Horrible "death wobble" after new wheels/tires?

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wafflecakes13

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I have keys turned slightly up, front is about an inch higher than the rear. Brand new 33x12.50s on 22x12s. Ever since i got the new setup on it hasn't been on the highway much. Last week after I had been going 70mph for about 15 mins, the truck basically started steering itself and I could hardly control it. I took it in and all they saw wrong was play in a wheel bearing so I got it replaced. Today on the highway at almost the same location it happened again and I thought I was going to sideswipe a semi. All steering and front suspension components are new. The only thing I can think of is after going so fast for a long enough time the problem gets bad enough that it starts to lose control like that. Needing a steering stabilizer is all I can think of. Each wheel and tire together is about 110 lbs. The old setup was maybe around 60-70. Anyone have some experience with this?
 

M1Gunner

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You definitely have something goin on... I'm runnin 37 13.50's and I don't have any wobble at all period. Can you describe this death wobble any more in detail? For example is it just in the steering wheel that you feel it or is it in the seat. Is it side to side or up and down. Is it a soft or harsh vibration too?

What you're describing though doesn't sound like anything a steering stabilizer will help with. Those are for bumps off road that jerk your steering wheel from side to side "bump steer". Not for blacktop drive improvement.
 
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wafflecakes13

wafflecakes13

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The whole vehicle started to sway side to side, like out of nowhere swerve hard from side to side. Me counter-steering did almost nothing to help and I want to say hard braking even made it worse. It's just wild because it will only do it after being up at a higher speed for more than just a few minutes. On the way home taking the same highway I kept it under 60mph and it handled fine.
 

M1Gunner

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The whole vehicle started to sway side to side, like out of nowhere swerve hard from side to side. Me counter-steering did almost nothing to help and I want to say hard braking even made it worse. It's just wild because it will only do it after being up at a higher speed for more than just a few minutes. On the way home taking the same highway I kept it under 60mph and it handled fine.

So you said everything up front is pretty much brand new. I would double check to make sure everything is still tight. Which you probably already have. Everything including bushings for your sway bar.

After double checking the front I would most definitely check the rear. Again with the sway bar, links and bushings. Don't forget to look over the panhard rail close too. I don't know how rough you get with it off-road but check the welds to the panhard rail mount on the axle and the frame. Anything is loose or fouled with it and a slight breeze going those speeds (or wind from passing a semi) will send you for a ride.
 

yates ™

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A steering stabilizer on an IFS is a bandaid :imo:. My old Chevy was lifted 12" on 40x15.5 Toyos on x14 wheels with no stabilizer/s and didn't need one. You have the front cranked for 33s on x12s which means it is cranked pretty high. When cranked that high you have very little if any suspension travel. Did you run longer end links? If not your sway bar is not working correctly.

I would look at your setup before adding more parts.
 
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wafflecakes13

wafflecakes13

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I haven't been able to find longer end links. I have the energy suspension bushings.
 
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wafflecakes13

wafflecakes13

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That part number brought up air filters for a lawn mower or something
 

YukonandtheHOE

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clapped out rear shocks? That would cause alot of body roll. 2500hd truck stabblinks will bolt right in 1.5 inch longer about.
 
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wafflecakes13

wafflecakes13

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Dealership did say I had a rear shock "leaking." Here is pics of the front sway
20170630_103213.jpg


20170630_103158.jpg
 

yates ™

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Looks fairly cranked. How much room between your your control arm and droop stop? Stock shocks?

I am also guessing decranking at all it's not an option? Was this cranked this high prior to the new wheels and tires? A wider wheel and tire can catch the inconsistenties in the road a little more than a skinnier tire so you may have had an issue before and it is now amplified.
 
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wafflecakes13

wafflecakes13

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Looks fairly cranked. How much room between your your control arm and droop stop? Stock shocks?

I am also guessing decranking at all it's not an option? Was this cranked this high prior to the new wheels and tires? A wider wheel and tire can catch the inconsistenties in the road a little more than a skinnier tire so you may have had an issue before and it is now amplified.
 
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wafflecakes13

wafflecakes13

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I've had it cranked higher than this on my old factory set up. New wheels/tires are definitely playing a big role. Very close to droop stops. I've trimmed almost as much as I can see possible.
 

yates ™

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My two cents is that you're over cranked and that is causing your issue.
 
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wafflecakes13

wafflecakes13

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Maybe the crank plus the newly added weight, cuz ive went 80mph with it cranked higher than this with no issue before.
 
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wafflecakes13

wafflecakes13

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So I discovered something that may or may not be unrelated on my way home tonight. I think I mentioned earlier that when I slammed on the brakes it seemed to get worse. Without any apparent "wobble" riding fine doin about 40mph I hit the brakes pretty hard and it nosedived towards the passenger side. I tested it a few times with the same result. Maybe the need for the longer sway bar end links? Or shocks? Pretty weird stuff
 
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wafflecakes13

wafflecakes13

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Could this axles being angled this hard be causing it? I figured the angel would cause premature wear but didnt know if it could be binding up or something.
20170702_194924.jpg
 

Eric70

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The fastes way to check if it's the way the truck is currently set at, switch to a set of stock size or something close, then road test over the same road.
 

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