Left-Front Suspension Popping

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gmartin1215

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I have a 2009 Tahoe LT with 4WD with 140K miles. This vehicle also has a 2" ReadyLift leveling kit (spacer on top of coil-over).

I also posted in the Engine and Drivetrain forum, but I am looking for more opinions and this forum is more about suspensions.

I have been getting a popping or thumping sound coming from the driver-side front area that usually happens when the wheels are turned to go right. I don't get this all the time, but I have heard happen when I am backing out of my sloped driveway and turning the truck to get on the street. I also have heard it pop when turning right into a parking space. I also have heard it doing this sound backing out of my garage after it has set, and I maybe changed the steering a little. It's not constant, it will just make this popping sound and not do it again until next time.

I did jack up the front end and checked for any play in the wheel by grabbing at 12 and 6, and 3 and 9 and I did not get any so I think it's not my ball joints. I checked the sway bar links on both sides and they are both tight and the links are not broken. I also checked the left front tie rod end to see if there is any play by grabbing and trying to see if it would move and I did not have any, nor did I see any sign of wear.

I did have the left CV axel replaced because the old one had a torn boot, so I am beginning to suspect that it's the problem. The part I replaced the old one with is an ACDelco 22789359 which is the same as my old part. I did struggle some putting the hub nut from the old axel on to this new one - the threads were tighter and had a hard time getting the nut to turn. I did not cross thread because I was able to back it off and see if there was any thread damage and then retested the not on the old axel to verify I did not trash the nut. I did get the not to set, but it was a struggle with my impact wrench. However, I do seem to recall getting a similar sound before I replaced the axel, but it's been a while I may be recalling something else.

I am half tempted to put the old CV axel back on to see if the problem goes away, but as you know, that is a lot of work.

With the sway bar links totally disconnected and then a test drive, I am still getting that popping sound. So it's definitely not the sway bar links.

Got a video of the popping sound. You can hear at about 0:47, 1:47, and 2:30

In the video, I am not hearing anything from the CV axel while it's turning, so I am suspecting that it is not guilty of the popping sound. But, I am not sure.

I lifted the Tahoe by the left lower control arm and did the 12 to 6 wobble on the tire. There is a little play going on, and you can hear a thumping sound when the tire is moved in the 12 to 6. I got another video of the upper ball joint with some help from a helper.

I also did the pry bar under the tire with a helper, and I could not really see a lot of play. I will try to get a video later.

Right now, I am stuck trying to find out the cause of this sound and don't want to go down the route of replacing parts until I am more positive about the root cause.

Given what I have described, would you suspect it's the ball joints that are giving off this sound? If not, then what do you think might be the cause and where I should do further inspection?
 

Dustin Jackson

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@gmartin1215 In the first video is that CV axle new? at 1:49 the axle looks pretty stressed I am wondering if that axle is the problem.

Also when my lower ball joint went bad it just had a little bit of play in it but as soon as I got it removed from the Tahoe I could see that it was really bad.
 
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gmartin1215

gmartin1215

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@gmartin1215 In the first video is that CV axle new? at 1:49 the axle looks pretty stressed I am wondering if that axle is the problem.

Also when my lower ball joint went bad it just had a little bit of play in it but as soon as I got it removed from the Tahoe I could see that it was really bad.

The axel is new. At first, I thought it might be the problem, but the sound does not happen all the time. Been half tempted to put the old axel back in - even though it has a torn boot - just to see if the sound goes away. But, a lot of work to do that swap, then swap again with the new one or another new one.

BTW...the road in front of my house goes uphill, and my driveway dips down, so the Tahoe articulates some when I turn into the driveway (at about 1:50). The right front tire is still on the uphill, and the left front starts going the downslope of the driveway. Maybe this explains the angle of the axel?
 
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Dustin Jackson

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The axel is new. At first, I thought it might be the problem, but the sound does not happen all the time. Been half tempted to put the old axel back in - even though it has a torn boot - just to see if the sound goes away. But, a lot of work to do that swap, then swap again with the new one or another new one.

