GeorgeB’s 2013 Suburban LTZ “Fin”

[George B]

I did almost all of it from the top except for one bolt. I had to take the steering shaft out to get the new mount in. If I would’ve used a factory original mount I would’ve been able to put it in in pieces and bolted together without taking the steering shaft out. In all this was pretty easy. This mount was changed before. There was anti-seize on the frame side bolts.

 

[89Suburban]

You the man!! Good job bro!!!

 

[George B]

I would say that I can feel slightly more engine vibration at idle in gear. But… now when the trans shifts out of first at WOT it puts you back in your seat like it is supposed too.

I just don’t understand why the original mount broke…

 

[George B]

That’s where I’m at right now. My drivers side was replaced last year when it was in for inspection so I didn’t have to dick with it. Phew.

What do you think the results would be of just leaving it that way?

 

[89Suburban]

What do you think the results would be of just leaving it that way?

Leaving the broken one in or just replacing the one side? The broke one bent replaced made a HUGE difference. I didn’t even know it was broken, my mechanic picked it off. I was so used to how it drove I didn’t even think of it. Once it was replaced I realized I did have a huge clunk on accelerating that disappeared and she felt so much better to drive.

I’m not so worried about the pass side because that seems to be the “pivot “ side. All has been fine so far.

 

[George B]

Leaving the broken one in or just replacing the one side? The broke one bent replaced made a HUGE difference. I didn’t even know it was broken, my mechanic picked it off. I was so used to how it drove I didn’t even think of it. Once it was replaced I realized I did have a huge clunk on accelerating that disappeared and she felt so much better to drive.

I’m not so worried about the pass side because that seems to be the “pivot “ side. All has been fine so far.

I mean to just change the broken drivers side and leave the rest.

I might change the other one someday but not making a special effort

 

[gooffeyguy]

If it ain't broke......


My drivers side mount died a couple years ago and I replaced it with the Hummer mount. Passenger mount is still the old one.

 

[George B]

Happy Birthday!

 

[George B]

Anyone have a part number for the thin walled wiper tubing that runs up inside the rear wiper arm?

 

[George B]

That escalated quickly.
Went to change the $2 hose on the rear wiper arm. I figured I could do it with the arm on the truck but wanted to take it off. Of course it is stuck on the shaft so I attempt to change the hose on the arm. Getting the old hose off was easy. It wasn't easy to get it onto the nozzle with the blade on so I went to pop the blade off snd it broke. Ok, must have been brittle. Next I figured I could pop the nozzle off to get the hose onto it. Nope! One of the keepers on the arm broke. Oops! Ok we will super glue it on after installing the hose. I cut the hose to the same length as the original as best I could and proceed. I glued the nozzle and ran the hose. Too short! It pops the cover off when it sweeps. Shit! So I stretch the hose an put it back on and its better. But now the cap for over the nut is loose because I damaged the back of the arm prying to get it off. So I push on the cap keeper a bit and it snaps off. This is ********!

Sitting in the house thinking about buying a puller for the arm when I get the idea. Slice a washer open so my puller fits. Back out to the shop in my crocks and tada! If I would have thought of it sooner!

 

[George B]

That, my friends is how a $2 hose turns into $60 on a wiper arm and blade. Buying a GM arm and Delco blade. Don’t want to buy aftermarket twice…

 

[George B]

That, my friends is how a $2 hose turns into $60 on a wiper arm and blade. Buying a GM arm and Delco blade. Don’t want to buy aftermarket twice…

I can’t justify this. I cancelled my amazon orders. I stretched the hose more so it would be long enough and did a good job gluing the nozzle back on. I reinstalled the arm and added a bit of hot glue to keep the stupid cap retained. Will pickup a $10 blade locally and put it on. I will run that as long as it lasts and then see about a new arm.

Edit:
I thought I would try to fix this for a temporary repair but I can’t cancel my orders.

Bedtime!

 

[George B]

Just realized that Ol’ McDummy installed the hose in the wrong direction. I didn’t cut it too short. Sometimes I think I have a mental issue!

 

[George B]

I have everything back together temporarily for now. My new arm and wiper are due on the 30th and have free returns. My gut tells me to just install the new stuff when it arrives and call it good. if all that plastic was so brittle that it broke so easily I feel like the arm is near the end of it's life anyway. If I don't replace it I bet it fails at the most inconvenient time.

 

[gooffeyguy]

I've read that the wiper arm comes with no splines where it mounts and only the shaft has splines and they cut into the softer metal on the arm when tightening down the nut. That's what makes them so hard to get off and needs a puller.

 

[George B]

I've read that the wiper arm comes with no splines where it mounts and only the shaft has splines and they cut into the softer metal on the arm when tightening down the nut. That's what makes them so hard to get off and needs a puller.

I gathered as much too. I have never needed a puller before but am considering buying one now.

Those wheels look good on your truck BTW.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

I've read that the wiper arm comes with no splines where it mounts and only the shaft has splines and they cut into the softer metal on the arm when tightening down the nut. That's what makes them so hard to get off and needs a puller.

Mine was stuck pretty good, don't remember how I ended up getting it off, but no puller or hammer was used.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Throw the new parts on it. You won't regret it.

 

[George B]

Did a oil change yesterday and shook the front down for slop. Have a very slight hardly noticeable “bump” when shaking the right front to check steering components. No noticeable movement in the outer tie rod end. Might be the inner or could be the rack. I can’t make it happen from the left side. I think I will just monitor it for change over the summer. Everything else is GTG.

Question:
How many miles you all getting before a front refresh? I know its coming and have a cart full at RA just to track PNs for now. I was hoping for another year. I average 14,000 miles a year.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Did a oil change yesterday and shook the front down for slop. Have a very slight hardly noticeable “bump” when shaking the right front to check steering components. No noticeable movement in the outer tie rod end. Might be the inner or could be the rack. I can’t make it happen from the left side. I think I will just monitor it for change over the summer. Everything else is GTG.

Question:
How many miles you all getting before a front refresh? I know its coming and have a cart full at RA just to track PNs for now. I was hoping for another year. I average 14,000 miles a year.

I just did mine in October at 138k. I had bad upper/lower ball joints and a bad inner tie rod. I replaced entire control arms both upper and lower and inner/outer tie rods on both sides. The wheel bearings are still good, so didn't mess with them, but the front brake pads were toast so replaced the pads and rotors a couple weeks later.