Leaking Transmission lines to the radiator!

[lamerem]

I have a 2011 Tahoe LT 4WD. Noticed some leaking around the crimp on the lines from the transmission to the radiator. I could replace them for $80 but I'd like a more permanent fix. It is just a bad design, I don't like the crimps. I have seen where a fellow cut the hard line right before the crimp, took a flaring tool, flared the two ends. Then he slid a piece of trans cooler rubber hose with two hose clamps on each side.

Is this a good fix, will it hold that pressure? I assume the flare acts as a slip stop for the hose and clamps. What does everyone think? Anyone employ this method?

 

[ezdaar]

You can get brand new, pre flared 4" long ends with the ferrel nut for like 2$ then use a pipe cutter to cut of old messed up end aprox 5" back.
Then use a 4" reinforced rubber line and 4 hose clamps to repair it.

Or you can back the original ferrel nut off. Pull the flared tube out of radiator.
Use 2k grit paper and polish up the flared end to make it re seal.

Many ways to skin a cat.

 

[lamerem]

Oh do you mean a piece of hard line with a hose barb on one end and a nut on the other? Then just put a male end on the other portion and flare it. I could use brake ling fittings, they withstand a heck of a lot more pressure than the transmission cooler lines. This is a fantastic idea, I will start investigating parts and cost. I would think this would be a permanent fix as there would be no crimps, just hard connections and hose clamps.

 

[ezdaar]

Lets simplify this.

Cut hard line with pipe cutter. This is important as it does not produces metal shavings.
Extend it with rubber line to one of these thats screwed into radiator.
Use teflon tape to seal the threads.
Use 4 hose clamps, 2 side by side on the trans hard line and two on the barbed fitting, to ensure a Solid seal and the hose wot slip off the trans hard line.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d....oap?ck=Search_N0940_-1_-1&pt=N0940&ppt=C0377

 

[lamerem]

Decent idea, but I'm not sure I want to constantly stress the rubber hose into bending at the radiator. Could lead to further issues down the road. But I could probably use that fitting on both ends of the rubber hose. Then have the corresponding female fittings on each side of the trans line.

---------- Post added at 03:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:43 PM ----------

What I mean by bending is as the hose ages it could kink at the bend since its no pre-bent like a radiator hose. Therefor, if I just replace the rubber that's there now it would be straight with no bends.

 

[ezdaar]

long hose with easy smooth bend, NP.

Short hose with sharp bend, problem..

I have done this fix MANY times, with no problems.

 

[lamerem]

Do you think the flare on the original line with clamps will be enough to keep it from blowing off at 75 mph?

 

[ezdaar]

most defiantly.

 

[lamerem]

Sounds like a great project!

 

[ezdaar]

If your at all concerned, secure the rubber line to anything you can with a zip tie. to keep it from vibrating as badly. But I never concerned myself with it.

 

[lamerem]

Being my Wife's daily driver/kid taxi I would never hear the end of it should it blow off, lol.

 

[ezdaar]

then make sure to get proper size hose, so that it fits tight and slide it atleast 4" onto the hardline.
Separate the 2 clamps by 1.5".
that will give alot of surface tension and spread the clamping force out more.

 

[lamerem]

excellent idea, this is the fix I do believe.

 

[TowGMC]

New line is $80? Plug and play. My lines are original- 6 years old, 93,000 miles- and no seepage at all. I would never hose clamp anything that's under pressure.

 

[1BADI5]

Being my Wife's daily driver/kid taxi I would never hear the end of it should it blow off, lol.

This is the reason why i replaced the line with a new OEM line......yeah its a bit of a PITA to do, but its done right.

** I also took the couple extra minute to do the trans service(all new fluid and filter)

 

[lamerem]

I think for the trouble I'll just order the OEM lines.