BTW...the road in front of my house goes uphill, and my driveway dips down, so the Tahoe articulates some when I turn into the driveway (at about 1:50). The right front tire is still on the uphill, and the left front starts going the downslope of the driveway. Maybe this explains the angle of the axel?
If they are the original ball joints then it might be a good time to replace the entire upper and lower control arms. I agree, from your evidence it isn't clear which part is causing the sound but I do think its the ball joint.
 

swathdiver

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I did struggle some putting the hub nut from the old axel on to this new one - the threads were tighter and had a hard time getting the nut to turn.

You're not supposed to re-use the original hub/spindle nuts and the new ones must be torqued properly or the hubs will prematurely fail. Stock nut is 35mm, Dorman is 36mm.
 

Dustin Jackson

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You're not supposed to re-use the original hub/spindle nuts and the new ones must be torqued properly or the hubs will prematurely fail. Stock nut is 35mm, Dorman is 36mm.
@swathdiver I thought that was a myth? I remember being told here that you can run 4wd Hubs without CV axles.
 
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gmartin1215

gmartin1215

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You're not supposed to re-use the original hub/spindle nuts and the new ones must be torqued properly or the hubs will prematurely fail. Stock nut is 35mm, Dorman is 36mm.
Thanks. I put an ACDelco on and not a Dorman.

Here is the one I purchased...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B13WZJO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But, let's say that the nut was wrong and I did not get it seated and torqued correctly. Would a failed hub make that popping sound I have noted in my first video?
 
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swathdiver

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@swathdiver I thought that was a myth? I remember being told here that you can run 4wd Hubs without CV axles.

Well, that is a separate issue. When that guy converted his to RWD, he used a hub if memory serves that is not available anymore. The other day I happened to catch a video by Precision Transmissions on youtube where they took a CV axle apart so the customer could run RWD with his 4x4 hubs until such time as the differential could be rebuilt.

Thanks. I put an ACDelco on and not a Dorman.

Here is the one I purchased...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B13WZJO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But, let's say that the nut was wrong and I did not get it seated and torqued correctly. Would a failed hub make that popping sound I have noted in my first video?

I am talking about the nut and washer, not the whole shaft. It has to be torqued to 177 foot pounds and must be new or you risk hub failure. I do not think that it is the source your noises Glenn. If I hadn't commented on that already, I would triple check the lower control arm bushings, the bushings in the brackets that secure the differential to the frame and the two bushings for the rack and pinion.
 
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gmartin1215

gmartin1215

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I am talking about the nut and washer, not the whole shaft. It has to be torqued to 177 foot pounds and must be new or you risk hub failure. I do not think that it is the source of your noises Glenn. If I hadn't commented on that already, I would triple check the lower control arm bushings, the bushings in the brackets that secure the differential to the frame, and the two bushings for the rack and pinion.

Thanks, James.

When I got the replacement axel, I assumed the nut from the old one would work since it was the same Genuine GM ACDelco part as the old one (same number). I will replace that nut soon but baffled why the nut would not work well since the axels were supposedly the same. Lesson learned.

I am going to take a better look at the other areas you noted. Maybe take a pry bar to the LCA where it's connected to the frame and see if there is any play. For the R&P bushings, I'll get underneath and have someone turn the wheels back and forth to see if there is any play, not sure how else to check these. On the diff mounts, if those were bad wouldn't I hear a thump every time I accelerated forward or back? My sound only seems to happen when I turn the wheels. Not sure how to check if the diff mount bushings are worn.
 

exp500

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gmartin1215- If you are that unsure of your diagnostic results, take it to a shop for an inspection. It shouldn't cost much even if you plan on doing the work. Try to find a small independant shop that will show you the results. They may offer many tips to assist you in your project. If they do it for free, tip them $35 and they will remember you and make themselves available for your next dilemma.

Lastly, posting the same question in multiple posts is kinda against the rules, clutters the postings. Good luck and report back your results.
 

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