How reliable are the 2011 Yukon Denalis?

[thedog52]

I am looking to buy a 2011 Yukon Denali. For some reason these are less expensive in my area compared to Tahoes. I know they are AWD, Correct? Is the AWD system reliable? The one I am looking at has 120k miles. No paperwork on it but it appears it has been maintained very well. The AWD system is something I am not familiar with, and Im not sure if there is anything else I should be on the lookout for. Please give me some advice on what is different and what can be problematic.

I had a 09 Tahoe for awhile and it was awesome, never had any issues but it also was not as fancy as a Denali. I would prefer a Tahoe but I am having a hard time finding one in my price range that doesnt already have 200k miles.

 

[B-train]

They are great trucks. If maintained well, many more miles of use can be expected. The AWD system is robust and not prone to issues (keep the transfer case and front differential serviced every 40 to 50k).

They have the same AFM garbage that your 2009 Tahoe had, so keep the oil clean (5k max changes with 5w-30 full synthetic will do you well). The transmission is the weak point, especially if it wasn't serviced at the severe schedule of every 50k. If it runs out good, have it serviced when you get it and delete the transmission thermostat that cooks the Torque Converter.

Bang for buck is usually a good deal on these. They drive superb, the cooled seats are a God-send, the Bose system will have you head banging to your favorite tunes, etc.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I have a 2007 Yukon XL Denali with the AWD, and I'm very happy with it.

 

[j91z28d1]

there's a sticky thread right above this called something like so yours looking to buy a 07-14 nnbs.

might start there. short answer. with 120k if zero maintenance has been do. it's about due for a tranny rebuild and top end engine rebuild because of afm lifters. some do last into 200k but let's just call it Russian Roulette

if you're a diy mechanic, not bad and probably worth it. if you're paying shop prices... ugh.

 

[swathdiver]

I am looking to buy a 2011 Yukon Denali. For some reason these are less expensive in my area compared to Tahoes. I know they are AWD, Correct? Is the AWD system reliable? The one I am looking at has 120k miles. No paperwork on it but it appears it has been maintained very well. The AWD system is something I am not familiar with, and Im not sure if there is anything else I should be on the lookout for. Please give me some advice on what is different and what can be problematic.

I had a 09 Tahoe for awhile and it was awesome, never had any issues but it also was not as fancy as a Denali. I would prefer a Tahoe but I am having a hard time finding one in my price range that doesnt already have 200k miles.

The Tahoe name is more popular and so they command a higher price.

Not all Denalis are AWD. Have to look underneath and see if it has a transfer case or know the VIN and RPO codes for it. The AWD system is Kiss simple and reliable. You don't even know it's there and keeping you safe.

These are very robust and reliable vehicles but remember, she's 15 years old now. If you buy it, change all the fluids, even the transmission, and run it on the severe service schedule from now on.

 

[thedog52]

I have a 2007 Yukon XL Denali with the AWD, and I'm very happy with it.

The guy said this one has air ride in the back. Is that something that might cost a fortune to replace or fix?

 

[B-train]

It's a nice system that does need some maintenance with age. The air bags get dry rotted and then can leak. If not caught, then it can burn out the compressor. Keep the bags coated with something like fluid film seems to have worked well for me - no cracking ever.

Front struts and rear shocks are electronic, so they cost more to replace, but if yiu can DIY, then its not too bad. The factory ride is awesome, I'd never delete it if I were you.

 

[Charlie207]

delete the transmission thermostat that cooks the Torque Converter.

This generation of 6L80s (GMT900s) doesn't have the thermostat built into the cooler lines. 2014+ trucks and 2015+ SUVs did, so it's not an issue for our rigs. Replacing the JMBX converter is a good idea.

 

[B-train]

This generation of 6L80s (GMT900s) doesn't have the thermostat built into the cooler lines. 2014+ trucks and 2015+ SUVs did, so it's not an issue for our rigs. Replacing the JMBX converter is a good idea.

Good to know. I was wrong on my years of assumption.... better for OP then!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

The guy said this one has air ride in the back. Is that something that might cost a fortune to replace or fix?

Under $400 each for the air shocks and under $300 for the compressor.

 

[thefrey]

There is a good chance the driver side motor mount is shot. This is super common. You can check this by either powerbraking the engine in drive and watching the engine to see excessive movement, or if you hit the gas hard while driving it and feel a clunk, it is ready to be replaced.

Check the oil pressure when cold, while the engine is warmed up and cruising, and while at idle when hot. This can help give you an indication of the health of the engine.

