Left-Front Suspension Popping

[gmartin1215]

I have a 2009 Tahoe LT with 4WD with 140K miles. This vehicle also has a 2" ReadyLift leveling kit (spacer on top of coil-over).

I also posted in the Engine and Drivetrain forum, but I am looking for more opinions and this forum is more about suspensions.

I have been getting a popping or thumping sound coming from the driver-side front area that usually happens when the wheels are turned to go right. I don't get this all the time, but I have heard happen when I am backing out of my sloped driveway and turning the truck to get on the street. I also have heard it pop when turning right into a parking space. I also have heard it doing this sound backing out of my garage after it has set, and I maybe changed the steering a little. It's not constant, it will just make this popping sound and not do it again until next time.

I did jack up the front end and checked for any play in the wheel by grabbing at 12 and 6, and 3 and 9 and I did not get any so I think it's not my ball joints. I checked the sway bar links on both sides and they are both tight and the links are not broken. I also checked the left front tie rod end to see if there is any play by grabbing and trying to see if it would move and I did not have any, nor did I see any sign of wear.

I did have the left CV axel replaced because the old one had a torn boot, so I am beginning to suspect that it's the problem. The part I replaced the old one with is an ACDelco 22789359 which is the same as my old part. I did struggle some putting the hub nut from the old axel on to this new one - the threads were tighter and had a hard time getting the nut to turn. I did not cross thread because I was able to back it off and see if there was any thread damage and then retested the not on the old axel to verify I did not trash the nut. I did get the not to set, but it was a struggle with my impact wrench. However, I do seem to recall getting a similar sound before I replaced the axel, but it's been a while I may be recalling something else.

I am half tempted to put the old CV axel back on to see if the problem goes away, but as you know, that is a lot of work.

With the sway bar links totally disconnected and then a test drive, I am still getting that popping sound. So it's definitely not the sway bar links.

Got a video of the popping sound. You can hear at about 0:47, 1:47, and 2:30

In the video, I am not hearing anything from the CV axel while it's turning, so I am suspecting that it is not guilty of the popping sound. But, I am not sure.

I lifted the Tahoe by the left lower control arm and did the 12 to 6 wobble on the tire. There is a little play going on, and you can hear a thumping sound when the tire is moved in the 12 to 6. I got another video of the upper ball joint with some help from a helper.

I also did the pry bar under the tire with a helper, and I could not really see a lot of play. I will try to get a video later.

Right now, I am stuck trying to find out the cause of this sound and don't want to go down the route of replacing parts until I am more positive about the root cause.

Given what I have described, would you suspect it's the ball joints that are giving off this sound? If not, then what do you think might be the cause and where I should do further inspection?

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@gmartin1215 In the first video is that CV axle new? at 1:49 the axle looks pretty stressed I am wondering if that axle is the problem.

Also when my lower ball joint went bad it just had a little bit of play in it but as soon as I got it removed from the Tahoe I could see that it was really bad.

 

[gmartin1215]

@gmartin1215 In the first video is that CV axle new? at 1:49 the axle looks pretty stressed I am wondering if that axle is the problem.

Also when my lower ball joint went bad it just had a little bit of play in it but as soon as I got it removed from the Tahoe I could see that it was really bad.

The axel is new. At first, I thought it might be the problem, but the sound does not happen all the time. Been half tempted to put the old axel back in - even though it has a torn boot - just to see if the sound goes away. But, a lot of work to do that swap, then swap again with the new one or another new one.

BTW...the road in front of my house goes uphill, and my driveway dips down, so the Tahoe articulates some when I turn into the driveway (at about 1:50). The right front tire is still on the uphill, and the left front starts going the downslope of the driveway. Maybe this explains the angle of the axel?

 

[Dustin Jackson]

The axel is new. At first, I thought it might be the problem, but the sound does not happen all the time. Been half tempted to put the old axel back in - even though it has a torn boot - just to see if the sound goes away. But, a lot of work to do that swap, then swap again with the new one or another new one.

BTW...the road in front of my house goes uphill, and my driveway dips down, so the Tahoe articulates some when I turn into the driveway (at about 1:50). The right front tire is still on the uphill, and the left front starts going the downslope of the driveway. Maybe this explains the angle of the axel?

If they are the original ball joints then it might be a good time to replace the entire upper and lower control arms. I agree, from your evidence it isn't clear which part is causing the sound but I do think its the ball joint.

 

[swathdiver]

I did struggle some putting the hub nut from the old axel on to this new one - the threads were tighter and had a hard time getting the nut to turn.

You're not supposed to re-use the original hub/spindle nuts and the new ones must be torqued properly or the hubs will prematurely fail. Stock nut is 35mm, Dorman is 36mm.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

You're not supposed to re-use the original hub/spindle nuts and the new ones must be torqued properly or the hubs will prematurely fail. Stock nut is 35mm, Dorman is 36mm.

@swathdiver I thought that was a myth? I remember being told here that you can run 4wd Hubs without CV axles.

