Fosscore's 2006 Tahoe Build Thread

[Fosscore]

Wish I had just welded my plate holes when I was painting it. Oh well. Bolts definitely look better than open square holes that’s for sure

Same here. The bumper and grille (minus a few spots) is still looking top notch.

But thx. A little touch of elegance? Lol.

Thx man.

 

[Fosscore]

Nice, tasteful little mod.

Thx man that little hint about the tilt lever. Who knew?

 

[Sam Harris]

My junkyard findings, yielded 2 Escalade shifter handles that were very cheap. Both are in pretty good shape other than one of the leather handles is pretty beat up. I figured one would be a good fit and a spare for so cheap wasn't worth passing up.

Perfect plug, wire, stalk and handle. I gave them a solid APC clean and was able to use a razor blade to peel the chrome off the one handle end that was already peeling off. It is literally just chrome tape FYI, just in case I wanted to paint it.

I decided to give the NBS Escalade shifter handle swap out a go. Hold your NNBS comments. lol I know, it's different and I wanted to see how it looked with an NBS Escalade shifter and be a direct wiring harnesses swap. As well as keeping it in the NBS tradition and be a bit different. Why not? It's only an LS with some Escalade parts for show, ammaright?

The tow/haul ass light works and I am pretty happy with how it looks. The chrome end ring is not too bad and picks up a bit off the stereo trim. The stalk looks great and the leather handle has a tiny bit of wear, but after a solid cleaning and Lexol conditioning, it feels great in the hand.

Pretty happy with this little touch to the interior.

View attachment 232404 View attachment 232405
View attachment 232407 View attachment 232408 View attachment 232409

Looks great!

 

[Fosscore]

Fedex early delivery from Rock Auto this morning. Hopefully get them on in the next few days, then down to the shop for an alignment if all goes well.

Here is what I ordered from Rock Auto. 5% off and way cheaper than Amazon or any local stores for this order even with the small shipping fee. PayPal balance always helps out as well.

Moog ES3488 Inner Tie Rod End Problem Solver
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C57W7C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Moog ES3493T Outer Tie Rod End Problem Solver
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C59WHA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

[Bear77]

My junkyard findings, yielded 2 Escalade shifter handles that were very cheap. Both are in pretty good shape other than one of the leather handles is pretty beat up. I figured one would be a good fit and a spare for so cheap wasn't worth passing up.

Perfect plug, wire, stalk and handle. I gave them a solid APC clean and was able to use a razor blade to peel the chrome off the one handle end that was already peeling off. It is literally just chrome tape FYI, just in case I wanted to paint it.

Do you remember if the screw was a T25 or T30?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Fosscore]

SWAPPING SHIFTER HANDLES ON THE NBS TAHOE

Do you remember if the screw was a T25 or T30? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@Bear77

Should be a single T30 screw with some blue thread locker from the factory.

Just go slow and it will crack loose. Keep that steady pressure on the driver and remove it so as to not strip it. Make sure and thread the orange cable back to the plug exactly the same way, in and out installing the 2 nylon clips where they go. I took a before picture to reference because twice I did it the wrong way because I was in such a hurry. Lol

A little help that I did not know is the the tilt level just pulls straight out with a firm grasp which will allow you to remove the upper and lower plastic pieces of the steering column. There are 2 hooks nearest the DIC that hold it together so don't go just yanking it apart and some other miscellaneous placed male and female tabs on both sides where it separates that clip back together during reinstallation.

My 06 does not have any screws in the bottom of the column. I say that as I came across an OBS thread on this and they had a few screws in the bottom of the column plastic. I did remove my dash bezel as well and the lower trim piece just below the steering column (2 x 7mm bolts IIRC and 2 push tabs at the top to get it off) just to get better access to the plug as it is taped to the ignition wiring. Small flat blade screwdriver will separate the male and female ends.

Figured I might as well do a short write up as I was pressed for time and didn't take a ton of pictures the day I put it on. Hope that helps you out and anybody else who had those questions.

 

[Bear77]

@Bear77
Should be a single T30 screw with some blue thread locker from the factory.

Just go slow and it will crack loose. Keep that steady pressure on the driver and remove it so as to not strip it. Make sure and thread the orange cable back to the plug exactly the same way, in and out installing the 2 nylon clips where they go. I took a before picture to reference because twice I did I the wrong way I was in such a hurry. Lol

A little help that I did not know is the the tilt level just pulls straight out with a firm grasp which will allow you to remove the upper and lower plastic pieces of the steering column. There are 2 hooks nearest the DIC that hold it together so don't go just yanking it apart and some other miscellaneous placed male and female tabs on both sides where it separates that clip back together during reinstallation.

