Engine shuts off while driving - SOLVED

[jfoj]

Was going to note after steering input the engine dies. I believe these vehicles have electrical steering assist, not hydralic or belt driven.

The ECM will load shed when Voltage gets low or will kill fuel/spark if the Voltage gets too high to protect modules from damage. I think the upper threshold is around 18-19 Volts.

I would suggest before going too much further is to get a decent Voltmeter (Fluke 86/87 or something decent quality with fast reaction time) with a Max and Min hold and connect to the battery first and start and run the engine and see if you can get the engine to die using the steering and not the Max/Min Voltages.

Then the next test would be to try at the output of the alternator and do the same thing. If the dealer tech has an OBDII power adapter, this might be a good place to also test Voltage behavior. You can also set up an OBDII tool to monitor the Module Voltage as well. Unfortunately the OBDII Module Voltage PID may be too slow to catch a fast reacting behavior, but it worth looking at.

Another thing just for kicks would be to load the alternator/electrical system heavily to see what happens. Heated seats and steering wheel, rear window defogger, HVAC fan on high, high beam headlights. Do these cause the engine to die, or conversely do they allow the engine not to die?

The other option is if you think the problem is steering related, pull the electric steering fuse but then turn the steering wheel to determine if the problem may be more mechanical or not related to the steering assist current draw. I do not know if these vehicles have a steering angle sensor, maybe something crazy going on there as well if there is a steering angle sensor??

Unsure if a module(s) get spiked something may protect it like a thermal fuse or for some reason the Voltage regulator is getting shorted and even while cranking the alaternator is putting out too much Voltage?

Bad connection, loose ground, too much Voltage drop could be playing into this.

Just some ideas toosed out there to make folks think outside the box a bit.

Good luck!

 

[Doubeleive]

Gonna try and replace the crank sensor and cam sensors tomorrow.

I wouldn't jump to replacing sensors unnecessarily, I would be looking for whatever is causing a excessive load. maybe when it happens disconnect the electric steering and see if anything changes. check all the bolts and grounds, etc
the sensors can be ohm tested with a meter

 

[viven44]

I wouldn't jump to replacing sensors unnecessarily

Agree with that. Don’t start a parts cannon … you are dealing with a one off problem from an electrical issue that will need deep diagnostics and troubleshooting. Something the dealer should be doing since you are under warranty, I’m all for data analysis and diagnostics and parts replacement based on a guaranteed diagnosis, but if you can’t even pull a code don’t replace parts.

Your money and your vehicle ultimately but I think I’m done with my 2 cents on this post

 

[jfoj]

No disrespect to the dealer techs, but most are not great troubleshooters as they see the same problems over and over and anyone under 40 years old probably is mostly a "code reader".

This is a highly unusual problem that standard trouble trees and diagnostic processes will not likely get you to a quick solution.

Suggest you time the "15 minute" period and see if it is really around 15 minutes or if this is just a guesstimate. Keep in mind when you remote start these vehicles, they automatically shut down in 15 minutes. While you sould see a message on the dash that gives you a few minutes notice, if something crazy is going on the 15 minute shut down may be killing the engine?

You have to think way outside the sandbox here, but also start with charging system basics, you may even need to disable the alternator for testing as well. Unforutnately removing the serpentine belt is not the best option, alternator may need to be disabled some other way.

 

[blanchard7684]

Agree with above strongly.

The dealer would have to workout something with Gm to get a tech on “ straight time” for an issue like this.

The dealer would pay the tech and then work with gm later about recouping the labor time.

This issue is definitely in this realm.

So the more specific you can get the better…which is why your own time working this is value add.

In other words, if you could give the dealer tech a description something like ( this is hypothetical):

Steering input after 15 minutes of operation causes engine to die. Voltmeter shows alternator reaching peak voltage during this episode. Then engine won’t restart until some amount of time.

Pulling steering fuse seemed to negate this issue.

Fuel, air, spark, injector pulses check good.

If the tech can’t get to a cause with this they can sure bring it to a tech support hotline.

 

[jfoj]

Forgot to ask, has your vehicle had a history of water leaks or regularly have condensation on the inside of the windsheild when parked overhight?

 

[NELLY1947]

So, just after 2 hour drive, approaching my parking my engine just shuts off, and i get a message saying restart engine. I go to restart it but it cranks and doesnt start. While waiting for the tow truck, about an hour and a half later the car starts up just fine. I drive around for a but and it shuts off again. get it towed to the dealer and they change battery sensor and do some reprogramming, i drive it out and 10 mins later same thing happens again. Dealership is useless cause they never seem to diagnose the problem when it is happening as on cold start the car starts and runs fine. So i took it back changed the fuel pump control module the next time it shuts off but that didnt seem to fix it. now i have it at an independent garage, anyone have any ideas as what it could be? Im gonna also change the crankshaft position sensor tomorrow.

