necessary. As for is it available? I honestly have never researched them but I have heard many go to a 6" lift due to having trouble finding a properly setup lift kit in the range you're looking for. Usually you would be better off decranking a larger lift a little bit than to over crank a smaller lift.

If you look at the picture I posted of the cranked truck you will see if was needed on the 2.5" crank so would necessary on 3-4".

 

[rabbiporkchop]

Whats up guys, I have recently come into possession of a 2003 Yukon XL 1500 and I want to make it a little more interesting. De-soccer mom it if you will.

I am a total noob when it comes to this stuff, but I have a solid idea of what I'm looking for. I want this thing to be mean looking. Unfortunately I have to hold off on any real performance mods outside of lift/tires/suspension.

I basically want to know what you guys would do if you were to do this.

This is a truck that will be getting a lot of highway and city use, but I want it to be capable of getting off road when the time comes. Rugged is a word I would use.

I was thinking a 4 inch lift with 35's and then tackle spacing problems later, but I want to know what you guys would do!

I was also wondering what brand of lifts are higher quality than others because, like I said, I am super new to this stuff. I will be updating as the project comes along but thanks in advance!

A pic of the beast

Solid axle swap that beast!

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Ok, I get that. This is a 4wd and I was reading that spindles dont exist for 4wd.

Frankly I'm looking to be sitting pretty between 3 and 4 inches. Do you really think a differential drop would be necessary at that height?


Also, I'm going to ask this question again cause no one really answered it. If I found a 3" suspension lift for the Yukon XL, could I then crank torsion keys a little bit for an extra bit of height?

Thanks guys

If you want to be above 2.5" lift in the front yeah you should be looking for something with a diff drop.