Keyless Entry & TPMS both stopped working?

[R_Sharpe]

Hi all, It's been a while since I've posted, but I've still be lurking around a bit. Last week was a terrible week for my Tahoe, considering the windshield cracked, the left headlight went out, the right tail light went out, and on top of that, my keyless entry & TPMS both stopped working. Windshield and lights are easy fixes, (other than having to take the entire front bumper off to fix the headlight), but I'm concerned about the keyless entry & TPMS. I went to the park last week to run, whenever I initially exited the truck, I locked it with my key fob, no issue, but when I stopped for a water break about 30-45 minutes later, the key fob wouldn't work. I got mad about it but figured that the battery had went dead, even though it's a 3 month old Escalade key fob. So I continued on, and when it came time to leave, I started the truck, only to see my DIC freaking out saying that I needed to Service TPMS. It seems like these two issues are probably related, being that they both happened at the same time. When I got home, I tried both of my spare key fobs to make sure it wasn't just the battery in the remote, but they didn't work either. When I try to "Relearn Remote Key" in the DIC, when I hold the button down, instead of it popping up "Relearning Active" it just blinks once then says "Relearn Remote Key" again... Has anyone else had this issue before, and if so, what's the fix for it? I'm really hoping that someone has some insight here... I read part of a post the other night on it saying that it may be the BCM?

 

[GTPprix]

Rcdlr died

 

[R_Sharpe]

Rcdlr died

What's that? Is it simple to fix, like can I just replace it?

---------- Post added at 03:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:38 PM ----------

Update: I googled "2007 Tahoe Rcdlr" and came across the TSB which advised GM Tech to pull the fuse associated with the Rcdlr (fuse: DSM in the left cavity of the instrument panel) and reinstall, which I did, now everything is working fine again.

The TSB states that the Rcdlr goes to sleep and doesn't come back on with the vehicle like it should, so my question is, will this happen again, or is there actually a fix for it now? Can GM reflash the computer with an update or something?

Thank you Chris for putting me on the right track

 

[GM Customer Service]

Hello R_Sharpe,

I am sorry to hear that you are experiencing an issue with your vehicle. I understand that you are looking for technical advice on how to resolve this yourself. I might not be able to provide you any technical advice but I would be happy to look into this concern for you. Please contact me via private message if I can be of any assistance.

Jennifer T.
GM Customer Care

 

[GTPprix]

What's that? Is it simple to fix, like can I just replace it?

---------- Post added at 03:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:38 PM ----------

Update: I googled "2007 Tahoe Rcdlr" and came across the TSB which advised GM Tech to pull the fuse associated with the Rcdlr (fuse: DSM in the left cavity of the instrument panel) and reinstall, which I did, now everything is working fine again.

The TSB states that the Rcdlr goes to sleep and doesn't come back on with the vehicle like it should, so my question is, will this happen again, or is there actually a fix for it now? Can GM reflash the computer with an update or something?

Thank you Chris for putting me on the right track

Post your vin I'll check and send if there is a software update for it

 

[R_Sharpe]

Post your vin I'll check and send if there is a software update for it

PM'd

 

[bacin87]

Similar issue but mine was TPMS and Remote Start

I had a similar issue does anyone know of a fix?

 

[R_Sharpe]

I had a similar issue does anyone know of a fix?

What I found was that this was a common issue among the 2007 NNBS trucks, it's an issue with the software of the vehicle and the RCDLR going to sleep and not "waking" or booting back up. I pulled the fuse for the RCDLR for a few seconds then reinstalled it, now everything is working fine. The fuse is labeled "DSM" in the fuse box on the left side of the instrument panel.

There was a recall for this, but GM will only fix it if your vehicle is still covered under the limited new-vehicle warranty. The permanent fix for this issue is a software update for the vehicle.

Hope this helps.

 

[Bryan Plett]

Thank you for your post. I pulled the fuse and everything going worked again. It was an easy fix thanks to your post.

