How to fix "rear doors open" or "liftgate open" instrument cluster messages

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tahoefix

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Hi Guys,
This will be my last post here, as I no longer have a Tahoe. I thought I'd share the solution that took me a year to track down. Ever since I owned my Tahoe, I could not use the feature of having the interior lights come on when a door was opened, otherwise they would never turn off. Also, I would always have an instrument cluster message about a "rear door ajar" or "liftgate open". I finally started to dig into it when I was having battery drain issues. I had replaced the battery a year ago, but it only lasted 12 months before needing to be replaced. I discovered the root cause was making all these symptoms appear.

Until a month or two ago I didn't try too hard to diagnose it. The battery drain issue in particular forced me to address it. I will explain what is most likely going on if you are having a problem with the doors constantly being reported as being open, when they are in fact closed. There is super easy test to diagnose and verify the root cause. Underneath your dash is the BCM (Body Control Module):
BCM_location.jpg


You have to remove the lower dash panels to to access it. Here is what it looks like:
1643257557662.png


The BCM detects whether the doors are open or closed. If the BCM is faulty, no amount of shutting a door harder will cause the warning messages to go away. Here is how to detect if the BCM is faulty, or you have a door switch problem-
On the bottom of the BCM is a blue and purple plug:
1643257933009.png

Unplug the connector. If you still see messages on the instrument cluster about the rear doors or liftgate being open, then the BCM is absolutely faulty. There still could be problems with the door switches, but you know for sure the problem will not be remedied until the BCM is replaced. If you unplug it, and the problem goes away, then the problem lies with one of your switches.

Now for the theory, in case you are interested. There is a microcontroller in the BCM that controls and handles many functions. One of those functions is that it can measure voltages. For the door switches, when the door is closed, the switch is open (disconnected). The resistor at R1 pulls up, or raises the voltage, seen at the microcontroller for the door switch. So if the door is closed, the microcontroller effectively reads the voltage as Vcc:

1643258927650.png

You can check this by measuring the voltage seen at the door switch terminals.

If the door is open, the switch connects to ground, and the microcontroller reads a much lower voltage - much closer to ground. So when we disconnect the blue and purple harness, it should make all rear doors and liftgate appear closed, if the BCM is working properly. Even if the doors were open, when the purple connector is unplugged, the switches cannot ground the signal:
1643260662856.png

The circuit is a little more complicated, but that's the gist of it. I got irritated with my BCM so I removed the PCB and reverse engineered how it worked. When the BCM is faulty, it draws current on those signals, and thus measures a lower voltage than it should, and thinks the door is open. I have a theory this may happen with vehicles that have had a large number of door open-close cycles. The inductance of the traces and wires may damage those microcontroller pins over time, depending on how fast those switches close/open.
 
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tahoefix

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Here's the PCB:
1643261964941.png


1643262087316.png


If we zoom in to part of the circuit, the red pin and trace corresponds to the liftgate ajar signal. The 1200R serves as part of the pullup (purple traces correspond to +Vcc). The red trace is also measured at the microcontroller:
1643262638280.png
 
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tahoefix

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Additional info: the battery drain issue relates to the BCM always thinking the doors are open, and thus keeping Retained Accessory Power (RAP). So circuits that would otherwise shut down, like the radio, amp, etc. stay activated and consume power. When I had this problem, I measured around 2-3 amps parasitic draw at all times. When the BCM was unplugged, parasitic draw dropped down to something like 50-100 mA.

The fix: replace the BCM! I bought a used one off ebay. You can get the vehicle to run with a used BCM, with the 30 minute key relearn procedure. But the only functions that will work on your car are ones that were programmed to the used BCM. So things like power mirrors, radio, etc. need to be programmed to your vehicle if you pickup a BCM off ebay. You can do it yourself if you buy a VCX nano, which is what I did. That enables you to re-program other modules in your vehicle as well. You need to also buy a subscription to AC Delco's programming site.
 
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Joseph Garcia

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Thank you for your past contributions to the Forum.

And thank you for your current post on the BCM. Very informative, and our collective knowledge base has been increased.

I wish you the best of outcomes with your new ride, and perhaps, we will see you back here in the Forum in the future.
 

Mtncrvr

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Great write up, I have this prob w/R-Rear pass door and it drives me nuts! Will test BCM, btw what year / years does this apply to ?
 

rsparrish82

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Hi Guys,
This will be my last post here, as I no longer have a Tahoe. I thought I'd share the solution that took me a year to track down. Ever since I owned my Tahoe, I could not use the feature of having the interior lights come on when a door was opened, otherwise they would never turn off. Also, I would always have an instrument cluster message about a "rear door ajar" or "liftgate open". I finally started to dig into it when I was having battery drain issues. I had replaced the battery a year ago, but it only lasted 12 months before needing to be replaced. I discovered the root cause was making all these symptoms appear.

