Long time lurker / First time poster needs to pick your brains on my 13 Tahoe

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tgwhit12

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Hey guys,
I apologize if this is redundant, but I cannot find the answer on here and I need someone who may have a different idea. In the last couple of years, I've bought two of the PPV vehicles. The second I bought cheaply, but I've put a lot of time and some money into it to make it my every day driver. I'll list these things in case it may help answer your questions. It was a 211,500 mile sheriff Tahoe in AR. I paid $2,200 for it and it now has:
Factory warrantied GM 6.0 w/ 4,000 miles on it that came from a Hybrid that was replaced under warranty
Brand new GM 6L80 factory reman tranny
New / junkyard interior, seats and console
new carpet
new bumpers - front and rear
68,000 mile rear end from a Yukon with 3:42 and an G-80 locker
All interior stripped except for dash, cleaned every piece of metal, all the plastic, removed headliner, cleaned it and the underside of roof, cleaned up all the non factory wires and rolled them up into bundles and hid them, removed carpet and underlayment and cleaned all of it, cleaned and vacuumed all the door sill valleys and removed any aftermarket wires loose or stuff non factory.
Installed new stereo and 4 new speakers.
New door panels
KYB shocks and struts
New Weathertech floor liners
New switches (from junkyard)
DIC from eBay
New Dash cover
New Rack & Pinion
New Rotors and Pads
New GM Power Steering Pump
New GM 20" factory black 5 spokes and new Cooper Discoverer tires
Removed A pillars, B pillars and D pillars, also the rear wheel well covers and seat belt covers. Cleaned everything there.
New GM wiper motor
New GM factory headlights and used GM taillights
New GM door weatherstrip and new GM leather steering wheel.

Now, my problem. You can tell that this has taken a while from the list, but during the entire task everything came together and worked / works nearly perfectly with one exception. I CANNOT figure out how to make my remote looks work. Because of that, I also CANNOT program get my TPMS monitors (4 new GM monitors) to acknowledge the truck. I've done everything I can think of from the beginning. When I first started driving her (Plata is her name, she's silver in color and if you don't speak Spanish, plata is Spanish for silver.) I tried programming her with the dash reset buttons, no go. I bought a DIC and plugged it in, no go. I took it to a programmer twice and the truck showed that it was receiving signal from the remote fob, the computer would lock and unlock the doors, but the FOB still would not. Recently, I bought the Dorman unit off of eBay and programmed new FOBs and the install went exactly as the instructions implied, they beeping after each FOB, but when I finished the key FOB still will not activate the door locks and you therefore cannot program the TPMS monitors.
I took it to a GM mechanic at a dealership, he came outside and I gave him $50 bucks. He went through everything and said it should work from a program standpoint, but the FOB still will not. He speculated that I needed a new remote door lock module that mounts on the D pillar. I pulled the plastic replaced it with a new GM module and nothing.
I'm at the end of my rope. The truck with the 6.0L and suspension is an absolute beast and I love it, but these last two items, (actually, there's one more - reverse lights won't work either) Key Fobs and TPMS monitors are disheartening.
If you have any ideas or experience, I'd really appreciate the help. You guys are great and knowledgeable. I'm slightly embarrassed to admit that I've been a diehard Ford guy all my life until I found out recently how easy GM vehicles are to work on and the availability or the V-8s it too much to pass up. These Tahoes are awesome and fun to drive.
Thank you in advance for any help! Sorry for the length of the post.

tgwhit12
 

RichardCranium

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From what I've seen/read for others with the same issue, the remote fob function and the TPMS do both go through the remote door lock receiver. You need to find what fuses/relays power the circuit that module rides on, I am not sure if they are labeled/fused individually or not. Being you've replaced the module already, I would assume you have checked fuses/relays already, but just in case. What you really need is someone with a Tech2, or see if your connection at the dealership can get into that module and verify it is talking to the body module as it should.
 

swathdiver

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He speculated that I needed a new remote door lock module that mounts on the D pillar. I pulled the plastic replaced it with a new GM module and nothing.
A new RCDLR must be programmed to your vehicle. The dealership can do this or you can do it yourself with a subscription to ACDelco's TDS system and the right programmer.
 
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tgwhit12

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Guys, thank you so much! That is great information. Pardon my ignorance, but is RCDLR you're referring to a Remote-?-Door-Lock-Receiver; is that the remote door lock module that I replaced on the D pillar? Are you saying that I need to have it programmed to the Tahoe specifically?
 

RichardCranium

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Guys, thank you so much! That is great information. Pardon my ignorance, but is RCDLR you're referring to a Remote-?-Door-Lock-Receiver; is that the remote door lock module that I replaced on the D pillar? Are you saying that I need to have it programmed to the Tahoe specifically?
Yup, that is what he is meaning here.
 

Docky50

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My fobs won't program at all. The programmer tried everything and nothing.
 

Doubeleive

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I will take a stab and say "maybe" the remote locks are disabled by the ppv/ssv BCM ? easy enough and not too costly to get another bcm programmed to the vin and see what happens. otherwise you will need to troubleshoot that the d pillar module is communicating and that there is a signal from it to the locks. must be a break in there one side or the other before the module or after.
one thing to check and verify is RPO codes the .mhz of the system it's going to be (xl7->315mhz or xl8->433mhz) and everything has to match. RPO codes are in the glovebox
as for reverse lights do you have a reverse signal at the trailer connector?
a tech2 is what you need so you can do all this stuff yourself and not be paying the money out each time you want to do something.
 
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tgwhit12

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Guys, thank you to all! Swathdiver fixed my problem; ;he was right. The d pillar remote door lock receiver which I had replaced did need to be reprogrammed to the vehicle. All three FOBs are working perfectly.
Thanks again and a special thanks to @swathdiver.
 
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alpha_omega

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It’s nice to see guys come here for questions, they receive answers and then actually reply back with an update.
I’m glad things are working well for you now. Seems you’ve definitely put some sweat equity into ole Plata. Any future repairs or upgrades planned?
Are you still running DoD? Do you know if the trans cooler was upgraded when the new Tranny was added?
 

blackelky

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Did you have to replace front diff with 3.42 gears as well or just the rear. I'd like to 3.42s or 4.10s eventually the 3.08s that are in here are ungodly slow for acceleration
 

Sithlord

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Guys, thank you to all! Swathdiver fixed my problem; ;he was right. The d pillar remote door lock receiver which I had replaced did need to be reprogrammed to the vehicle. All three FOBs are working perfectly.
Thanks again and a special thanks to @swathdiver.
Did you get the TPMS to work? My FOBS work but none of my TPMS sensors register
 

waveryd

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Were the TPMS sensors programmed to the vehicle?
 

mbrandon656

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I'm also dealing with this issue...2012 tahoe. I bought a new RCDLR have to find someone with a tech2 scanner to program it as I'm sure the snap on appolo won't let me do it. But I have 1 other thing going on that made me think it might be something diff. My driver's side heated seat works intermittent. Then I seen the post about the wiring in the driver's door jam. Now I'm wondering if I should trace wires and test for power at that receiver before I try to program a new one
 

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