As a little frame of reference I am an ASE certified master tech. Given that I do not see what truck you have I would assume that it's a 07 or later given that the dash is telling your transmission fluid temps. Your transmission fluid temps are NOT out of line for a vehicle towing a heavy load. In my opinion the transmission coolers on these vehicles are quite adequate. As an aside I placed an additional transmission cooler on a 2010 Yukon Dinali utilizing the factory Kohler and the additional cooler in the transmission fluid temperatures went down less than 5°. That imho is NOT an indication that the factory cooler is insufficient. The amount of work the transmission is doing is going to creat heat, there is no way around that, thus these vehicles use synthetic transmission fluid which contends with this heat without breaking down like conventional fluid tends too. Now to your problem, I think someone already stated that you likely have a fuel supply issue, this too me makes a lot of sense. Working a vehicle like this will cause under hood temps to soar, thus vaporizing the fuel in the lines. This issue is exacerbated by fuel with a high ethanol content. Try the fuel line wrap, and see if this addresses your issue.
Help! 07 Yukon died on side of road!
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As a little frame of reference I am an ASE certified master tech. Given that I do not see what truck you have I would assume that it's a 07 or later given that the dash is telling your transmission fluid temps. Your transmission fluid temps are NOT out of line for a vehicle towing a heavy load. In my opinion the transmission coolers on these vehicles are quite adequate. As an aside I placed an additional transmission cooler on a 2010 Yukon Dinali utilizing the factory Kohler and the additional cooler in the transmission fluid temperatures went down less than 5°. That imho is NOT an indication that the factory cooler is insufficient. The amount of work the transmission is doing is going to creat heat, there is no way around that, thus these vehicles use synthetic transmission fluid which contends with this heat without breaking down like conventional fluid tends too. Now to your problem, I think someone already stated that you likely have a fuel supply issue, this too me makes a lot of sense. Working a vehicle like this will cause under hood temps to soar, thus vaporizing the fuel in the lines. This issue is exacerbated by fuel with a high ethanol content. Try the fuel line wrap, and see if this addresses your issue.
Kenny D
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I had a 93 S10 that was so worn out that it had 0-5psi oil pressure at idle once warm. I used Lucas at each oil change and it worked for that too. Kept my pressure to 20 at idle from then on.
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
We don't know which engine he has so the theory of variable valve timing may not apply.
My 2008 Suburban LTZ with the LMG 5.3L doesn't have VVT. I don't believe VVT was available until 2010 on the 5.3L.
My 2008 Suburban LTZ with the LMG 5.3L doesn't have VVT. I don't believe VVT was available until 2010 on the 5.3L.
Paul Brambilla
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Yep. 07 Denali 6.2. just a quick update. Not only did I make it over the pass, I did so with ease. The trans temps were rock solid at around 160 the entire time! It maxed out at 170 just as I crested.
Why so much better this time? It seems the combination of tow haul mode plus manually selecting my gears was the sweet spot for me.
All that said, I still have the issue with rough idle and potential stalls after pulling off the highway. I did have to do the two pedal dance a few times.
As of this point, I'm less concerned about transmission temps than I am about solving the stall issue. I might give that Lucas treatment a try next.
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Paul Brambilla
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Do you think I need an entire quart of the Lucas of can I just add a small bottle without draining any oil? I just replaced the oil a few weeks ago.
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iamdub
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So, you were originally towing that 6,000-lb trailer NOT in tow/haul mode? That poor transmission...
Paul Brambilla
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I was, but I was in drive, not manually selecting gears. For me, that just wasn't good enough.
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iamdub
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Staying out of overdrive when towing is far better than manually shifting. One of the features of tow/haul mode is delayed shifts, so that part is pretty well covered. It's cruising at speed in OD with the weight that causes the extra strain and heat.
Paul Brambilla
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Overdrive is off in either case so long as tow haul is turned on right? In my case tow haul in regular drive was causing issues. I was having trouble getting it to switch into 4th gear so my rpms were near 5000. Is that normal? Tow haul + M was working fantastic. At about 3k rpms I'd simply switch up to 4th and the temp never rose above 170. I was able to cruise up the mountain at about 55 miles per hour holding RPMs at about 2500. I never attempted to switch into 5th while climbing.
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Yes, it would be best for the full quart. you'd get better results.
swathdiver
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Glad you all made it through safely. The computers cannot do everything perfectly, it's nice to have the Tow-Haul Mode and the Manual shift option for increased control.
iamdub
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I can't say for sure about the 6-speed. Mine is a 4-speed/5.3 and it'll still do OD in tow/haul mode if the engine load is low enough, but I've never towed anything more than a 300-lb wire mesh trailer with an 800-lb lawnmower on it. Since the 6-speed has more gears, maybe it stays out of 6th but still uses 5th?
