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swathdiver

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No benefit to going to something like an airaid, then?
You up for taking her down the quarter mile drags? We were supposed to go yesterday but my wife was not feeling well. We're going to run both trucks on the 11th or 18th, lots of stuff going on at Moroso, err, Palm Beach International Raceway right now. Be good to get a baseline before you start changing things.
 

intheburbs

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No benefit to going to something like an airaid, then?

Leave the filter box alone. The Air Raid intake tube is allegedly 'proven' to add a few HP. Literally, like 2-3. You won't feel the difference. To me, the juice just isn't worth the squeeze ($175). Makes it sound cool, though.

Fastest/easiest way to significantly wake it up is a tune. After that, I'd start looking at hardware upgrades - exhaust/headers, cam, forced induction, etc.

CAFE has forced the manufacturers to squeeze every cheap efficiency trick into modern engines. There are no shortcuts nowadays.
 

Geotrash

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Leave the filter box alone. The Air Raid intake tube is allegedly 'proven' to add a few HP. Literally, like 2-3. You won't feel the difference. To me, the juice just isn't worth the squeeze ($175). Makes it sound cool, though.

Fastest/easiest way to significantly wake it up is a tune. After that, I'd start looking at hardware upgrades - exhaust/headers, cam, forced induction, etc.

CAFE has forced the manufacturers to squeeze every cheap efficiency trick into modern engines. There are no shortcuts nowadays.
+1. If I’d have had more time when I responded before, this is exactly what I would have said.
 
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mpicasso

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You up for taking her down the quarter mile drags? We were supposed to go yesterday but my wife was not feeling well. We're going to run both trucks on the 11th or 18th, lots of stuff going on at Moroso, err, Palm Beach International Raceway right now. Be good to get a baseline before you start changing things.
Well, it is back to the drawing board for me. Customer service and relationships are a big deal and something I did not have, during this purchase.
Sadly, the list is extensive. Had been there earlier in the week and price was finalized. Went in Sunday thinking I would only have to sit with the financing guy and sign paperwork (waiting on a check from CU, so had asked for a flatbed delivery once they were paid). After almost 2 hours, I still had not made it to the finance office.
Frustrated and having other obligations, I said I would be back Thursday. On the road home, I called the salesperson, and said I think I am going to pass. His response, "OK, well, we have not charged your card for the deposit yet, so you are good"...nothing more.
Car was over my budget by almost $1K, not including warranty, so already on the fence. But with a 1.49% interest rate, as opposed to the 5-6% I expected, I was willing to at least have considerations. Customer service is what broke this deal for me. I have messaged the GM and awaiting a response. Not sure what is going to happen but looking at other options, including just cleaning up my '04 'hoe (probably going back to looking for a '09-14 Esky Platinum).
 
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mpicasso

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Took some time off to confirm what I want/need.
Looked at 2018-2020 Tundra's but carry a large dog crate and portable fridge/freezer. Though not all of the time, enough that I cannot justify a truck, right now.
Went back to looking at '05-06 Tahoes, for reliability, but struggle to find one with service records, without massive amounts of rust, and around $10-11K, or less. Did locate a 2005, under $11K, with 145K miles, that I am considering.

That said, I do like creature comforts and a comfortable ride (minimum distance will be 100 miles, up to 3K round trip). Decided to considering a 2012-2014 Tahoe LTZ or Yukon. Leaning towards the Yukon because of the 6.2 being available (it is a large SUV, for working purposes...not overly concerned with gas mileage).

Would consider a 2017-2019 Tahoe but nervous about their reliability history and getting parts. Seems like things got better in '16 and up but prices also get significantly higher...not wanting to spend $40K+ on a non-daily driven vehicle.

1) would someone comment why they would take an '05 Tahoe over say a '12 Tahoe? Seems a no-brainer to me, with auto-ride, safety features, etc. Price is round $8K difference, so at this level, not a factor for me. Looks is preferential and this is a "working" vehicle...and fairly fine with either style (do like the looks of older style better but focus is on comfort, handling, safety, etc.)

2) for what I am doing, I do believe the AWD on Yukon will be fine. Only "concern" will be some softer patches of dirt or boat ramps. So in my head, it makes sense to go with the Yukon Denali over Tahoe LTZ but help me set this idea to rest, one way or another. Why should I buy Denali over LTZ, or vice versa? Do want 4WD or AWD, for pulling a boat on somewhat slippery ramps.

Thanks in advance!!!
 
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Geotrash

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Took some time off to confirm what I want/need.
Looked at 2018-2020 Tundra's but carry a large dog crate and portable fridge/freezer. Though not all of the time, enough that I cannot justify a truck, right now.
Went back to looking at '05-06 Tahoes, for reliability, but struggle to find one with service records, without massive amounts of rust, and around $10-11K, or less. Did locate a 2005, under $11K, with 145K miles, that I am considering.

