Let’s talk steering differences....

[Shibbershabber]

Here’s the situation

I have a 94 Silverado 2500, a 2002 Tahoe and now a 1999 Yukon

All three have a different feel with their steering.

I get it on the 02, it’s different all around.


My 94 has been my daily driver for a while and even with 220k the steering is nice and tight. To my knowledge there has been no front end work on it at least since 100k.... by the looks of it, I’d say it’s all original.

Now, my 99 Yukon is loose, only at the wheel, there is nothing loose or clunking down below, I also replaced the tie rod assemblies yesterday.... no play, just no resistance at all..... feels like the PS on an old Ford.


Another example... on my 94, While in a turn if I let go of the wheel the truck will straighten out on its own more or less.
In the 99 if I let go of the wheel in a turn it will just keep turning if not turn tighter.


Looking at the components, the systems look identical but they couldn’t feel more different.

I feel like I could do a slalom course in my 94, but I don’t feel stable in the 99 driving through the neighborhood.


So... is there something to this or are all of these this way?

If it is supposed to be this light, what is the difference, mechanically, from my 94?

 

[drakon543]

your 94 is s 2500 so it should have the hd steering parts. very similar just beefier parts. your 99 sounds like it has a loose steering shaft. lift the cover up on the steering shaft coming through the firewall and check for play at the joint and such. you mentioned the 2002 but your only comment was its different all around so im not sure where to go with that. also your 99 check the pitman and idler arms. if everything else is tight but those are starting to get loose it might feel tight at the wheels but not at the steering wheel. lower the front skid plate and have someone else turn the wheel left to right and look for any amount of play there.

 

[Toomanyhobbies]

This is what I am going to try in order to increase steering effort (after a lot of research)

http://billshotrodcompany.com/17022.html

Part #1001




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[TigerEyz3]

2002 is rack and pinion - completely different tech than the 94 and 99.

Both 1994 and 1999 have pitman/idler setups. The potential difference is most likely in the column and under the dash, though ball joint and tie rod condition play parts:

• 1994 is old school tech - no computer assist and it's a 3/4 ton...may have universal joint coupling.
  
• 1999 has EVO (computer assist) and has a rag joint coupler (which has to be replaced periodically).

Toomanyhobbies.... that flow valve is part of the change I was referencing with the EVO system. When I changed out my power steering pump and gear, I opted for the 1997 (non-EVO) setup... the high-pressure hose has some different bends in it compared to the 1999, so be mindful of that when changing your valve.

 

[Toomanyhobbies]

2002 is rack and pinion - completely different tech than the 94 and 99.

Both 1994 and 1999 have pitman/idler setups. The potential difference is most likely in the column and under the dash, though ball joint and tie rod condition play parts:

• 1994 is old school tech - no computer assist and it's a 3/4 ton...may have universal joint coupling.
  
• 1999 has EVO (computer assist) and has a rag joint coupler (which has to be replaced periodically).

Toomanyhobbies.... that flow valve is part of the change I was referencing with the EVO system. When I changed out my power steering pump and gear, I opted for the 1997 (non-EVO) setup... the high-pressure hose has some different bends in it compared to the 1999, so be mindful of that when changing your valve.

Thanks. Can you elaborate on how the different bends affect the valve or how many shims I add? I am thinking 3. I want to reduce power assist by about 40%.



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[TigerEyz3]

The bends I'm referring to are purely due to attachment depth/location. The valve/spring may play into that, but I don't have any specifics upon which to elaborate. Compare the power steering pumps and high pressure hoses between the 1997 and 1999 models and you'll see the difference is obvious.

 

[Shibbershabber]

have any of you done the EVO Sensor on the steering column?

if so, how did it change things?

 

[TigerEyz3]

If you replace the valve/power steering pump, the part on the column is effectively disabled.
This is the setup/configuration my truck is in currently - EVO is effectively neutralized.

 

[scotto0609]

have any of you done the EVO Sensor on the steering column?

if so, how did it change things?

I did it on my 99 sub and was impressed with the difference. Truck would kinda hook on off ramps and generally wonder around. Was told the whole front needed rebuilding soooo spent 15 minutes and I believe 20 bucks and am very happy. Good luck

 

[Shibbershabber]

Well...........

