Instrument Cluster PRNDL or Message Going Blank on you?

[rockola1971]

If your message center or PRNDL indicator section is blank or goes in and out typically its a bad solder joint at one of the resistors in circle #1. Also check circle #2. If you open up the cluster I would reflow solder and use good quality solder to all of those connections. They will eventually crack, especially the 7 resistors in circle #1.
Ever wondered where your mileage is stored? That would be the chip in circle #3. If you get a used or rebuilt Instrument cluster and want to transfer all of your mileage and settings, you just desolder the chip in circle #3 and install that chip on your replacement cluster. Done Deal.

Out of the 7 resistors there, 5 of them either had one end cracked at the solder joint or both ends were cracked! GM and whoever supplied the clusters to them used cheap solder during assembly. That solder if decent quality should be shiny silver colored instead of that dull grayish color. Even after almost 20yrs old. They likely used a cheap production method called solder bath during assembly.

 

[LordWayback]

I knew about this already I’ve just been dreading taking out my gauges when there’s far more wrong :/

 

[B-train]

If your message center or PRNDL indicator section is blank or goes in and out typically its a bad solder joint at one of the resistors in circle #1. Also check circle #2. If you open up the cluster I would reflow solder and use good quality solder to all of those connections. They will eventually crack, especially the 7 resistors in circle #1.
Ever wondered where your mileage is stored? That would be the chip in circle #3. If you get a used or rebuilt Instrument cluster and want to transfer all of your mileage and settings, you just desolder the chip in circle #3 and install that chip on your replacement cluster. Done Deal.View attachment 384381View attachment 384382
Out of the 7 resistors there, 5 of them either had one end cracked at the solder joint or both ends were cracked! GM and whoever supplied the clusters to them used cheap solder during assembly. That solder if decent quality should be shiny silver colored instead of that dull grayish color. Even after almost 20yrs old. They likely used a cheap production method called solder bath during assembly.

That is very informative. I learned something new today, thanks for sharing!

 

[mattbta]

Does this also apply to dim prndl and dic? Few years back I had a guy swap bulbs and steppers but my prndl is still dim.

 

[rockola1971]

Does this also apply to dim prndl and dic? Few years back I had a guy swap bulbs and steppers but my prndl is still dim.

Yup Dim or Blanked out usually is caused by what I showed in pics OR the solder joints for the Displays themselves. The solder the OEM used is ridiculously cheap.

 

[S33k3r]

Is there a way to make the Driver's Information Console brighter?

 

[Fless]

Is there a way to make the Driver's Information Console brighter?

This is one of my minor complaints. The DIC is slightly dimmer than the PRND321 display and difficult to read in daylight. Seems to have been the same in a few other NBS's that I've been in, kind of the norm. Would like to know if there is a way to brighten it up a bit.

 

[rockola1971]

This is one of my minor complaints. The DIC is slightly dimmer than the PRND321 display and difficult to read in daylight. Seems to have been the same in a few other NBS's that I've been in, kind of the norm. Would like to know if there is a way to brighten it up a bit.

I would need a schematic or atleast the part number (non gm) of the DIC and I could find its schematic and then change a resistor value a little bit to jack up voltage applied. But part spec would show its max operating voltage and that would be needed info too. Ive never had to remove a DIC so I dont know if part# is on its underside or not. Since it dims and brightens via the dimmer switch that tells me it has no problem operating on multiple voltages. I just need to know what its max is. Brightening it up 10, 20 or even X% shouldnt be a problem to figure out as long as the max operating voltage is know.

 

[Fless]

I would need a schematic or atleast the part number (non gm) of the DIC and I could find its schematic and then change a resistor value a little bit to jack up voltage applied. But part spec would show its max operating voltage and that would be needed info too. Ive never had to remove a DIC so I dont know if part# is on its underside or not. Since it dims and brightens via the dimmer switch that tells me it has no problem operating on multiple voltages. I just need to know what its max is. Brightening it up 10, 20 or even X% shouldnt be a problem to figure out as long as the max operating voltage is know.

I may pull a cluster from a like truck next time I hit the UPull. Once I do that I could see if there's any kind of part number on the DIC.

 

[rockola1971]

I may pull a cluster from a like truck next time I hit the UPull. Once I do that I could see if there's any kind of part number on the DIC.

Ive got a Cluster right here on my desk and I cant see a part number anywhere on it. But I cant see underneath the DIC and that thing has a ton of solder connections!

 

[Logan5]

When I got my hands on an 06 cluster I put it in because I like the LED PRNDL much nicer than the LCD.

 

[Mtncrvr]

Just adding to this thread (having same issue). The cluster part # is on the back. This is from my 6 gauge ‘03 for reference.

The xxxx2146 ending is the 6 gauge, xxxx2147 is the 7 gauge (incl trans temp). Looks like a swap would need programming or the eprom (small chip) swapped over at least to retain mileage/vin info.

Note the fix in the video is to replace the large IC (chip) left of the Tach motor. That’s pretty fine soldering work, difficult without good flux and ideally a hot air rework station. Then you need a decent magnifier to verify pins aren’t shorting to each other. My cluster is displaying gibberish and randomly not working at all as well. Gauges just freeze and both displays go dark or display nonsense like below pict. I replaced my stepper motors and lights about 6 yrs ago and they’ve been fine since. This problem started about 2 weeks ago.

Will attempt reflowing the resistors in question but I suspect that chip is going bad, it’ll reset and everything works for a bit then stop even while parked or just with ignition on parked.

 

[S33k3r]

Actually, there are several people out there who can correct the mileage for you.