That said, I do like creature comforts and a comfortable ride (minimum distance will be 100 miles, up to 3K round trip). Decided to considering a 2012-2014 Tahoe LTZ or Yukon. Leaning towards the Yukon because of the 6.2 being available (it is a large SUV, for working purposes...not overly concerned with gas mileage).

Would consider a 2017-2019 Tahoe but nervous about their reliability history and getting parts. Seems like things got better in '16 and up but prices also get significantly higher...not wanting to spend $40K+ on a non-daily driven vehicle.

1) would someone comment why they would take an '05 Tahoe over say a '12 Tahoe? Seems a no-brainer to me, with auto-ride, safety features, etc. Price is round $8K difference, so at this level, not a factor for me. Looks is preferential and this is a "working" vehicle...and fairly fine with either style (do like the looks of older style better but focus is on comfort, handling, safety, etc.)

2) for what I am doing, I do believe the AWD on Yukon will be fine. Only "concern" will be some softer patches of dirt or boat ramps. So in my head, it makes sense to go with the Yukon Denali over Tahoe LTZ but help me set this idea to rest, one way or another. Why should I buy Denali over LTZ, or vice versa? Do want 4WD or AWD, for pulling a boat on somewhat slippery ramps.

Thanks in advance!!!
I think you're over-thinking it :p

I faced the exact same set of decisions when it was time to replace my '02 Suburban and landed on a '12 XL Denali. Very happy with my choice. Side note: I thought the Suburban was near the end of its life with 230K on it, but I sold it to a buddy who has since put another 80K trouble-free miles on it. Lol.

I like the AWD, and I like the 6.2 so much I would never be happy with a 5.3 again. And the AWD is competent off-road. Last December I pulled our camper out of a mud pit of a campsite in West Virginia, and the AWD was key. Once that G80 rear diff locked up, it pulled like a D6 Cat. I'd also rather have AWD on a boat ramp than have the 4WD actuator choose that moment to let me down.

If you get an '06, yes they're reliable, but you're going to have a whole heap of age-related things start coming due. Bushings, body mounts, rear heater lines, brake lines, etc that you won't have yet with a newer vehicle. And my '12 has been rock solid reliable too.
 
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mpicasso

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I think you're over-thinking it :p

I faced the exact same set of decisions when it was time to replace my '02 Suburban and landed on a '12 XL Denali. Very happy with my choice. Side note: I thought the Suburban was near the end of its life with 230K on it, but I sold it to a buddy who has since put another 80K trouble-free miles on it. Lol.

I like the AWD, and I like the 6.2 so much I would never be happy with a 5.3 again. And the AWD is competent off-road. Last December I pulled our camper out of a mud pit of a campsite in West Virginia, and the AWD was key. Once that G80 rear diff locked up, it pulled like a D6 Cat. I'd also rather have AWD on a boat ramp than have the 4WD actuator choose that moment to let me down.

If you get an '06, yes they're reliable, but you're going to have a whole heap of age-related things start coming due. Bushings, body mounts, rear heater lines, brake lines, etc that you won't have yet with a newer vehicle. And my '12 has been rock s

I think you're over-thinking it :p

I faced the exact same set of decisions when it was time to replace my '02 Suburban and landed on a '12 XL Denali. Very happy with my choice. Side note: I thought the Suburban was near the end of its life with 230K on it, but I sold it to a buddy who has since put another 80K trouble-free miles on it. Lol.

I like the AWD, and I like the 6.2 so much I would never be happy with a 5.3 again. And the AWD is competent off-road. Last December I pulled our camper out of a mud pit of a campsite in West Virginia, and the AWD was key. Once that G80 rear diff locked up, it pulled like a D6 Cat. I'd also rather have AWD on a boat ramp than have the 4WD actuator choose that moment to let me down.

If you get an '06, yes they're reliable, but you're going to have a whole heap of age-related things start coming due. Bushings, body mounts, rear heater lines, brake lines, etc that you won't have yet with a newer vehicle. And my '12 has been rock solid reliable too.
I probably am. The '05 I saw was very nice looking (garage kept), at a 140K miles, decent service records, 1 owner, no accidents, and around $11K.
2012-2014 Tahoes around here are from $20-30K, depending on where one is looking, mileage typically under 100K. So the frugal side of me looks at the $11K vehicle and says, let's save the $10+K. The realistic side says, let's go with the better, quieter ride and spend the little extra.
Ultimately, I am confirming the ride/drive upgrade from '02 to '12 is worth the extra $10K, all else aside.
 
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