 

[Mutts Cuts]

Thank you for your post. I pulled the fuse and everything going worked again. It was an easy fix thanks to your post.

I have had this problem arise on my 2007 Yukon XL, but pulling the fuse didn't work. Do you have to pull the fuse with the car on and running, or with the key turned on?

 

[Mutts Cuts]

I've only ever read forum posts. This will be my first time posting my own problem to a group. Let me know if I'm doing this wrong, or if and how I would pose a new question.

Here is what has happened so far:

Over a 2 week period I noticed that the range of my FOB was getting poor and with each day I would need to be closer to the vehicle to get the FOB to work, but sometimes it would still only work after pressing the unlock several times while next to the vehicle.
I replaced the battery and purchased an additional aftermarket FOB just to be sure it wasn't the FOB or battery. The new FOB was programmed successfully and it worked for a few days then all FOBs stopped working altogether. I get no response under any circumstance. I have tried unplugging the battery, reprogramming the FOBs (this can't be performed now like it used to be), and i've pulled the DSM fuse with the vehicle off ( this may be my problem. I'll try pulling the fuse with the key on later) .

Please let me know if there are any other items to check before turning this over to a shop.

Thank you

 

[HOG4FUN62]

I have also been having this same problem on my 07 YUKON XL. I have replaced batteries, bought and programmed new remotes. They only work if I am within a few feet of the truck. I didn't see a reply to the above problem. If anyone knows how to remedy this, please post.

Thank you

 

[5StarG3neral]

Yes I know I'm bumping an ancient thread but I'm stumped with this issue.

My fobs and tpms were working intermittently until they finally quit.

I've pulled the fuse as I've read in multiple posts... No luck. Bought a new replacement from rock auto.. No luck. My autel scanner cannot communicate with the rcdlr at all.

Anybody have any suggestions?

 

[jeeperak]

i started having the issues so i replaced the rcdlr and still nothing. any help at all will be amazing. after replacing the unit i drove for about 10 miles started and restarted, also pulled fuse and nothing..i cant get passed the relearn keyless entry. It wont go into learn mode either and tpms is still nogo as well. basically as if i did nothing lol

 

[mikez71]

I believe you need the rcldr module programmed to your vehicle.

 

[swathdiver]

i started having the issues so i replaced the rcdlr and still nothing. any help at all will be amazing. after replacing the unit i drove for about 10 miles started and restarted, also pulled fuse and nothing..i cant get passed the relearn keyless entry. It wont go into learn mode either and tpms is still nogo as well. basically as if i did nothing lol

Like Mike said, a new RCDLR must be programmed to the vehicle, they are not plug and play.

 

[jeeperak]

Thanks fellas very much, is there a ob2 tool i csn buy to do it myself? i need to do a few things like enable the power mirrors i put on too. im guessing maybe a MDI2 might to the trick?

 

[j91z28d1]

a cheap dc amp clamp/volt meter would tell you a lot. it still sounds like you're running off the battery at red lights to me.. it's better with 2 batteries, but still best not to do that if you can avoid it..

years and years ago. I put big electric fans on a car and it caused it to run off the battery at red lights. it was mostly. fine but batteries didn't last more than a year. I finally put a much smaller pulley on it, voltage held up and batteries went back to lasting years again.

the alt died from being over worked a few years later and I found a direct swap from a diesel version. put out crazy amps at idle, had to upgrade wiring that was getting warm, but it's been good for years and years after that.

I still feel your aftermarket alt is blah at idle, I'd check it. since I don't trust many aftermarket stuff to be good

 

[swathdiver]

Thanks fellas very much, is there a ob2 tool i csn buy to do it myself? i need to do a few things like enable the power mirrors i put on too. im guessing maybe a MDI2 might to the trick?

Yes, an MDI with a laptop can do programming with a Subscription to ACDelco's TDS. For diagnostics you would need a copy of the GM Global Diagnostic Software.