keyed hot wire

[phattyford]

I need to find an easy to get to keyed hot (remote) wire under the hood for my pressure switch on my train horns. Anyone know of an easy to get to keyed hot that I can tap into? Thanks in advance.

 

[Modded]

Find a fuse in the fuse box that goes to a part that only works with the car on.
The washer fluid pump fuse for the front and rear may work. The wiper blade fuse will also work.
Then get an add a line fuse kit from Auto Zone like the one below and you are gold.
http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FH...TF8&qid=1340170016&sr=8-1&keywords=add+a+line

 

[Fearz]

I used a fuse from my fuse box for my remote for my amp. Can't remember which one, but I just bought a fuse tap from autozone with a 10 amp fuse.

 

[phattyford]

Find a fuse in the fuse box that goes to a part that only works with the car on.
The washer fluid pump fuse for the front and rear may work. The wiper blade fuse will also work.
Then get an add a line fuse kit from Auto Zone like the one below and you are gold.
http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FH...TF8&qid=1340170016&sr=8-1&keywords=add+a+line

yeah i thought about that but I was trying to stay away from tapping into the fuze box.

 

[Modded]

yeah i thought about that but I was trying to stay away from tapping into the fuze box.

Well the tap is for a relay pressure switch right? If so, it won't be drawing all its power from there. Plus, the add a line kit is fused to prevent damage to original components.

 

[yates ™]

yeah i thought about that but I was trying to stay away from tapping into the fuze box.

I would rather run a fuse tap then to cut into wiring

 

[Modded]

I would rather run a fuse tap then to cut into wiring

+1

 

[phattyford]

Well the tap is for a relay pressure switch right? If so, it won't be drawing all its power from there. Plus, the add a line kit is fused to prevent damage to original components.

Correct, it's for a relay pressure switch. I wasn't saying you were wrong on disagreeing with you at all. In fact, I think it is the most logical solution. I simply don't wanna have to run a wire from the fuse box all the way down to the passenger side front bumper. I guess I'm being lazy. Plus I didn't want a bunch of stuff cluttered in my fuse box.

Thanks for you help! It's appreciated and I suppose I'm of to the parts house.

 

[Modded]

I was not offended at all man! I was just mentioning it is the easiest route because most of the electrical components under the hood are on the drivers side anyway, so you will have to run the wire across the bay, then down.

 

[phattyford]

I got one one of those add a line fuse holders from Advanced Auto today for like $6. Seems like it's gonna work great...we'll find out tomorrow.

 

[Modded]

Let us know!

 

[iwaslowr]

There are typically un-used switched power source slots in the fuse boxes(both under dash and under hood if I'm not mistaken). My first step would be to use a tester light to determine which are hot when the ingition is on. This would provide me with a dedicated source, and none of the other switched components would be affected. Just my .02

 

[AaronIROCZ]

There are typically un-used switched power source slots in the fuse boxes(both under dash and under hood if I'm not mistaken). My first step would be to use a tester light to determine which are hot when the ingition is on. This would provide me with a dedicated source, and none of the other switched components would be affected. Just my .02

Correct, here is a post from another forum showing where it is at and which pins to use. They have the title showing nbs but he meant nnbs.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=109163

 

[Modded]

There are typically un-used switched power source slots in the fuse boxes(both under dash and under hood if I'm not mistaken). My first step would be to use a tester light to determine which are hot when the ignition is on. This would provide me with a dedicated source, and none of the other switched components would be affected. Just my .02

The add a fuse line does not affect anything for his application because it is not being used for a power source and it is fused.

 

[phattyford]

So I got everything wired up today. I used a test light and found that fuse #43 (MISC ING (10A)) was a keyed hot wire. I decided to use this fuse and put the add a line fuse holder "fuse tap" on it. Ran the "remote" wire out of the fuse panel and around the back and alongside the fire wall to the passenger side of the truck then down to my pressure switch. Everything works fine and as it should. Now all I've gotta do is clean it up with some wire loom. I ran out of the small stuff and wasn't about to use the big loom that I have on a small remote wire.

Modded, big props and thanks cause I didn't even know these fuse taps exist until you gave me the link.

Sorry for the small attachment pics, I don't know how to post the big pictures yet.

 

[Modded]

Very nice!
When you install that split loom you will be all good to go.

 

[Blazed]

hey can we get some pics of your train horn setup?
I have a train horn too but my tank is like a gallon max and i hate it plus my horn faces out the back.
Im really interested to see what you did!

 

[phattyford]

hey can we get some pics of your train horn setup?
I have a train horn too but my tank is like a gallon max and i hate it plus my horn faces out the back.
Im really interested to see what you did!

WOW! Our trucks look like twins. haha! Here's a youtube video that I made and you can kinda get an idea of how everything was mounted and stuff. I shot it with my iPhone so it's not the best quality and it's pretty cheesy but you get the ideal.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iePBB-0Cn_U&feature=plcp

 

[Blazed]

alright thanks man preciate it!

---------- Post added at 12:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:12 PM ----------

wheels are a B**** to keep clean right?!?!?

 

[Blazed]

well thanks to you I think I'm prolly going to relocate my horns to the front and upsize the tank....instead of relocating the horns maybe ill just add some...