Howdy

[Stang&Hoe]

first post on here, been lurking for a while, but finally joining up.
bought my dad his 99 hoe back in 06, and just bought it from him a couple months ago. cant put the keys down!! makin my mustang jealous. haha

the big ole hoe is sittin at a healthy 160k miles on the good ole 350. got a ton of the good ole squeaks and rattles like it should. haha but i love this truck. looks like im NOT alone in that!

but onto the good stuff, only thing my Hoe really needs right now is new lights...any recomendations on where to order from? all 4 are pretty hazed.

anyway, yall try to hang with me for a bit, as im sure i will ask some stupid questions till i get used to this forum and this truck. as you see from my Sig, im mainly a 4.6 guy...i wont say im a ford guy, but i love my little 4.6 motors, and ive learned how to make them do tricks. haha i hope to do the same with this big ole land yacht with some help from you guys and gals!!

 

[foreverfalcon40]

Welcome to the forums!


Nice fleet you go there! There are ZERO tricks with these motors.
What is your over goal for the motor? Maybe we can save you some time and money!

 

[xanatost]

Welcome aboard

Supplies from any parts store ( Adavance, AutoZone, ect...)
1 can of good clear
1 Pack of wet/dry sandpaper: 1000, 2000, 2500 (you can find a pack that will have the different grits in it)

If you are wanting to keep the factor headlights I would take them off and start sanding with a 1000grit wet (keep the sand paper wet and the light too) when it gets a haze all over the light switch to 2000grit wet and sand the lights again. Wile you are sanding rub you finger over the lense and it should feel smooth like glass. Make sure you keep useing water! Don't want to burn the lenses. Once you got it all sanded, take some dawn and clean everything again. Make sure you do not touch the lense or the oils from your hand will contaminate the lenses. Dry off the lenses and if you have a air hose with a blower you can use that. Just make sure everything is bone dry. Get a good rattle can of clear coat and put 2 coats on and let dry all the way. Now after it drys look at the lights at an angle and you will see what is know as orange peal. Not a big deal. Take some 2500grit wet and sand again. Make dam sure you have enought water on this step! Take your fingers and check for smoothness again. Once you get it where you like it stop. It's back clouded again and that is fine. Clean it again to make sure nothing got on the lenses again. And put on one light even coat and let dry. Install back on the hoe and be amazed. Then research the 4hi mod lol.

 

[Donnie Yukonie]

Welcome to the forum

 

[_Dylan_]

tyc or anzo clear headlight are the better ones. I don't recommend buying cheapo ebay headlights. They have sealing problems and fog up with condensation. Ebay is fine for the parking and corner lights though.

 

[McFizzl]

Yeah everyone recommended anzo to me. Spyder can be hit and miss with their lights. IPCW also good but they are gonna cost ya.

 

[Stang&Hoe]

Welcome aboard

Supplies from any parts store ( Adavance, AutoZone, ect...)
1 can of good clear
1 Pack of wet/dry sandpaper: 1000, 2000, 2500 (you can find a pack that will have the different grits in it)

If you are wanting to keep the factor headlights I would take them off and start sanding with a 1000grit wet (keep the sand paper wet and the light too) when it gets a haze all over the light switch to 2000grit wet and sand the lights again. Wile you are sanding rub you finger over the lense and it should feel smooth like glass. Make sure you keep useing water! Don't want to burn the lenses. Once you got it all sanded, take some dawn and clean everything again. Make sure you do not touch the lense or the oils from your hand will contaminate the lenses. Dry off the lenses and if you have a air hose with a blower you can use that. Just make sure everything is bone dry. Get a good rattle can of clear coat and put 2 coats on and let dry all the way. Now after it drys look at the lights at an angle and you will see what is know as orange peal. Not a big deal. Take some 2500grit wet and sand again. Make dam sure you have enought water on this step! Take your fingers and check for smoothness again. Once you get it where you like it stop. It's back clouded again and that is fine. Clean it again to make sure nothing got on the lenses again. And put on one light even coat and let dry. Install back on the hoe and be amazed. Then research the 4hi mod lol.

ive done similar to that on my vic, but never gone so far as to clear coat it! genius!!!! ill be pulling the lights from the hoe and back off the vic and doing this!! thanks!!!
and the 4hi is REQUIRED!!!! alrealdy subed to a post on it.



---------- Post added at 08:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:27 PM ----------

Welcome to the forums!


Nice fleet you go there! There are ZERO tricks with these motors.
What is your over goal for the motor? Maybe we can save you some time and money!

thank you very much!! i somehow end up with a sentimental attachment to all my vehicles...probably not healthy...lol

im not really looking for a 1300hp monster truck here...just a good dependable truck with enough power to pull a bass boat...not a hard task for these tanks haha but i just want to lift it a tad...maybe enough to clear 35s, but its a tow vehicle, so 35s are NOT required if itll bother my towing. got 285/75/16 now and they look just fine. got a set of 18x9 rims (not sure on the offset, traded labor for them. they came off a 06 silverado) if they work, peachy cause they were all in all free. but if they dont work...thats fine too since they were basically free. haha in reality, ill be content with 33x12.50 or so. and i want to get rid of any weak links i can in the truck.

 

[McFizzl]

Do what im doing. crank the keys and put 2 inch blocks in the rear. then you can run 33s without re-gearing and it wont affect your towing

 

[Stang&Hoe]

Do what im doing. crank the keys and put 2 inch blocks in the rear. then you can run 33s without re-gearing and it wont affect your towing

whats that do to the ride quality? i often pull LONG distances with this thing so i dont want to be in a horse and buggy. lol

 

[_Dylan_]

Cranking the bars will make it more stiff and you lose down travel. The good thing is that you could crank them and if you don't like the ride you can just uncrank them.

 

[Stang&Hoe]

Cranking the bars will make it more stiff and you lose down travel. The good thing is that you could crank them and if you don't like the ride you can just uncrank them.

how bad does it screw the alignment?

 

[McFizzl]

dont go more than 2 inches or you will start causing stuff to wear out and break. After a little research 2 inches on an OBS truck wont make the ride that bad. And 2 inch blocks on the rear and youre ready for 33s

 

[_Dylan_]

Depends on the how much you crank them, a larger crank 1.5-2" usually needs an alignment.

 

[Stang&Hoe]

im wondering if its already been cranked some...is there a way to tell? 285/75/16 dont scrub at all till wheel lock, at which time they drag the fender a tad. nothing major. BFG A/T stock wheels.

 

[McFizzl]

You are probably rubbing the A arms like me. Look at them and see if there is a nice polished part. Thats what my BFG ATs rub on

 

[Stang&Hoe]

You are probably rubbing the A arms like me. Look at them and see if there is a nice polished part. Thats what my BFG ATs rub on

yup i bet youre right. ill look when i get off work. they kinda nibble on the fender if the wheel is cut and i hit a decent bump, like pulling in or out of a fuel station thats on a hill for example.

 

[McFizzl]

mine rub when turned all the way. It jerks my wheel. Thankfully no damage to the tires from it.

 

[Stang&Hoe]

yeah my fenders had cut some decent gouges in the tires before i had the fenders rolled...

---------- Post added at 03:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:31 AM ----------

there we go. the tires are 285/75/16

do the bars look like theyve been cranked any?