Keep my Tahoe?

[vcode]

Yeah, another opinion question. I have a 2010 Tahoe LT 4WD with 80K miles. Runs good, doesn't burn oil, but is due for all the fluids to be changed. It has minimal rust for a Wisconsin truck. The underside actually looks better than a 2016 I looked at a few months ago. The are (2) 3/32" paint bubbles on the wheel arch of the passenger side fear fender, which I know is a place for rust to start. The 20" rims of course look like crap, and 3 of them have slow air leaks thru the rims.

If this were a truck from a rust free area, I wouldn't even ask the question, but I would keep it. But I wonder if I should look at something newer from a rust free area? There are a few low mileage '13's or '14's out there (I would look at all 3 brands) but prices seem excessive. Or they have 100K+ miles. If I go next Gen, I think I would avoid '15-16's and look for a '17 or newer. But hose are expensive around here as well and the few I have looked at looked like they sat in the ocean for a year, at least the undersides. Plus I'd be lucky to get $10K trade on mine. So, do I keep it and throw some fender flares on it when the wheel arches rust or look for something newer? As much as I drive lately, I could just wait 5 years and buy something at that time. I know this is really my decision, just looking for some opinions, good or bad!

 

[Bill 1960]

You could Fluid Film it and drive it for a long time with minimal expense.

Mainly depends on your needs. If you need a transportation appliance then you have that. Trading won’t help you.

If you need to present an image to business contacts etc. for professional success then sometimes an older vehicle doesn’t help. Note I don’t mean the keeping up with the neighbors culture that we’re all trained to aspire to.

 

[Miami-Dade]

I vote to change out the fluids and keep it.

 

[wjburken]

I vote to change out the fluids and keep it.

x2 on keeping it and maintaining it.

 

[Kristin Benjamin]

Keep it. We’ve own a 2015, 2007, and 2011. The oldest ones are the best. Just keep fixing and maintaining and it’s worth it. So much more Comfortable than the newer ones and easier to fix when something goes wrong.


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[Sparksalot]

Why trade it when the mileage is so low? Your's has half the miles of either of mine.

 

[ls1frc]

Mines rusting worse than that, has 149k on it and I just swapped a 6.2 in it. I just fluid film visible areas and it keeps the rust from spreading further. It will last a while with basic upkeep of that.

 

[ls1frc]

Also newer isn't always better. Sure they look better, imo but look into the GM A8 problems.

 

[wsteele]

I feel for you. I own a 2007 Yukon SLT that I will likely keep until I die, I literally love the thing.

The difference in our situations is mine has no rust issues. I really hate rust and likely wouldn’t keep mine if it started to show up.

You no doubt have done the depreciation math and understand how much work you can do on your current rig, each and every year, before replacing it makes economic sense.

Whatever you decide, never forget the “devil you know”, thing. Best of luck, whatever you decide.

 

[ivin74]

x2 on keeping it and maintaining it.

X3, and put some z71 fender flares. Keep driving it for 5 more years.

 

[adventurenali92]

Have the small spots over the wheel wells fixed, get the fluids all replaced, and throw a new set of wheels on it. That’s WAY CHEAPER, than payments on a newer one. And you know what yours is going to need. 80k is nothing in a GM engine. That rig has a lot of life left in it. Wheels can be had just about anywhere on the internet these days, whether it be a used AWD on Craigslist, or a new take off set, or brand new replicas. Replacing all the fluids is cheap insurance to keep your rig running good and strong.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I say keep it, and perform any repairs/touch-ups that you believe that you need to make. You know what you have now, and if you purchase a replacement truck, you will have to re-learn all of the problems with the replacement truck, and then you will have to address them as required.

Regarding wheel air leaks, have the wheel bead areas dressed up/polished with a very fine grit abrasive sanding power tool, apply bead sealant, and re-mount the tires. I had 3 wheel/tire/bead leaks on my new-to-me 07 Yukon XL Denali, when I purchased it, and I had this work performed by my local repair shop. Since then, I have not wheel air leaks.

 

[1BADI5]

Have the small spots over the wheel wells fixed, get the fluids all replaced, and throw a new set of wheels on it. That’s WAY CHEAPER, than payments on a newer one. And you know what yours is going to need. 80k is nothing in a GM engine. That rig has a lot of life left in it. Wheels can be had just about anywhere on the internet these days, whether it be a used AWD on Craigslist, or a new take off set, or brand new replicas. Replacing all the fluids is cheap insurance to keep your rig running good and strong.

Basically everything I was going to say.

Cheaper to keep em

 

[cfmistry]

I agree with the other guys. 80k is nothing, lots of life left. If you're itching for a new truck then go ahead and scratch that, but if you are happy with what you have then keep it.

 

[petethepug]

Keep it or trade up a year or two if you’ve got the itch for a change. Fix the bubbles, apply oil based undercoat.

Depreciation is going to hit the 15+ Tahoe / Yuke / Burb / Esky hard as the Turbo Diesel and full EV drive trains are released.

Eventually, the competition will drive the cost of new drive trains down. I’d say hang out and watch what happens for a while. [emoji897]


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[2010gmcyukon]

Are you sure the air leak is through the rims? I had a slow leak on one of my truck tires (that were on the truck when I bought it). I saw no visible holes or cracks. I finally got sick of dealing with it and replaced the tires. Turned out there were 3 patches on that one tire...

 

[Big Sal]

I am new to he site - I have my 2008 Tahoe with 265K on it and I still love it - what is film fluid and how does it encapsulate the rust - I am interested in it - thanks

 

[EvergreenZ71]

You didn’t mention color, and I only ask because I really want fender flares (and chrome delete) on my 2009 6.2l Tahoe, but it’s Champaign (pearl) white and the place that did them for my 2500 suburban said white is the hardest to blend.

But I’m x2 on spending a little to patch the rust, seal it from getting worse, and stick with the reliability you know over the gamble of a replacement used vehicle unless professional image is a critical value for the truck.

 

[Bigshawn]

Yeah, another opinion question. I have a 2010 Tahoe LT 4WD with 80K miles. Runs good, doesn't burn oil, but is due for all the fluids to be changed. It has minimal rust for a Wisconsin truck. The underside actually looks better than a 2016 I looked at a few months ago. The are (2) 3/32" paint bubbles on the wheel arch of the passenger side fear fender, which I know is a place for rust to start. The 20" rims of course look like crap, and 3 of them have slow air leaks thru the rims.

If this were a truck from a rust free area, I wouldn't even ask the question, but I would keep it. But I wonder if I should look at something newer from a rust free area? There are a few low mileage '13's or '14's out there (I would look at all 3 brands) but prices seem excessive. Or they have 100K+ miles. If I go next Gen, I think I would avoid '15-16's and look for a '17 or newer. But hose are expensive around here as well and the few I have looked at looked like they sat in the ocean for a year, at least the undersides. Plus I'd be lucky to get $10K trade on mine. So, do I keep it and throw some fender flares on it when the wheel arches rust or look for something newer? As much as I drive lately, I could just wait 5 years and buy something at that time. I know this is really my decision, just looking for some opinions, good or bad!

I would keep if I was you but if you want to sell I'll give ya 10k cash for it.

 

[Fless]

I am new to he site - I have my 2008 Tahoe with 265K on it and I still love it - what is film fluid and how does it encapsulate the rust - I am interested in it - thanks

Eric O. shows how he uses the lanolin-based fluid film to protect his truck: