H.O. alternator swap

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gibsonm21

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H.O. alternator swap/Dual alt kit install pg.2

This will probably be my only tech write up I do because it deals with electronics. Anyways, my electrical system could not hold the necessary voltage so I decided to upgrade my alt.

Iraggi 300 amp alt
CIMG1597.jpg


OEM on the left/new alt on right
CIMG1604.jpg


Pic of serpentine belt lay out
CIMG1607.jpg


Pic of the Serpentine belt tensioner on the far left
CIMG1601.jpg

CIMG1602.jpg


Alternator bracket
CIMG1605.jpg


New Alternator installed
CIMG1607.jpg


tools used were a 15mm/10mm/5/8" socket

- 15mm for depressing the belt tensioner.
- 5/8" for removing the mounting bolts
- 10mm for removing the positive nut on the alt.

From start to finish, the swap out took an hour and that included running to autozone to pick up a socket and I am a novice. When/if/even if you don't upgrade your alternator, it is recomended that you upgrade your charging leads(Big 3)(the red 0 gauge wires you see) if you run a heavy electrical load.
 
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07warwagon

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Why wouldn't u just use a kinetik stereo battery? They are an alternate solution to changing the alternator.
 

yukon23

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No response yet on where you got the alt ? I am running 4 dry cell batteries under the hood ( a little overkill I know but I was boored and had 2 yellow and 2 red tops ) and that alt would be perfect for my 2nd alt. If you can lead us in the right direction im sure we would all appreciate it.
 
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gibsonm21

gibsonm21

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Thanks Steve,

And no, I didn't have to change the belt.

---------- Post added at 02:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:09 PM ----------

Thanks Steve,

And no, I didn't have to change the belt.
 
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gibsonm21

gibsonm21

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Yes, I see a huge difference with the new alt. Before with the stock alt, I did not have the current to charge my batteries and play my system at 3/4 volume. Now I can play at full volume and not see my volt meter drop.

The only caveat to the alt is its the lower grade series and while I see more amps at idle than my stock alt, If i crank my system at idle, my voltage will drop, but at 2k rpm, I stay at 14 volts.
 
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jz57

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That so-called 300A alternator may be not a real one. The tricky is the smaller pulley, which make the alternator spin faster at idle and generate more juice at lower engine RPM.

The trade off is reducing the alternator life-span. At high alternator RPM, the brush and slip ring can be wear out at short time.

The one you bought has same casing size as OEM one, so the stator winding can not be bigger than OEM's, and the winding can not be made with thicker wire.

Also, when alternator out put reach above 200Amp, the pulley should be clutch style, otherwise the rotor could shot in short time.

Take a look at clutch pulley of Ford Crown Victoria Police cruiser, the alternator is 260 Amp.
 

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