All, I have been having issues with my 01 Tahoe fog light. On the driver’s side, every time I replace the bulb, it explodes within a couple days. I have checked the fog light fuse and it looks good. I replaced the light socket and I am still having an issue. It is not water related as it is bone dry inside. My passenger side has been running fine with no issues. As a note, I have been replacing the light with an 880 bulb as I cannot read what my passenger bulb says and what I have read online the replacement is an 880. Everything is stock and I only use the incandescent bulbs, no LEDs. Does anyone have ideas on what may be causing the bulb to keep blowing? Thanks for the help.
Fog Light Issues
- Thread starter Jfarm
- Start date
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I assume that you use your fog lights frequently. Swap the bulbs left to right and see if it still blows. You said that it "explodes;" does that mean it burns out, or literally explodes and the glass shatters?
What voltage are you reading at the socket terminals?
What voltage are you reading at the socket terminals?
Yes, usually whenever I have my headlights on I like to turn my fog lights on as well. The bulb actually explodes and the glass shatters. Good idea checking the voltage at the socket, I will check it when I get back from work tomorrow. Once I get a voltage, I will try and swap the good bulb in. Thanks for the help.
I thought that might’ve been the issue, but I made sure to not touch the bulb at all with my fingers the last couple times I have replaced it.
Is there any possibility of the light housing vibrating enough to cause this? Some of the fog light housings are on rubber mounts, which can cushion them.
Once the voltage is verified, you also have the option of moving to a LED assembly.
I have the round ones on a 2003 Z71.
No complaints.
Available for both facia styles.
I have the round ones on a 2003 Z71.
No complaints.
Available for both facia styles.
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Thanks for the suggestion. I thought about doing LEDs but if I do, I would probably do all the headlights as well and I would rather not do that right now haha.
But I just finished checking the voltage at the fog lamp socket and I may be more stumped than before. I got a reading of 262v and was holding steady while I had the truck idling. I thought that was the cause of my issue, but I went and checked the good passenger side light and I got the same 262v reading. Makes no sense how I am getting this high of a reading on both sockets, when one of the fog lights is working. I doubt the one light runs fine on 262v but who knows haha. I am going to check again tomorrow with a different voltmeter just incase I made a mistake getting the readings.
Lastly, I checked how secure the lamp housing was and it was pretty secure. Could not tell a difference in vibration between the driver and passenger side.
I have also attached a picture to show the blown bulb that I am getting.
Thanks again for all the help.
But I just finished checking the voltage at the fog lamp socket and I may be more stumped than before. I got a reading of 262v and was holding steady while I had the truck idling. I thought that was the cause of my issue, but I went and checked the good passenger side light and I got the same 262v reading. Makes no sense how I am getting this high of a reading on both sockets, when one of the fog lights is working. I doubt the one light runs fine on 262v but who knows haha. I am going to check again tomorrow with a different voltmeter just incase I made a mistake getting the readings.
Lastly, I checked how secure the lamp housing was and it was pretty secure. Could not tell a difference in vibration between the driver and passenger side.
I have also attached a picture to show the blown bulb that I am getting.
Thanks again for all the help.
SilverSport
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just spitballin' here but are you using any dielectric grease on the bulb/socket connection???...
Good luck,
Bill
Good luck,
Bill
Something is wacky with that voltage reading so, yes, verify that the DC voltage is about the same as the battery (or charging) voltage.
Wiring diagram is here (but verify your vehicle info and navigate using the links at the top), showing the circuit.
Wiring diagram is here (but verify your vehicle info and navigate using the links at the top), showing the circuit.
I am going to throw a wild guess out there and say the rust in the background is likely a contributing factor, a poor ground or power lead will cause odd voltage to the lamps and readings with your meter. you can try for basics running a fresh fog light ground to a clean spot on the frame, the ground does not have to be connected to the main harness.
you can verify my guess by ohm testing the grounds on either harness (ground wire to frame) should read 00, if not then you have a poor ground
same with the (power lead to frame) with the fog light switch on it should read 12v+
All,
Apologies for the delayed response. I went down the rabbit hole with my multimeter. It ended up being junk and giving bad readings so I ordered a new one.
I checked everything with the new multimeter, and I think it looks good voltage wise. Both fog lights holding steady at 13.99v while idling. I also checked the battery voltage and it was reading 14v as well. 14v seems slightly high, but everything has the same reading so I am not sure that is the issue.
I have also not used any dilectric grease on anything.
Any suggestions on anything else I should try? Is someone able to confirm that the 880 bulb is the correct bulb I should be using? If it makes a difference, I have an LS trim and it has the rectangular fog lights as opposed to the circular Z71 fog lights.
I think my next step may be to clean out the little glass fragments from the shattered bulb and switch my good bulb into the socket to confirm. Something that also may be worth noting, I have been using the exact same brand of fog light when I replace the bulbs. Sylvania basic. I have not heard any issues with them but maybe the brand or quality may be an issue. Again, just spitballing some ideas.
Thanks again for all the help and suggestions.
Apologies for the delayed response. I went down the rabbit hole with my multimeter. It ended up being junk and giving bad readings so I ordered a new one.
I checked everything with the new multimeter, and I think it looks good voltage wise. Both fog lights holding steady at 13.99v while idling. I also checked the battery voltage and it was reading 14v as well. 14v seems slightly high, but everything has the same reading so I am not sure that is the issue.
I have also not used any dilectric grease on anything.
Any suggestions on anything else I should try? Is someone able to confirm that the 880 bulb is the correct bulb I should be using? If it makes a difference, I have an LS trim and it has the rectangular fog lights as opposed to the circular Z71 fog lights.
I think my next step may be to clean out the little glass fragments from the shattered bulb and switch my good bulb into the socket to confirm. Something that also may be worth noting, I have been using the exact same brand of fog light when I replace the bulbs. Sylvania basic. I have not heard any issues with them but maybe the brand or quality may be an issue. Again, just spitballing some ideas.
Thanks again for all the help and suggestions.
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As for the suggestion of LEDs. Yes white and bright but NO HEAT. What i hate about my 2023 is all lamps are all LED and in the winter while driving in a snow storm the lights tend to get a snow build up on them. Where at times you need to stop and clean them off. So if you live in the northern areas this may be a heads up. I tried to switch the fogs back and can't.