 

[gmartin1215]

You're not supposed to re-use the original hub/spindle nuts and the new ones must be torqued properly or the hubs will prematurely fail. Stock nut is 35mm, Dorman is 36mm.

Thanks. I put an ACDelco on and not a Dorman.

Here is the one I purchased...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B13WZJO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But, let's say that the nut was wrong and I did not get it seated and torqued correctly. Would a failed hub make that popping sound I have noted in my first video?

 

[swathdiver]

@swathdiver I thought that was a myth? I remember being told here that you can run 4wd Hubs without CV axles.

Well, that is a separate issue. When that guy converted his to RWD, he used a hub if memory serves that is not available anymore. The other day I happened to catch a video by Precision Transmissions on youtube where they took a CV axle apart so the customer could run RWD with his 4x4 hubs until such time as the differential could be rebuilt.

Thanks. I put an ACDelco on and not a Dorman.

Here is the one I purchased...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B13WZJO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But, let's say that the nut was wrong and I did not get it seated and torqued correctly. Would a failed hub make that popping sound I have noted in my first video?

I am talking about the nut and washer, not the whole shaft. It has to be torqued to 177 foot pounds and must be new or you risk hub failure. I do not think that it is the source your noises Glenn. If I hadn't commented on that already, I would triple check the lower control arm bushings, the bushings in the brackets that secure the differential to the frame and the two bushings for the rack and pinion.

 

[gmartin1215]

I am talking about the nut and washer, not the whole shaft. It has to be torqued to 177 foot pounds and must be new or you risk hub failure. I do not think that it is the source of your noises Glenn. If I hadn't commented on that already, I would triple check the lower control arm bushings, the bushings in the brackets that secure the differential to the frame, and the two bushings for the rack and pinion.

Thanks, James.

When I got the replacement axel, I assumed the nut from the old one would work since it was the same Genuine GM ACDelco part as the old one (same number). I will replace that nut soon but baffled why the nut would not work well since the axels were supposedly the same. Lesson learned.

I am going to take a better look at the other areas you noted. Maybe take a pry bar to the LCA where it's connected to the frame and see if there is any play. For the R&P bushings, I'll get underneath and have someone turn the wheels back and forth to see if there is any play, not sure how else to check these. On the diff mounts, if those were bad wouldn't I hear a thump every time I accelerated forward or back? My sound only seems to happen when I turn the wheels. Not sure how to check if the diff mount bushings are worn.

 

[exp500]

gmartin1215- If you are that unsure of your diagnostic results, take it to a shop for an inspection. It shouldn't cost much even if you plan on doing the work. Try to find a small independant shop that will show you the results. They may offer many tips to assist you in your project. If they do it for free, tip them $35 and they will remember you and make themselves available for your next dilemma.

Lastly, posting the same question in multiple posts is kinda against the rules, clutters the postings. Good luck and report back your results.

 

[swathdiver]

Thanks, James.

When I got the replacement axel, I assumed the nut from the old one would work since it was the same Genuine GM ACDelco part as the old one (same number). I will replace that nut soon but baffled why the nut would not work well since the axels were supposedly the same. Lesson learned.

I am going to take a better look at the other areas you noted. Maybe take a pry bar to the LCA where it's connected to the frame and see if there is any play. For the R&P bushings, I'll get underneath and have someone turn the wheels back and forth to see if there is any play, not sure how else to check these. On the diff mounts, if those were bad wouldn't I hear a thump every time I accelerated forward or back? My sound only seems to happen when I turn the wheels. Not sure how to check if the diff mount bushings are worn.

It's not that the nuts don't work, it's that they are one time use only. Like Torque To Yield head bolts.

 

[gmartin1215]

If they are the original ball joints then it might be a good time to replace the entire upper and lower control arms. I agree, from your evidence it isn't clear which part is causing the sound but I do think its the ball joint.

Thanks. I am wondering the same, too.
Yeah, these are the original ball joints. With 140k on them, I probably will change these out. I have been looking to replace the UCAs anyway for the lift I want to do eventually. However, I really want to source out the sound before throwing a lot of action this way in case it is not the ball joints.

 

[gmartin1215]

It's not that the nuts don't work, it's that they are one time use only. Like Torque To Yield head bolts.

Thanks. Yeah, that makes sense. I am going to replace it.

 

[gmartin1215]

I checked the rack and pinion today. I did not get any popping sound, but I did see something and need opinions.

I turned the wheel from lock to lock and videoed the movement of the rack and pinion shaft.
How much play should there be? Is mine moving too much?

 

[Dustin Jackson]

I checked the rack and pinion today. I did not get any popping sound, but I did see something and need opinions.

I turned the wheel from lock to lock and videoed the movement of the rack and pinion shaft.
How much play should there be? Is mine moving too much?

@gmartin1215 That is moving too much, I have the same problem right now so lucky for you I've done a bit of leg work already to find a solution. Here is a link to a post of mine with some good reading material and then I will give you links to the parts I bought and an explanation of my plan:

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/lifted-steering-setup.122856/

With that in mine I decided to go with this polyurethane kit which addressed both sides of the steering rack, The larger passenger side bushing and then parts to help stuff the driver side bushings as well. I don't have the desire to push new bushings into my rack so that is why I am going with that kit.

