Have hot air coming out passenger side. Left side works normal. Replaced actuator under dash and no change. If I manually move the door I can get cold on both sides. My understanding now is that the one under the dash on passenger side controls the air temp on driver side. Is that correct? This would make sense why a new actuator didn’t change things but I’m confused that manually manipulating the door would allow cool or hot air on the passenger side. Where would be the actuator for the passenger side temp control and how is the best way to access and change if that is the case?
Hot air passenger side only
- Thread starter MRPRO
- Start date
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
The passenger side actuator is directly above the driver's side one, under the dash on top. Just a 1/2 foot or so from the recirc actuator, also under the top of the dash.
Thanks. Are all the actuators the same part or are there some different ones?
Those stupid electric air blend door motors are a PITA. So there are usually different part numbers depending on its location. I have found when they are not working properly they continue to "knock" and usually you can put your hand on the proper motor and feel if it is "knocking".
The MAIN thing I found when working on these stupid blend motors is often the female terminal inside the connector that plugs into the blend door motor open slightly and become loose and will not make proper connection. Sometimes the problem is the female terminals and not the blend motor. While they are a PITA to take apart and remove the female teminals, I have fixed MANY GM models both cars and trucks in the 2000-2007 model years by just removing the female teminals and slightly squeezing them closed with a small pair of plyers. One you get the terminals out of the connector, you can put them on the pins in the blend door motor and you will feel they barely grab the square male pins in the blend door motors.
I would put money on the female terminals over the blend door motor based on my findings.
The MAIN thing I found when working on these stupid blend motors is often the female terminal inside the connector that plugs into the blend door motor open slightly and become loose and will not make proper connection. Sometimes the problem is the female terminals and not the blend motor. While they are a PITA to take apart and remove the female teminals, I have fixed MANY GM models both cars and trucks in the 2000-2007 model years by just removing the female teminals and slightly squeezing them closed with a small pair of plyers. One you get the terminals out of the connector, you can put them on the pins in the blend door motor and you will feel they barely grab the square male pins in the blend door motors.
I would put money on the female terminals over the blend door motor based on my findings.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Watched the video very helpful. Mentions it being an 8 mm which it’s not. It’s a 5.5 or 7/32. I have the vents, airbag and glovebox out. Not sure how they were able to access the inner bolt using this method. I can’t get or fit anything in that space with the angles and tight fights. Any suggestions? If I could get the ducting out of the way I would be good.
On the top blend door, most people just cut the duct running under the dash in half and taped it back together. Not sure if this is the duct that is in your way.
I usually find the part number on the actuator as the listings are so vague and misleading.
I usually find the part number on the actuator as the listings are so vague and misleading.
mattbta
Full Access Member
I took the dash cover off but still had to pry up on the vent to get the actuator R&R.