2023 Yukon SLT 5.3l

It shows a 2023. Are u nog under warranty???
If yes take it to another dealer....

 

[sasso]

this morning car started up fine, this time after it’s got to operating temperature we stuck to just steering inputs and lo and behold car shuts off, and now finally it gave us an error code. See photo for more info.

For everyone saying dealership should be doing this. The dealership is garbage here. I have some off-road lights and a dc to dc charger installed and after the first non start I disconnected it all. The dealerships first action was to blame the lights even though it’s not connected. Secondly the dealership never worked on the car when it was in its non starting condition. The very first time I took it in the cold started it, saw a code for low battery and they changed a battery sensor, did no testing and released the car to me. 10 minutes later it died, I knew it was going to die cause a battery sensor does not make sense so I stayed close and on small roads cause I didn’t want the car to die on me on the freeway (Now imagine someone that has little to no knowledge about cars, they’d be driving on a major road car dies in traffic which could then cause serious harm to the operator.) This is after the service advisor told me that he is 100% sure the car is fixed.

When I suggested to them that it could be the fpcm he didn’t even know that such a part exists and he straight away dismissed me and didn’t even relay my message to the tech. The second time I took the car back in, same story the tested the car the evening before just before they shut, got it to stall and then parked it cause it was end of shift, and only the next morning did they try and diagnose it, again while cold starting and car running fine. They didn’t even try to ask what caused the car to stall, while the car is running fine they were gonna change the fuel pump. Didn’t make sense so I took the car back and gave it to an independent who works on my 16 Tahoe and that too very well.

Now waiting for parts to arrive to finally try and get this problem sorted. Will update you when I have further information

Thank you everyone for your inputs, very good to know the support and care this forum provides, even when dealerships let us down. <3

Edit: we have only one dealership

 

[blanchard7684]

@sasso

thanks for the update. glad you have something concrete to work off of.

What is the plan--change cam and crank sensor?

This code makes sense that you would get a hard start after a shutdown.

I'm interested to see if this is also causing the steering input malfunction as well.

 

[sasso]

@sasso

thanks for the update. glad you have something concrete to work off of.

What is the plan--change cam and crank sensor?

This code makes sense that you would get a hard start after a shutdown.

I'm interested to see if this is also causing the steering input malfunction as well.

Gonna start with the crank sensor first and move from there.

Im guessing the steering input is malfunctioning the crank sensor. but lets see. will update in an hour or so

 

[jfoj]

If the dealer is covering the crank sensor, then let them replace it since it triggered a code. But also undertand that the P0016 code is a bit funny, it is not necessarily indicative of a faulty crank or cam sensor. It could point to that, but it indicates the crank and cam sensor coorelation is more of a problem.

This could be more of an issue with a grounding, wiring or Voltage spiking issue.

But I guess let the dealer do their thing then they will need to learn and go from there.

I would be looking at wiring diagrams to see if for some reason the electrical power steering has a common grounding point or if the engine ground may be problematic.

Since the steering input shut the engine down, I would be finding out where the streering ground is attached and check the engine to frame ground closely.

If replacing the crank sensor does not solve the problem, my next test would be to start the process where you can get the engine to quit, BUT I would get a set of jumper cables and make temporary grounds from the battery to the chassis and battery to the engine block. Start the engine and turn the steering, if the engine does not die, then remove the jumper cables and repeat. If the engine dies without the jumper cables, you then know 100% there is a problem ground connection.

Good luck.

 

[sasso]

Sooooooooo, replaced crank sensor, cleared codes car started.

And then proceeded to stall once load was applied. Literally 20ft of driving.

Gonna try what jfoj suggested next time it is running.

Thank you all for your help

 

[jfoj]

I am pretty sure the ECM is on the drivers side just in front of the drivers side tire under the splash shield.

There may be a lot going on electrically in the left front of the vehicle.

All the engine sensors and ECM need a decent ground reference and power reference for all the sensors. Many sensors have a 5 Volt reference and if for some reason the ground or 5 Volt reference is compromised, then you will have problems and strange problems.

I would also go back to a decent Voltmeter with Max and Min hold as well as putting other heavy electrical loads other than the steering. If other heavy electrical loads do not kill the engine, then your focus should be on the steering, pull steering fuse to determine if the problem is a "mechanical" issue with wiring being pinched or rubbing, or if the problem is "electrical".