Oil cooler lines weep, they may need replaced soon if they are leaking.

AFM is something to figure out. You may be lucky if you do frequent oil changes and disable it via tuning or a plug-in device, but you may need to consider doing a DOD delete down the road.

These vehicles are fairly easy to work on, and there's a good amount of room for activities. If you are a DIY mechanic, no sweat, but dealer/shop prices can get expensive quick depending on how well the vehicle was maintained before you.

Also, the AWD system eats gas mileage compared to selectable 4x4 or RWD, and I get 15-16mpg on the highway cruising at about 80. Also, you should run premium. Gas isn't cheap for these, just something to keep in mind. I also have a lead foot, but it's hard not to have one with the 6.2

 

[thedog52]

Thank you for all of your input guys!

 

[thedog52]

There is a good chance the driver side motor mount is shot. This is super common. You can check this by either powerbraking the engine in drive and watching the engine to see excessive movement, or if you hit the gas hard while driving it and feel a clunk, it is ready to be replaced.

Check the oil pressure when cold, while the engine is warmed up and cruising, and while at idle when hot. This can help give you an indication of the health of the engine.

Oil cooler lines weep, they may need replaced soon if they are leaking.

AFM is something to figure out. You may be lucky if you do frequent oil changes and disable it via tuning or a plug-in device, but you may need to consider doing a DOD delete down the road.

These vehicles are fairly easy to work on, and there's a good amount of room for activities. If you are a DIY mechanic, no sweat, but dealer/shop prices can get expensive quick depending on how well the vehicle was maintained before you.

Also, the AWD system eats gas mileage compared to selectable 4x4 or RWD, and I get 15-16mpg on the highway cruising at about 80. Also, you should run premium. Gas isn't cheap for these, just something to keep in mind. I also have a lead foot, but it's hard not to have one with the 6.2

Speaking of oil pressure you just reminded me......Pickup tube O rings go bad. I had to tear into my 2012 GMC sierra last year because it was only making 15 PSI at 2500 RPM.....Definite need to watch cold and hot oil pressure.

Oddly enough, my Sierra on cold start has 55lbs of pressure. Once its been driven for longer than 30 mins in gear it sits at 20 while idling, typically wont go above 40 after warm. Its also got 220k miles and was a heavy equipment hauler majority of its life. Sounds like a box of marbles on startup but she still keeps going.

 

[Sir_Hiro]

Speaking of oil pressure you just reminded me......Pickup tube O rings go bad. I had to tear into my 2012 GMC sierra last year because it was only making 15 PSI at 2500 RPM.....Definite need to watch cold and hot oil pressure.

Oddly enough, my Sierra on cold start has 55lbs of pressure. Once its been driven for longer than 30 mins in gear it sits at 20 while idling, typically wont go above 40 after warm. Its also got 220k miles and was a heavy equipment hauler majority of its life. Sounds like a box of marbles on startup but she still keeps going.

My 10 Yukon has a bad Oring when I bought it. 20-25 PSI when warm. I put 10w30 in it and now it maintains 35-40PSI when warm. Its on my list of things to do if I ever need to drop the pan..but I'm happy with the pressure now.

 

[intheburbs]

When I bought my 09 Sierra Denali, we put it on a rack and the front pinion seal was leaking. I had the selling dealership fix it before I signed the bill of sale.

Just understand that the AWD system has more moving parts, so more stuff to wear out. And that extra moving stuff has resistance that contributes to a commensurate decline in gas mileage. My Denali became a bit of a money pit as it passed 125k. Had to replace an axle half-shaft, and then the front diff died around 145k.

Maintenance history is key. Not just oil changes. There should be records of multiple axle fluid changes, transfer case fluid, transmission fluid, etc.

Leaks, rust and good maintenance are the three things to look for. Cooler lines tend to start weeping around that age - a Denali should have all the coolers.

 

[Eighthtry]

2011 Yukon Denali XL - 203,000 miles. Replaced rear load leveling MagnaRides and compressor. Replaced two broken front driver side exhaust manifold bolts (known issue), 6.2 performed flawlessly even with the screwy lifters, and we could pass cars on the rural roads with ease. V4/V8? But it worked for me. Those miles include about 350 miles late in life at 90 mph on a bypass around Austin. Changed belts, thermostat, coolant, and hoses at 100,000 miles. No front end work other than upgrade to heavier sway bar. No rear end work other than add a rear sway bar (I recommend both). I changed Amsoil filters every 5,000 miles and Amsoil 5-30 every 10,000 miles. It used zero oil between changes. Serviced the transmission twice with Amsoil. Serviced drive axles twice with Amsoil. Absolutely nothing broke otherwise. Did brakes twice with GM replacement rotors and pads. Transmission shifted like a dream. I put some good road miles on vacations, otherwise it was mostly freeway/highway traveling in the Dallas/Fort Worth area. Sold it because I was retiring and about to put some serious road miles on it. I figured something was about to break 1500 miles from home.

