Front Swaybar Qustion

[EddieC]

On an '08 Tahoe to change or work on the front sway bar system, can the truck be raised on just one side or does it need to be lifted on both left and right sides? The question is about what effect raising one side might have on any parts alignment.
Looking at replacing the bushings and repairing one of the anchor seats on the frame.

 

[Charlie207]

On an '08 Tahoe to change or work on the front sway bar system, can the truck be raised on just one side or does it need to be lifted on both left and right sides? The question is about what effect raising one side might have on any parts alignment.
Looking at replacing the bushings and repairing one of the anchor seats on the frame.

Lifting only one side at a time will put a lot of tension on the end-link (and lower control-arm) of the side that is jacked up, making it really hard to get the inner frame clamps off easily.

Is there a reason you only want to lift one side at a time? You CAN do all the work with the truck on the ground if you fit, or drive up on ramps. (I use Rhino Ramps, or whatever AutoZone sells, for extra clearance, but I can fit under the vehicle without lifting it up.)

My suggestion would be to undo the outer end-links while both wheels are on the ground, before jacking anything up. You might need to turn each wheel to full lock to access the link bolted through the lower control-arm if you can't shimmy under there.

 

[EddieC]

Lifting only one side at a time will put a lot of tension on the end-link (and lower control-arm) of the side that is jacked up, making it really hard to get the inner frame clamps off easily.

Is there a reason you only want to lift one side at a time? You CAN do all the work with the truck on the ground if you fit, or drive up on ramps. (I use Rhino Ramps, or whatever AutoZone sells, for extra clearance, but I can fit under the vehicle without lifting it up.)

My suggestion would be to undo the outer end-links while both wheels are on the ground, before jacking anything up. You might need to turn each wheel to full lock to access the link bolted through the lower control-arm if you can't shimmy under there.

We need to work on one of the bushing attachments at its frame rail so I thought I'd ask before charging in. Jacking clearance in the garage may be tight on the other side.

Welding is involved so ramps may not be high enough.

 

[EddieC]

What are the consequences of eliminating the sway bar?

 

[Doubeleive]

What are the consequences of eliminating the sway bar?

more sway and typically it would be no issue at all if you are just moving it around or driving normal, and to answer the initial question with the front wheels on the ground the front sway bar will have a load on it, the rear is the opposite with the rear sway bar it is unloaded with wheels on the ground.
you CAN do the front with wheels on the ground but you are going to be fighting it the whole way and is why people complain about the end links not fitting properly because they do not comprehend force and how it works.

 

[Charlie207]

We need to work on one of the bushing attachments at its frame rail so I thought I'd ask before charging in. Jacking clearance in the garage may be tight on the other side.

Welding is involved so ramps may not be high enough.

Just get some ramps.

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[EddieC]

Just get some ramps.

FloTool 16,000lb Capacity Rhino Ramp Max

Shop for FloTool 16,000lb Capacity Rhino Ramp Max with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.

www.autozone.com

I have ramps.

 

[EddieC]

more sway and typically it would be no issue at all if you are just moving it around or driving normal, and to answer the initial question with the front wheels on the ground the front sway bar will have a load on it, the rear is the opposite with the rear sway bar it is unloaded with wheels on the ground.
you CAN do the front with wheels on the ground but you are going to be fighting it the whole way and is why people complain about the end links not fitting properly because they do not comprehend force and how it works.

Wes,
Are you saying to work on the bar with the wheels unloaded so not on ramps?
Charlie suggested undoing links while weighted then jack up.

Overall what is your suggested approach?

The objective is to repair a cracked frame bracket at one of the sway bar bushings. It may or may not include replacing both bushings depending if the bolts will come out. One side definitely where the repair is needed.
The links are original but don't appear distressed. Replacement is not ruled out but a secondary to the repair.

 

[Scrappycrow]

What are the consequences of eliminating the sway bar?

As already mentioned, you'll have more body lean, but more importantly, if you eliminate the front sway bar while retaining the rear sway bar, you will be increasing the roll stiffness bias towards the rear, which increases the tendency to oversteer.

That's the TL;DR version. For more, here's one of many similar charts explaining how particular changes will affect handling balance. In this case, the "Front Swaybar -- Softer" cell applies and falls under "To Increase Oversteer" (and deleting the swaybar is definitely making it "softer").

 

[Doubeleive]

Wes,
Are you saying to work on the bar with the wheels unloaded so not on ramps?
Charlie suggested undoing links while weighted then jack up.

Overall what is your suggested approach?

The objective is to repair a cracked frame bracket at one of the sway bar bushings. It may or may not include replacing both bushings depending if the bolts will come out. One side definitely where the repair is needed.
The links are original but don't appear distressed. Replacement is not ruled out but a secondary to the repair.

it is easiest to do it with both front wheels off the ground, if you are doing it alone loosen one end link up to almost completely unbolted, then do the other side the same, then you can go under and unbolt the center d brackets, then finish unbolting either end link for complete removal.
reinstall would be in reverse, slightly bolt up one end link, then the other side, install d brackets and then tighten it all up.
doing it that way is like having a helper hold one end.
if you are going to be welding on it I would just take the bar off wherever is convenient first, then you can put the wheels back on and drive it wherever.
people drive around with a end link broken all the time and don't even know it, it's not going to make it hard to drive or damage anything.
if you had to make a emergency swerve on the road without it then it may dip more (in the front) to one side or another