My 06 does not have any screws in the bottom of the column. I say that as I came across an OBS thread on this and they had a few screws in the bottom of the column plastic. I did remove my dash bezel as well and the lower trim piece just below the steering column (2 x 7mm bolts IIRC and 2 push tabs at the top to get it off) just to get better access to the plug as it is taped to the ignition wiring. Small flat blade screwdriver will separate the male and female ends.

Figured I might as well do a short write up as I was pressed for time and didn't take a ton of pictures the day I put it on. Hope that helps you out and anybody else who had those questions.

Thank you! Now to find the shifter!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[adventurenali92]

To add to his excellent write up and maybe it will help, when I swapped out to an NNBS shifter, I grabbed a hair dryer and put it to the torq screw that holds the shifter in place. The heat helped loosen up the locktite in the screw enough for me to back the screw out.

 

[BADRIDES]

Bolts installed and color matched.View attachment 232382

YeZZZZZZZZZZZir

 

[05Single]

SWAPPING SHIFTER HANDLES ON THE NBS TAHOE

@Bear77

Should be a single T30 screw with some blue thread locker from the factory.

Just go slow and it will crack loose. Keep that steady pressure on the driver and remove it so as to not strip it. Make sure and thread the orange cable back to the plug exactly the same way, in and out installing the 2 nylon clips where they go. I took a before picture to reference because twice I did it the wrong way because I was in such a hurry. Lol

A little help that I did not know is the the tilt level just pulls straight out with a firm grasp which will allow you to remove the upper and lower plastic pieces of the steering column. There are 2 hooks nearest the DIC that hold it together so don't go just yanking it apart and some other miscellaneous placed male and female tabs on both sides where it separates that clip back together during reinstallation.

My 06 does not have any screws in the bottom of the column. I say that as I came across an OBS thread on this and they had a few screws in the bottom of the column plastic. I did remove my dash bezel as well and the lower trim piece just below the steering column (2 x 7mm bolts IIRC and 2 push tabs at the top to get it off) just to get better access to the plug as it is taped to the ignition wiring. Small flat blade screwdriver will separate the male and female ends.

Figured I might as well do a short write up as I was pressed for time and didn't take a ton of pictures the day I put it on. Hope that helps you out and anybody else who had those questions.

There are threaded holes that line up with holes in our lower column trump piece . When I switched out my shifter I added screws to satisfy my OCD. If there’s screw holes they need to be filled .

***And x2 definitely take your time on the t30 screw or it will strip

 

[BADRIDES]

My junkyard findings, yielded 2 Escalade shifter handles that were very cheap. Both are in pretty good shape other than one of the leather handles is pretty beat up. I figured one would be a good fit and a spare for so cheap wasn't worth passing up.

Perfect plug, wire, stalk and handle. I gave them a solid APC clean and was able to use a razor blade to peel the chrome off the one handle end that was already peeling off. It is literally just chrome tape FYI, just in case I wanted to paint it.

I decided to give the NBS Escalade shifter handle swap out a go. Hold your NNBS comments. lol I know, it's different and I wanted to see how it looked with an NBS Escalade shifter and be a direct wiring harnesses swap. As well as keeping it in the NBS tradition and be a bit different. Why not? It's only an LS with some Escalade parts for show, ammaright?

The tow/haul ass light works and I am pretty happy with how it looks. The chrome end ring is not too bad and picks up a bit off the stereo trim. The stalk looks great and the leather handle has a tiny bit of wear, but after a solid cleaning and Lexol conditioning, it feels great in the hand.

Pretty happy with this little touch to the interior.

View attachment 232404 View attachment 232405
View attachment 232407 View attachment 232408 View attachment 232409

Do the NBS handles come in a different leather end cover? My interior is tan.

 

[adventurenali92]

Do the NBS handles come in a different leather end cover? My interior is tan.

Not that I’ve seen. I’ve only seen the dark colored finish, I guess to match the dark upper dash top in the NBS Escalades.

 

[Fosscore]

79,200 miles

I had time today to change out the inner and outer tie rods and it went pretty smooth. The nut on the outer tie rod came off pretty easily with an 18mm deep socket. The OEM part does not use a cotter pin, whereas the Moog Problem Solver does (at least on mine). A couple smacks with the BFH and it popped free.

