Loose steering wheel on 2001 Tahoe

[LanceLyons]

I am working on my sons 2001 tahoe trying to fix a loose steering wheel. To be clear, the steering is not loose but the steering wheel is lose. There is plenty of play in all directions and can pull out about a half inch. After pulling off the steering wheel, I see another shaft that is about 5-6 inches long that connects to a longer shaft that goes down the distance of the steering column. This 5-6 inch shaft seems to have alot of play. I am thinking there is some worn out bearing or perhaps he hit the steering wheel and broke something that he isnt sure of. Any guidance or advice would be appreciated.

We are trying to find out why we have so much play. Also the steering column bearing near the floor board seems tight with limited play.

I have attached a video to show the play.

 

[Matahoe]

Looks like you need a new upper bearing. However you are more than likely going to need a lower and intermediate shaft as well if they have never been replaced. The only advice I can give is to disassemble to inspect each shaft and bearing section and replace whats worn as you go.

 

[LanceLyons]

Looks like you need a new upper bearing. However you are more than likely going to need a lower and intermediate shaft as well if they have never been replaced. The only advice I can give is to disassemble to inspect each shaft and bearing section and replace whats worn as you go.

I have tried to find any references to upper steering column bearing but don't see much. I can't even tell how to take off the airbag coil to see how to disassemble. Any ideas there?

 

[Matahoe]

Alldatadiy.com or eautorepair.net would have the kind of information you are looking for. A chiltons manual more than likely wont go that in depth. The proceedure I am talking about here (removing and disassembling steering column) can be somewhat involved. It may be better off to just replace the entire column with one from a junk yard. See parts 11-15 for reference to an upper column bearing. There is no standalone label entitled "bearing" but it is implied. See the item called "Upper Bearing Inner Race Seat".




1 - Upper Trim Cover
2 - Lower Trim Cover
3 - Shift Lever Seal
4 - Shift Lever Screw
5 - Shift Lever
6 - Flanged Prevailing Torque Nut
7 - Retaining Ring
8 - SIR Coil
9 - SIR Coil and Harness Assembly
10 - Wave Washer
11 - Bearing Retainer
12 - Cam Orientation Plate
13 - Turn Signal Cancel Cam Assembly
14 - Upper Bearing Spring
15 - Upper Bearing Inner Race Seat
16 - Inner Race
17 - Turn Signal Switch Housing
18 - TORX® Head Screw
19 - Pan Head Tapping Screws
20 - Ignition Lock Cylinder Case Assembly
21 - Pan Head Tapping Screw
22 - Ignition Switch Assembly
23 - Pan Head Tapping Screws
24 - Turn Signal and Multifunction Switch Assembly
25 - Axial Position Assurance Connector
26 - Steering Column Tilt Head Assembly
27 - Spring Guide
28 - Tilt Spring
29 - Release Lever Pin
30 - Bearing Assembly
31 - Steering Column Shaft Assembly
32 - Pan Head Tapping Screws
33 - Tilt Knob
34 - Oval Head Soc Tap Screws
35 - Linear Shift Assembly
36 - TORX® Head Screws
37 - Pivot Pins
38 - Steering Column Support Assembly
39 -
40 - Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Control
41 - Adapter and Bearing Assembly
42 - Steering Wheel Position Sensor Assembly
43 - Sensor Retainer
44 - Hexagon Head Nut
45 - Intermediate Shaft
46 - Bolt and Retainer Assembly

 

[LanceLyons]

Thanks your information is very helpful. I have not been able to spend a ton of time on this but have it down to the inner outer race and bearing. There is very little play when the inner race is forced in. I wonder if the spring and inner race seat retainer are not doing their job to keep the inner race tight. This retainer is bent a bit from the spring and this could be the difference. The bearings look fine and I am hesitant to go into them. Any thoughts from anybody that has done this?

 

[LanceLyons]

Ok we finally found out what was causing the issue and turned out being the Upper Bearing Inner Race Seat. The seat is used with the spring to apply pressure to the inner race on the bearing. This seat had compressed a bit allowing the inner race to come out some causing the play. In our case the cancel cam assembly was also cracked. We did not have to change the inner race or bearing which come as a set. Spent $20.00 on a lock plate removal tool from o'Reillys. $33 on the cancel cam assembly, $14 on the race seat and i replaced the bearing retainer o ring for $10.00.

The steering wheel is now very solid with no play at all.

Thanks for the help and guidance.