I also purchased a 1 inch coil spacer that I plan on shoving between the steering rack and the frame to further prevent it from moving. The spacer is rather hard but I will trim it down to fit and that should be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F1X2PBB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078WJFKH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[gmartin1215]

@gmartin1215 That is moving too much, I have the same problem right now so lucky for you I've done a bit of leg work already to find a solution. Here is a link to a post of mine with some good reading material and then I will give you links to the parts I bought and an explanation of my plan:

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/lifted-steering-setup.122856/

With that in mine I decided to go with this polyurethane kit which addressed both sides of the steering rack, The larger passenger side bushing and then parts to help stuff the driver side bushings as well. I don't have the desire to push new bushings into my rack so that is why I am going with that kit.

I also purchased a 1 inch coil spacer that I plan on shoving between the steering rack and the frame to further prevent it from moving. The spacer is rather hard but I will trim it down to fit and that should be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F1X2PBB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078WJFKH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks, Dustin!
Great information!

I thought I was seeing too much play, so thanks for your confirmation. The steering always felt fine to me while driving and did not feel like it was loose or clunky, so I had not a reason to look at it until I started to investigate the popping sound. Still don't know if it is the root cause of my popping sound, but this is definitely something to add to the list of problems. Looks like I am going to have to do a whole front-end suspension rebuild.

I thought I was going to try to put a lift in this year, but that will have to wait until I get this other stuff done.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Thanks, Dustin!
Great information!

I thought I was seeing too much play, so thanks for your confirmation. The steering always felt fine to me while driving and did not feel like it was loose or clunky, so I had not a reason to look at it until I started to investigate the popping sound. Still don't know if it is the root cause of my popping sound, but this is definitely something to add to the list of problems. Looks like I am going to have to do a whole front-end suspension rebuild.

I thought I was going to try to put a lift in this year, but that will have to wait until I get this other stuff done.

@gmartin1215 Mine is tight but after my lift I noticed that if I hit a bump dead on then I would get a rattle/clunk that I could feel through the steering wheel, but if I hit a bump or dip with the wheel slightly turned like I’m applying a bit of pressure the steering rack when I get almost no clunk so I do think it’s the bushings. Besides that the steering is dead tight and has no play. This is an 08 with 160,000 miles

 

[gmartin1215]

@gmartin1215 Mine is tight but after my lift I noticed that if I hit a bump dead on then I would get a rattle/clunk that I could feel through the steering wheel, but if I hit a bump or dip with the wheel slightly turned like I’m applying a bit of pressure the steering rack when I get almost no clunk so I do think it’s the bushings. Besides that the steering is dead tight and has no play. This is an 08 with 160,000 miles

Thanks, Dustin.

 

[Marshall 008]

OP, just because I found this out by trial and error. Check and see what size thread pitch your CV axle nuts are. OEM appears to be M24x2.0 where I have seen many replacement CV’s come with M24x1.5. Don’t know why the change but it out there.
I installed trakmotive CV’s for the stronger boot and found the axle nut is M24x1.5. I later had to replace the hub and found the new axle nut that came with the Mevotech Titan hub came with it was M24x2.0. I ended up re-using the old axle nut but only until I can find replacement. Who would have thought this was as difficult. Not many people make this size and staked.

 

[The Raven]

I can't believe I haven't seen this thread until now. I have the exact same issue on my Tahoe. I installed a Rancho RS9000XL coilover set on my truck in 2019. At the same time I completely replaced all other suspension components. New Moog UCAs, LCAs, ball joints, sway bar end links and bushings, outer tie rods, Caster/Camber plates, and even new Powerstop brakes. Ever since i've had the same "pop" sound on the left front sometimes when i'm backing out of my driveway and turning. Since all those suspension components were brand new, it seems I can eliminate those as problems. I replaced the CV axles about six months later and that didn't help anything. I've had the dealer look at it twice and both times I got the "cannot replicate issue" verdict and a nice little bill so that didn't help either.

I do have a theory on the source of the noise though, in my case. On one occasion I happened to be standing at the front left corner of the truck when my wife was backing it out of the driveway, and it happened to make the noise. I wasn't looking exactly at the right spot when it happened, but i'm pretty sure I saw the backside caster/camber plate "skip" when I heard the noise. I did re-torque the bolt but a few days later heard the pop again. I've exhausted all my ideas on this one so I just live with it - I even mounted a GoPro in the wheel well to watch the plate while driving the truck but the noise never happens when I have the camera running (of course). I got so frustrated with it I figured one solution would be to just buy a dash cam and permanently mount it in there so it runs whenever the truck is running - I mean the noise never happens while it's being watched so if it's always being watched...anyway the truck is going in for new tires and an alignment in a few weeks so I was just going to ask the dealer to put a couple drops of loctite on the caster/camber bolts to see if that does it.

That's all i've got at this time. Hope maybe it can help us figure out a solution.