So bought a 2023 and put it on the road until it was totaled when I hit a pair of tandem wheels and a brake drum at 75 mph. I figured the wheels were running about 30-40 mp. Head on at a slight angle. No reactiion time, so no evasive manuevering or braking. Spun us around, then off the right hand side of road up an embankment. All air bags blew. I had a broken rib, wife had a long ablasion, probably from the steering wheel. It was a dead serious accident in a dead serious big car. If you must have an accident that is the car to have it in. Anything smaller could have been deadly. It probably saved me the 6.2 headaches, which is a positive.

The wife was in the responding fire truck booking a flight to New Orleans for the next morning. Going to the WWII museum. Well worth the time. I spent 2 1/2 days and did not see all of it.

Similar experience with 85 Suburban, 2000 Suburban, and of course the 2011 described above.

Recommendation? Buy it but do a thorough inspection. Those were great years.

 

[georgerenner]

I am looking to buy a 2011 Yukon Denali. For some reason these are less expensive in my area compared to Tahoes. I know they are AWD, Correct? Is the AWD system reliable? The one I am looking at has 120k miles. No paperwork on it but it appears it has been maintained very well. The AWD system is something I am not familiar with, and Im not sure if there is anything else I should be on the lookout for. Please give me some advice on what is different and what can be problematic.

I had a 09 Tahoe for awhile and it was awesome, never had any issues but it also was not as fancy as a Denali. I would prefer a Tahoe but I am having a hard time finding one in my price range that doesnt already have 200k miles.

Read the posts for all the good info! I love my 2011 Yukon Denali with the 6.2. The weakness of the tranny is known and should be considered. Carfax with info on it is also important. The carfax showed mine was a one owner with 154,000 miles on it, and with a service record from the selling dealer. My tranny did go out and I had it rebuilt at a reputable shop. They installed the billet torque converter and other goodies and gave me a 3 year/36,000 mile warranty! They also tuned the ecm eliminating the AFM from the software and put in transmission software. I left the shop with the smile of knowing if my engine decided to go then I could drop in my 600hp dream rebuild! So now I have a quick shifting Yukon that is absolutely fun to drive and I drive it like it doesn't have afm lifters! Gas mileage at premium is 15+ and the AWD is always there always working. I have never had a problem with these systems yet. I change the oil regularly and use Valvoline restore. I also do regular maintenance myself. Show me the Carfax and I'll tell you what I think, but 120.000 miles is very interesting! What color is it? Mine is Red Jewel Tint, and I purchased this particular one also, because the paint was mint and my color! God bless!

 

[petethepug]

* 07-09 Denali No AFM
* 09-14 Denali has rare 2WD option
* All Denali have 6SP & 6.2L.
* All 07-14 Denali have autoride (hydraulic - NOT Magnetic) active suspension w/ rear intigrated bags for auto leveling.
* All Autoride & Magneride (09-14 Esky & 09-13 hybrid Denali) OEM replacements struts have lifetime guarantee.

Also look at 07-09 Esky as they have 403hp 6.2L (No AFM) unlike the 07/08 non AFM 385hp Denali. 07-10 Esky has true refrigerated front seats, not ventalated. Superior headlamps and better front door card design without the airbag in seats.

09 Esky & Denali are the sweet spot w Non AFM 6.2L motor that runs e85. Both have rare optional 2WD and 09/10 Denali have uncommon optional a/c seats. Long road options for both are 10SP Trans swap when due

 

[SpareParts]

I have checked into the difference between the 385HP and 403HP engines. From what i was told on Hp Tuners the difference is in the tune.

This is from Hp Tuners forum.
"Comparing several stock 07 Yukon and 07 Escalade files only one table I see different that would account for any HP increase in the Escalade are the values in this one table. The pic shows show how much less timing the Yukon has in PE mode vs the Escalade and only at 5200 rpm and higher. All the other timing and fuel tables are the same. Most tuners would zero that table and tune the main spark tables for performance anyway"

 

[testdepth]

I've got a 2012 Yukon Denali XL 2WD with all the bells and whistles I'm selling. We need a 4wd where we are going. 172000 miles in white diamond pearl paint.