wbsilver38
TYF Newbie
Anyone know and easy to install 2-3" lift kit for a 99 yukon?
lift kit
- Thread starter wbsilver38
- Start date
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How mechanical are you? a body lift is about is easy as is comes and cheapest.
howhoecanyougo
TYF Newbie
"Easy" and "Cheap" should never be in the same sentence when dealing with something you drive...dont risk your safety because you didnt have enough money to have it done right..
If you are not mechanical, save your cash and have a reputable person install a kit for you.
An "inexpensive" way to lift would be lift blocks and a torsion key crank in the front. Again, do it right the first time and research the proper way to install.
If you are not mechanical, save your cash and have a reputable person install a kit for you.
An "inexpensive" way to lift would be lift blocks and a torsion key crank in the front. Again, do it right the first time and research the proper way to install.
But if you get 3" out of your keys your an idiot and your truck will hate you. Nothing wrong with a body lift. Sorry if the terminology is not what you like to hear. A body lift is a low cost, best bang for the buck lift. That in conjunction with a keyy crank and a small block will yield a nice little lift.
howhoecanyougo
TYF Newbie
Ive put 20K plus on my truck with 3" blocks and a level crank with NO problem at all, these leaf springs sag over time, you dont have to get 3" of crank in the keys, its more like 2"-not a problem. Years of alignment experience here. Take a brand new truck and crank it all the way to the crossmember and you have trouble, you will never "0" the alignment out-eat through some rubber. I am simply saying, bodylift only is a cosmetic difference.
a body lift serves a purpose...it keeps the factory feeling ride while allowing for a larger tire and or different offset wheel to be run.
Cranking to level without adding a block takes almost 1.5" of crank due to the factory rake of these trucks. I know the springs sag...a lot. I put a 6" spring on my truck and got 8" out of it from where my old springs had sagged too. Cranking also puts more stress on ball joints and steering components...I never said anyhting about alignment other than to get one after you crank.
Cranking to level without adding a block takes almost 1.5" of crank due to the factory rake of these trucks. I know the springs sag...a lot. I put a 6" spring on my truck and got 8" out of it from where my old springs had sagged too. Cranking also puts more stress on ball joints and steering components...I never said anyhting about alignment other than to get one after you crank.
howhoecanyougo
TYF Newbie
and i didnt say you said anything about alignment, this is his question. Is this cyber-attitude? my god brother.
then what does your years of alignment have to do with a body lift?
And btw: if you crank a brand new stock truck to the cross member, it is nothing like cranking an OBS. The OBS truck are set up to allow cranking way too far, the NBS and NNBS truck require differently indexed keys to allow foranything above about 1.5" IIRC.
Just saying....
And btw: if you crank a brand new stock truck to the cross member, it is nothing like cranking an OBS. The OBS truck are set up to allow cranking way too far, the NBS and NNBS truck require differently indexed keys to allow foranything above about 1.5" IIRC.
Just saying....
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howhoecanyougo
TYF Newbie
no comment
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Dlong30
Member
wbsilver, don't let howhoe scare you away from body lifts... what you should take from this is you can get up to 2" from a torsion key crank, 3" from a body lift, and up to 5" if you do them both, just make sure to get an alignment after messing with torsion keys. If you look at my pics, i have a 3 inch body in them. i will also be doing a crank in the next week or so and ill post pics when im done. hope this helps. Good luck!