I used an adjustable spanner on the inner tie rod, which took a little negotiating to get it to break loose. I lined up the old and new parts to get as close to the same length as possible for reinstallation.

I used this video for reference. Great video with written instruction and video clips along the way if you have never done this project before.

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/How-to-Replace-the-Tie-Rods-on-the-00-06-Chevy-Tahoe-With-Videos

While I had the front wheels off, I freshened up the rotor hats and rotors with some some spray paint and went around and torqued all the lug nuts to 150lbs once I put everything back on.

I drove down to my buddies shop, but his alignment guy was off and he was down a man and swamped. So I drove back home. Only 4 miles return, but dammit I was hoping to complete it all today. I called a new shop even closer to my house, but the old man was in the hospital. So no alignment happened today. I will get it sorted out first thing tomorrow and hopefully he doesn't see anything else under there that I missed while it is on the rack.

 

[BADRIDES]

Your shock design is different from mine. These are these style shocks that I want but I read where they wont work if you have premium ride suspension and that's what I have.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/00-06-Taho...:USPSPriorityMailLargeFlatRateBox!38340!US!-1

 

[adventurenali92]

Thanks for the link on that page! Doesn’t look too bad of a job Looks like I’m tackling tie rods myself then if you can do it! Haha.

 

[Fosscore]

Thanks for the link on that page! Doesn’t look too bad of a job Looks like I’m tackling tie rods myself then if you can do it! Haha.

Not hard at all this particular project. I battled the evap canister for longer due to the tight spacing. That link spells out the job perfectly.

The parts all in from Rock Auto with 5% discount were around $120 and then the alignment will cost me just under $100. That tie rod labor at the shop would likely be another $100-$200? Depending on the shop and how busy they are.

You can knock it out quickly if you are on a mission or take your time and do a few other things I listed above like the paint, looking over things, wiping up old grease, etc...

I also polished the lug nuts, cleaned out the lug holes, wiped down the insides of the wheels as well as the quick paint touch ups.

I thought about sprucing up the fender liners too, but that would have gone in a different direction altogether and I didn’t have time.

You got this Chase. The 18mm nut on the outer tie rod should come off by hand. I did not use an impact and it broke loose pretty easily. Moog recommend 50lbs of torque on installation and it had a cotter pin as well.

For the inner tie rod, I had a 12 inch adjustable on standby, but found the 15 inch had a bit more heft to shift the big nut on the end of the inner tie rod as there is thread locker on the threads and it is sort of an awkward angle for the big wrench. My boots had split so it was like an ice rink with the spanner before I wiped up the excess grease. lol. You just have to think about which way to loosen the nut when you are under the truck. Lefty loosey, but you are taking it off facing the back of the truck if you are under it. lol

Good luck man.

 

[BADRIDES]

See post #1814

 

[Fosscore]

Your shock design is different from mine. These are these style shocks that I want but I read where they wont work if you have premium ride suspension and that's what I have.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/00-06-Taho...:USPSPriorityMailLargeFlatRateBox!38340!US!-1

Sorry man, only had a tiny window, then off to school and the shop for an alignment. 100mph!!

Not sure why the shocks are different unless it has to do with the amount of drop or maybe that is a new design?

Here are all the components that were put on. It came all together from Tony Norcal SS. And I cannot remember if there were any part numbers for those shocks other than called the Belltech Street Performance shocks. Perhaps on the Belltech site?

Hope this helps a little bit for you. @BADRIDES

https://store.tbssowners.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=88

 

[Fosscore]

Got to my buddy's shop this morning at 0720 and there were already 10 people waiting out front. Thankfully he got me right on the rack and 1 hour and $28 later, I was back on the road.

See the attached sheet for the alignment numbers. I had it almost dialed in during the reinstall. A touch out. Said he didn't see anything else out of the ordinary under there.

 

[07Burb]

Got to my buddy's shop this morning at 0720 and there were already 10 people waiting out front. Thankfully he got me right on the rack and 1 hour and $28 later, I was back on the road.

See the attached sheet for the alignment numbers. I had it almost dialed in during the reinstall. A touch out. Said he didn't see anything else out of the ordinary under there.

View attachment 233110

wow!!! $28 for an alignment is truly a buddy deal LOL I can't get out of an alignment for less than $100