Keeping coolant and transmission temps under control when towing in the summer heat

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had the seller send me a replacement meter still get the same readings 2400-2600 cfm, with the left side being 2600 and right 2400 on high. 7/9 rimmed 700w
View attachment 346044
Odd, then maybe it's my meter?

I would think if I used the same settings I would get somewhat the same kind of reading, but mines waaay more.

How/where are you actually holding the meter sensor?
 
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For me to get that reading with those settings it barely takes any air. Also notice the 1bft and only 1 arrow to get that same reading.

What is the x10 in the lower left of your screen for? 20210727_162446.jpg
 
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OK, I messed with my meter, cleared AL settings and re-entered 1.000 M/2 (which is 10.76 FT/2) and held it up to the minisplit head unit in my garage and I was getting a more "on par" reading20210727_163916.jpg
 
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OK, retesting my drivers side fan, depending how/angle I hold it it will read x1 and high cfm like in the 8000/9000s, but while moving it around it will read x10 and be in the 1200/1300s20210727_164641.jpg
 

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I posted on the local facebook neighborhood to see if anyone has the k5l fans so I can do a comparison test, it's a shot in the dark but lot's of them around here.
 

Cincikid

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I've been following this thread as I have a fairly new to me 2008 Denali that has been running hot (engine) while towing my 4500lb travel trailer. I've changed the water pump, thermostat, swapped the radiator for a cold case two core and hooked up the oil and transmission cooler lines, added customized radiator baffles (the OEM ones are stupid expensive) and added a Derale larger transmission cooler. When towing up local hills with the AC on and my family in the vehicle, the engine temperature will touch 230, the transmission temperature has always stayed below 190. It always seems to go back down off throttle and on the flat will hover around 210 to 215. One thing that made a big difference for me was swapping out the Denali grille for a standard Silverado grillle. But the temperatures hitting 230 still concerns me.
 
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I have a vornado house fan that blows 8000cfm but it only get's the flow to X1, the fans on the truck get it up to x10
I know the cfm Is supposed to be setup for the area being tested. Usually setup for air through a duct or corridor. An open fan probably has a special procedure or setting up like the physical size of the fan in square footage to get a more accurate reading.

Aren't your fans that you tested the K5L (700w) fans?
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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I've been following this thread as I have a fairly new to me 2008 Denali that has been running hot (engine) while towing my 4500lb travel trailer. I've changed the water pump, thermostat, swapped the radiator for a cold case two core and hooked up the oil and transmission cooler lines, added customized radiator baffles (the OEM ones are stupid expensive) and added a Derale larger transmission cooler. When towing up local hills with the AC on and my family in the vehicle, the engine temperature will touch 230, the transmission temperature has always stayed below 190. It always seems to go back down off throttle and on the flat will hover around 210 to 215. One thing that made a big difference for me was swapping out the Denali grille for a standard Silverado grillle. But the temperatures hitting 230 still concerns me.
60's 70's 80's
230 would be scary
On these, that's not bad considering what you're doing with it.
You need things and cooling systems are supposed to be capable of 260f I believe.
 

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I know the cfm Is supposed to be setup for the area being tested. Usually setup for air through a duct or corridor. An open fan probably has a special procedure or setting up like the physical size of the fan in square footage to get a more accurate reading.

Aren't your fans that you tested the K5L (700w) fans?
Yes I upgraded mine to the k5l 1st design 7/9 rimmed 700w, bought it used from a hummer and installed new motors, but if the 5/5 700w moves more air then I will switch it up.
 

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