Until a month or two ago I didn't try too hard to diagnose it. The battery drain issue in particular forced me to address it. I will explain what is most likely going on if you are having a problem with the doors constantly being reported as being open, when they are in fact closed. There is super easy test to diagnose and verify the root cause. Underneath your dash is the BCM (Body Control Module):
View attachment 361617

You have to remove the lower dash panels to to access it. Here is what it looks like:
View attachment 361623

The BCM detects whether the doors are open or closed. If the BCM is faulty, no amount of shutting a door harder will cause the warning messages to go away. Here is how to detect if the BCM is faulty, or you have a door switch problem-
On the bottom of the BCM is a blue and purple plug:
View attachment 361624
Unplug the connector. If you still see messages on the instrument cluster about the rear doors or liftgate being open, then the BCM is absolutely faulty. There still could be problems with the door switches, but you know for sure the problem will not be remedied until the BCM is replaced. If you unplug it, and the problem goes away, then the problem lies with one of your switches.

Now for the theory, in case you are interested. There is a microcontroller in the BCM that controls and handles many functions. One of those functions is that it can measure voltages. For the door switches, when the door is closed, the switch is open (disconnected). The resistor at R1 pulls up, or raises the voltage, seen at the microcontroller for the door switch. So if the door is closed, the microcontroller effectively reads the voltage as Vcc:

View attachment 361627
You can check this by measuring the voltage seen at the door switch terminals.

If the door is open, the switch connects to ground, and the microcontroller reads a much lower voltage - much closer to ground. So when we disconnect the blue and purple harness, it should make all rear doors and liftgate appear closed, if the BCM is working properly. Even if the doors were open, when the purple connector is unplugged, the switches cannot ground the signal:
View attachment 361632
The circuit is a little more complicated, but that's the gist of it. I got irritated with my BCM so I removed the PCB and reverse engineered how it worked. When the BCM is faulty, it draws current on those signals, and thus measures a lower voltage than it should, and thinks the door is open. I have a theory this may happen with vehicles that have had a large number of door open-close cycles. The inductance of the traces and wires may damage those microcontroller pins over time, depending on how fast those switches close/open.
This is great information to me! I have been experiencing this on a 03 Yukon Denali i
Hi Guys,
This will be my last post here, as I no longer have a Tahoe. I thought I'd share the solution that took me a year to track down. Ever since I owned my Tahoe, I could not use the feature of having the interior lights come on when a door was opened, otherwise they would never turn off. Also, I would always have an instrument cluster message about a "rear door ajar" or "liftgate open". I finally started to dig into it when I was having battery drain issues. I had replaced the battery a year ago, but it only lasted 12 months before needing to be replaced. I discovered the root cause was making all these symptoms appear.

Until a month or two ago I didn't try too hard to diagnose it. The battery drain issue in particular forced me to address it. I will explain what is most likely going on if you are having a problem with the doors constantly being reported as being open, when they are in fact closed. There is super easy test to diagnose and verify the root cause. Underneath your dash is the BCM (Body Control Module):
View attachment 361617

You have to remove the lower dash panels to to access it. Here is what it looks like:
View attachment 361623

The BCM detects whether the doors are open or closed. If the BCM is faulty, no amount of shutting a door harder will cause the warning messages to go away. Here is how to detect if the BCM is faulty, or you have a door switch problem-
On the bottom of the BCM is a blue and purple plug:
View attachment 361624
Unplug the connector. If you still see messages on the instrument cluster about the rear doors or liftgate being open, then the BCM is absolutely faulty. There still could be problems with the door switches, but you know for sure the problem will not be remedied until the BCM is replaced. If you unplug it, and the problem goes away, then the problem lies with one of your switches.

Now for the theory, in case you are interested. There is a microcontroller in the BCM that controls and handles many functions. One of those functions is that it can measure voltages. For the door switches, when the door is closed, the switch is open (disconnected). The resistor at R1 pulls up, or raises the voltage, seen at the microcontroller for the door switch. So if the door is closed, the microcontroller effectively reads the voltage as Vcc:

View attachment 361627
You can check this by measuring the voltage seen at the door switch terminals.

If the door is open, the switch connects to ground, and the microcontroller reads a much lower voltage - much closer to ground. So when we disconnect the blue and purple harness, it should make all rear doors and liftgate appear closed, if the BCM is working properly. Even if the doors were open, when the purple connector is unplugged, the switches cannot ground the signal:
View attachment 361632
The circuit is a little more complicated, but that's the gist of it. I got irritated with my BCM so I removed the PCB and reverse engineered how it worked. When the BCM is faulty, it draws current on those signals, and thus measures a lower voltage than it should, and thinks the door is open. I have a theory this may happen with vehicles that have had a large number of door open-close cycles. The inductance of the traces and wires may damage those microcontroller pins over time, depending on how fast those switches close/open.
I know this thread is quite old, but it is exactly what I needed to read! I have read other posts on other forums about the purple connector, and mine has been having the intermittent "Rear Access Open" message that goes away with a slight wiggle from the connector on the BCM. I also have been keeping the interior lights turned off as a precaution while I try and research my issue... Seeing this post, I think I will dive right in and purchase a BCM off eBay and get it programmed as I don't have the tech tools at my immediate disposal to do that myself. I only paid 3k for the Denali, and aside from a few other minor electrical gremlins I am fighting (gauge cluster illumination and a known bad door sensor on the driver's door latch, so it doesn't kill power when the driver's door is opened), this seems to be the most annoying issue. it's got 227k on it, and everything else on it seems pretty stout.

Much appreciation for the tribal knowledge I have been able to find on this forum!
 

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