When it was staying near 5,000 RPM, was that in 3rd and pulling slowly up an incline? If it was stuck in 3rd while cruising at a steady speed on a relatively flat road, then something was wrong. With that amount of load and in tow/haul mode, it should hold the gear until around 3,000 RPM unless you're being very light on the throttle. Regardless if you're manually shifting or not, just stay out of OD when towing that much weight. Sounds like you got it figured out, though.
As for the stalling, I as well would put my bet on the higher temps vaporizing the fuel and agree with Ken on his recommendation to insulate the fuel lines. It's relatively cheap insurance. The oil additive couldn't hurt, either.
Paul Brambilla
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I've been doing some experimenting on the stall issue the last few days and although it certainly may have been vapor lock, I actually think mixup52 may be right about the worn cam bearings / oil viscosity. Even without the trailer attached and temps not very hot, I've been running up and down the freeway and letting my RPM's run a bit higher (as if I was towing). After just a few miles doing this, as soon as I pull off the highway and pull up to a stop light, often the "stabilitrak/traction control" message will pop up and it will start to idle rough and seem to have trouble staying running. As soon as I pull back on the highway, things clear up and the message goes away. If I let the truck sit for awhile and start it back up, that too will clear things up.
To me it seems to match pretty much exactly what mixup52 mentioned a few pages back. At this point I have a few options:
1. Try the Lucas Oil addative
2. Take advantage of the one month left on my limited power train warranty and see if I can get them to actually agree with me on the root cause. If it truly is worn cam bearings, they'd have to rebuild right?
What are the odds I could actually convince a mechanic of this?
To me it seems to match pretty much exactly what mixup52 mentioned a few pages back. At this point I have a few options:
1. Try the Lucas Oil addative
2. Take advantage of the one month left on my limited power train warranty and see if I can get them to actually agree with me on the root cause. If it truly is worn cam bearings, they'd have to rebuild right?
What are the odds I could actually convince a mechanic of this?
I feel that would be a ******* for the warranty company to approve with no real evidence.
The Stabilitrak light has to do with the cams and p0011 error code, it puts the trans in protection mode and you'll notice hard shifts with that light is on. I bet you $100 bucks that if you pulled the code when that stabilitrak light comes on, you would have a pending p0011 waiting to turn the CEL on. Give the lucas a try and your issues will go away. Before I found Lucas oil treatment, I used the STP oil treatment and 10 40, that helped a little bit except for extreme heat of the summer, I live in UT so summers get over a 100 degrees. In the summer, it would still stall, but since I have used Lucas, no issues except for the Stabilitrak light pops on every now and again. I have around 215K on my vehicle .
Ive been foghting this p0011 code on an escalade 6.2 07 truck runs drives great even with stabilitrac, heres what ive done
Changed oil pickup tube seal, before this the truck was only holding 10psi oil presure
Changed magnet
Changed bolt or actuator whatever u wana call it.
Added lucas
Now the truck runs great but at random throws the stabilitrac light and goes away on its own. But if u scan i have intermetint p0011 code anyone have any other ideals truck runs great now hasnt stalled but scared to drive it haa forgot to mention too before i took oil pan down and did the pickup tube seal, it would stall at red lights and not start for 45 min until cool cool now it hasnt stalled at least in 250 miles but it still random throws code p0011 and stabilitrac light
Changed oil pickup tube seal, before this the truck was only holding 10psi oil presure
Changed magnet
Changed bolt or actuator whatever u wana call it.
Added lucas
Now the truck runs great but at random throws the stabilitrac light and goes away on its own. But if u scan i have intermetint p0011 code anyone have any other ideals truck runs great now hasnt stalled but scared to drive it haa forgot to mention too before i took oil pan down and did the pickup tube seal, it would stall at red lights and not start for 45 min until cool cool now it hasnt stalled at least in 250 miles but it still random throws code p0011 and stabilitrac light
I know exactly what you are going through. I am going to add another 1/2 bottle of lucas next time. But I can tell you that you will not have to worry about it stalling out with Lucas.
I've been running with it for the past 6 months, no issues except the stabilitrak light popping up every now and then.
Paul Brambilla
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Have you also replaced your camshaft position sensor? I'm thinking that might also play a role here right?
Thats crazy ya it deffintly has not and im half tempted to drain a quart and add another haa i run licas in my duramax 08 every change but was werry putting in the vvt motor as the 5w30 is thin really, it has 100 percent run great since i either A. THE OIL SEAL FIXED IT OR B. THE LUCAS HAS DONE THE TRICK now hearing ur story of doing nothing BUT lucas... with same exact symtoms...im gona bet the lucas did the trick. I mayyy go ahead and add a bit more.. i was already in worse case zone so whats a little more gona hurt....i can 100 percent say tho 250 300 miles, no stalling not a shutter shimmy or nothing. Also too, i do not get any tranny shift issues with stabilitrac light like others have reported its on for 10 min and goes off, usualy intown driving only, hiway will go for days with no stabilitrac light
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