Feasible/advisable to replace pads but not rotors?

[LurkingLuke]

What's the chief drawback or concern? Trying to save $ but not in the mood to take two steps back after one forward.

 

[tom3]

Hardly ever replace good rotors here. Hard to find quality replacements. If the pads have worn down to metal and scored them, or if they have deep rust and pits, good to replace.

 

[Doubeleive]

What's the chief drawback or concern? Trying to save $ but not in the mood to take two steps back after one forward.

Use your own personal judgement if the rotors are nice and smooth with no grooves or glazed, then new pads and good to go. Just did my rears few days ago the rotors were perfectly fine, they had maybe a tiny smidge of glazing nothing for me to worry about. I just wanted to swap the pads real quick took me about 20-30 minutes and didn't have to run the rotors across town to the truck shop to get turned.

 

[kbuskill]

Don't forget to bed the new pads in once installed.

 

[Charlie207]

What's the chief drawback or concern? Trying to save $ but not in the mood to take two steps back after one forward.

People do it all the time when they get to the track, and again before they drive home.

 

[Marky Dissod]

What's the chief drawback or concern? Trying to save $ but not in the mood to take two steps back after one forward.

You likely don't brake aggressively enough to worry about it.
If the rotors are still thick enough, go ahead, but remember:

Don't forget to bed the new pads in, once installed.

Might be a good idea to clean off your old rotors before installing and bedding in your new pads.

 

[B-train]

If your rotors are rusty, or you live in a road salt state, then replace them. Rust between the surfaces can warp the fins over time and create issues. I'll pad slap if they are rust free and smooth, otherwise replace

 

[guy from norcal]

I hit em with some 80 grit, then some brake cleaner. Good to go!

 

[strutaeng]

You check the rotors with one of the those HF dial indicators. If they are within specs (and not rusted out badly), then there's no reason to replace them. I believe there's a spec for run-out as well as thickness and parallelism (you need a *********** micrometer). You can just do a scuff with sandpaper for proper bedding with the new pads. I think the Haynes Manual advices to do this? I don't think that actually does anything.

 

[Marky Dissod]

You can just do a scuff with sandpaper for proper bedding with the new pads.
I think the Haynes Manual advises to do this? I don't think that actually does anything.

It does.
Brand new (naked) rotors don't have any pad material on them.
Brake pads transfer some pad material onto the rotor once they reach a certain temp, this is what bedding the rotors is for.
Brand new pads on old rotors, the old rotors need their surfaces cleaned to make it easier for the new pads to transfer pad material to the rotor.

 

[petethepug]

I was going to say if you had drilled & slotted rotors the discs clean themselves. Then I see this …

Proof is in the pudding. Slap those new pads on and apply the supplied grease to the backside and ears of the pads.