Pretty quick to narrow down as long as you can repeat the engine quiting without too much delay.

Good luck.

 

[WalleyeMikeIII]

Just saw this out on the mfg communications on NHTSA web site...doesn't quite exactly sound like your issue (other than the subsequent crank/no start)

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2025/MC-11016149-0001.pdf

 

[blanchard7684]

I am pretty sure the ECM is on the drivers side just in front of the drivers side tire under the splash shield.

There may be a lot going on electrically in the left front of the vehicle.

All the engine sensors and ECM need a decent ground reference and power reference for all the sensors. Many sensors have a 5 Volt reference and if for some reason the ground or 5 Volt reference is compromised, then you will have problems and strange problems.

I would also go back to a decent Voltmeter with Max and Min hold as well as putting other heavy electrical loads other than the steering. If other heavy electrical loads do not kill the engine, then your focus should be on the steering, pull steering fuse to determine if the problem is a "mechanical" issue with wiring being pinched or rubbing, or if the problem is "electrical".

Pretty quick to narrow down as long as you can repeat the engine quiting without too much delay.

Good luck.

Yep. This is where I’d focus next.

 

[Sundancer]

So, just after 2 hour drive, approaching my parking my engine just shuts off, and i get a message saying restart engine. I go to restart it but it cranks and doesnt start. While waiting for the tow truck, about an hour and a half later the car starts up just fine. I drive around for a but and it shuts off again. get it towed to the dealer and they change battery sensor and do some reprogramming, i drive it out and 10 mins later same thing happens again. Dealership is useless cause they never seem to diagnose the problem when it is happening as on cold start the car starts and runs fine. So i took it back changed the fuel pump control module the next time it shuts off but that didnt seem to fix it. now i have it at an independent garage, anyone have any ideas as what it could be? Im gonna also change the crankshaft position sensor tomorrow.

2023 Yukon SLT 5.3l

I have almost the same issue going on on my 2011 Tahoe LTZ since November. Mine just hesitates on a cold crank initially but then starts up perfectly and the rest of the day is okay. I have gone to the Chevy dealer 3 separate times as my mechanic did not have the necessary diagnostic tools available since I had no codes. Dealer initially replaced the battery, then on the second visit the Throttle Position Sensor, the air filter and on my last visit the entire Throttle body. Problem solved for 2 weeks and boom, the same issues all over. I then took it to an engine diagnostic place that was recommended to me and they had the car for a week, cleaning out connections and could not determine the issue at all. The trip to the dealer was expensive to say the least but also fruitless. The independent Engine place only charged me $100. I have never had any issues with my truck since I bought it 14 years ago...the frustration was killing me but since I am not a mechanic I have opted to sell it being totally transparent about the issue.

 

[Doubeleive]

I have almost the same issue going on on my 2011 Tahoe LTZ since November. Mine just hesitates on a cold crank initially but then starts up perfectly and the rest of the day is okay. I have gone to the Chevy dealer 3 separate times as my mechanic did not have the necessary diagnostic tools available since I had no codes. Dealer initially replaced the battery, then on the second visit the Throttle Position Sensor, the air filter and on my last visit the entire Throttle body. Problem solved for 2 weeks and boom, the same issues all over. I then took it to an engine diagnostic place that was recommended to me and they had the car for a week, cleaning out connections and could not determine the issue at all. The trip to the dealer was expensive to say the least but also fruitless. The independent Engine place only charged me $100. I have never had any issues with my truck since I bought it 14 years ago...the frustration was killing me but since I am not a mechanic I have opted to sell it being totally transparent about the issue.

yours is a different generation all-together, different software, no electric steering.
cold start and hot die are also completely different, but you could start your own thread in the gmt900 forum under engine/drivetrain

 

[Fless]

Sooooooooo, replaced crank sensor, cleared codes car started.

And then proceeded to stall once load was applied. Literally 20ft of driving.

Gonna try what jfoj suggested next time it is running.

Thank you all for your help

During this time, has a CASE relearn been done? It's quick and easy with a capable scanner, and will sync the cam and crank sensors so they know their relative positions. It's just something to rule out and should be done any time either sensor is changed (and if either sensor is suspected as the culprit).

 

[sasso]

havent tried anything today, super frustrated and upset. will do the CASE relearn, and the additional ground points. could be a bad fuel pressure sensor.

 

[blanchard7684]

havent tried anything today, super frustrated and upset. will do the CASE relearn, and the additional ground points. could be a bad fuel pressure sensor.

Hang in there. You've done some good work.