I replaced the sensor on the steering column, dont know where you all got them so cheap, but I couldnt get one for less than $60. Anyhow, it made no noticeable difference at all... still on the spaghetti noodle steering.

Noticing some uneven tire wear, I thought I might need an alignment... I have read the misaligned wheels can cause jerky steering....


Went for an alignment... shop tells me that they cant because my front end is all jacked up and they would be happy to replace all the parts for about $1000..............

I was skeptical... I got the vibe that they were trying to hose me.... but I bought the parts anyway since they were cheap enough and I can do the work over a weekend......

So, inner/outer tie rods with sleeves, upper and lower ball joints, upper control arm bushings, idler arm and bracket and a pitman arm! I also replaced all 4 shocks and did my front sway bar bushings and end links.......

Feels NO different... though a lit tighter going over the big speed bumps in my neighborhood.


Whatever, at least its all new. I dropped it off at a different alignment shop, it will be done tomorrow. I can only hope that is the cause. Because... I cant imagine what else it could be.


From all that I have read, it seems like any failure in the rest of the speed sensitive steering system would result if stiffer, more difficult steering.

 

[TigerEyz3]

Almost what you said, "stiffer MORE CONSISTENT steering" is the result of removing the EVO system.

 

[Shibbershabber]

what is involved im removing the system?

simply unplugging it?
replace with non-evo PS pump?

 

[TigerEyz3]

I replaced the PS pump...

• The valving is a bit different than the EVO pump
• High pressure hose has different bends (use the 1997 pressure hose)

You can, of course, unplug/remove the EVO sensor under the dash (I didn't fool with it... figured if there's nothing to receive/use the signal, no point in messing with it). I could be wrong about that, but my steering has been consistent since I've made the switch.

 

[Shibbershabber]

If correcting the alignment doesnt get it right, Ill unplug the sensor and see if that changes anything

 

[east302]

Pretty sure that unplugging it will default it to full boost mode which is probably not what you’re going for.

To delete it, they sell a 60-something dollar “bypass” kit which is nothing more than a bent line with fittings to align with the EVO-type hose. Some have, instead, opted for a pre-EVO pump and hoses.


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[Shibbershabber]

Well, I picked it up from the shop and the readings for the alignment were WAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYY off...

Major corrections to just about every measurement.

Steering feels a lot better..... Ill have to drive it around some more before I decide to delete the EVO........ we'll see

 

[TigerEyz3]

Glad you got it worked out...
I actually reread your initial post on this thread and "I replaced tie-rod ends" stood out. Immediately my mind went back to when I replaced my tie-rod ends and connectors... it was a mess!

Couldn't drive it down the street, let alone out of the neighborhood! I had replaced mine while it was on ramps rather than completely having the front-end suspended. After suspending the front end, I was able to clearly see what the problem was and fix it so that I could at least safely drive to get an alignment.

Getting your alignment fixed will have a far greater/noticeable difference in your driving experience than deleting EVO.

 

[Toomanyhobbies]

After reading up on this site and others I decided I am going to remove my rag joint with a U joint that I ordered. It is from sweet manufacturing I believe. I will post the part number later and will report back when it's done. I read that the GMT800 on does not have a rag joint and this can make a night and day difference from what my research says.


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[Shibbershabber]

The wheels still lock in the turn...

For example, you know those freeway on/off ramps that are nearly full circles??? I can actually let go of the wheel and it will continue to follow the curve...
Or if I turned fully to one side and put it in gear, it would drive in a circle all on its own.

Out of over 40 crappy old cars I've had, never once have I experienced this.

Everything in the front steering and suspension has been replaced (well, except steering gear and lower CA bushings), two alignment shops have looked at it, the last one confident enough to do the alignment.

Anyone else have to this?

 

[east302]

It may be in the steering gear then. There’s a screw on top that is turned to improve the return to center, but I believe that’s something that has to be set while comparing torque readings on either the input or output shaft...and I don’t think that those are the proper names for them. In other words, it can mess things up if it isn’t done right.

Sorry, that’s not much help but maybe someone else could elaborate.

Some other possibilities...

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