Engine setting for years, what's the best way to prepare for start up?

[HDRock1]

I don't need a abs scan tool ,to activate anything ??
Just bleed normally ?

I have bled thousands of brakes, mostly at the Buick factory where I worked, as a brake repairman, one of many jobs in my 32 years there, but that doesn't mean I know it all
FYI, I was wrong about mileage on the Hoe, It's 51,000

 

[SunlitComet]

just for a typical bleed to get you on the road again that will do but a b-directional scanner can trigger the abs solenoids to bleed out what is in the abs module it self. there is a way to do it with out one and while it may have some fun to it is a safety risk, not very efficient or completely effective and very time consuming.

at 51k miles hopefully, that all fluids have not done any damage and kept everything lubed and non corroded because of age you can expect no major problems with it any time soon.

---------- Post added at 03:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:57 PM ----------

BLEEDING PROCEDURES

Important: Never pump the brake pedal. Fluid cavitation may occur.

NOTICE: Gravity and vacuum bleeding are not recommended for this ABS system.

Two Person Procedure (Preferred)

1. Raise the vehicle to gain access to the system bleed screws. Install clear tubing on the bleed screws so that air bubbles in the fluid can be seen.
2. Begin by bleeding the system at the right rear wheel, then the left rear, right front and left front.
3. Open one bleed screw at a time 1/2 to 1 full turn.
4. Slowly depress the brake pedal until it reaches its full travel and hold until the bleed screw has been tightened. Release the brake pedal and wait 10-15 seconds for the master cylinder to return to the home position.

Important: Repeat steps 1 through 4 until approximately 1 pint of brake fluid has been bled from each wheel. Clean brake fluid should be present at each of the wheel bleed screws. Check the master cylinder fluid level every 4 to 6 strokes of the brake pedal to avoid running the system dry.

1. If any component is replaced which may have caused air to enter the BPMV, use a Scan Tool to run "Function Test" four times while applying the brake pedal firmly.

Important: Set the park brake when running the "Function Test."

1. Rebleed all four wheels using steps 1 through 4 to remove the remaining air from the brake system.
2. Evaluate the brake pedal feel before attempting to drive the vehicle and rebleed as many times as necessary to obtain appropriate pedal feel.

---------- Post added at 04:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:59 PM ----------

oh crap i had my bleeding order backwards sorry.

---------- Post added at 04:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:01 PM ----------

also note the oem design is still soft pedalish. but there are some improvements that can be implemented to help that.

 

[HDRock1]

SunlitComet. Thanks for the information.
I drove it up and down my street a couple of times today, half-mile street, using the E brake.
Seems to be running and driving good, just don't have any breaks.
It is idling a little rough. I got some seafoam for the tank, and some of the spray stuff.
I imagine there's some things I need to clean later, like throttle body and IAC, And not sure . So what else?

 

[SunlitComet]

Fix your brakes first.

 

[HDRock1]

I plan on faxin the brake line first , but I will have very easy access to it once I get the center support, whole front clip, off, which I will start tomorrow if it's not a 101 degrees like it was today.
As a matter of fact, I don't know if I ,could, replace it before removing the front clip, everything on the right side is very tight , from wreck, right there where the line is ,I was having a hard time even measuring the length over there, and when I replace a brake line , I replace the whole thing A to B

 

[TORONTO 95 GT]

I just replaced the front brake lines on my 95 Yukon 2 door. I changed that front line across the front under the rad cradle so to speak. Remove the skid plate and the access is there, just a lot of bends and turns to follow the factory route. I also changed the line for the left front while I was in there and repalced the calipers and flex hoses. For me it was 225K miles on everything so I figured she could use a renew on everything.

 

[HDRock1]

Well I changed my mind, I decided to patch up the brake line, since the rest of the line is in very good shape and there was a union like 5 in form the leak.
There was a bunch of leaves, dirt, an nut shells setting up there (dang varmints) is why it rusted there, I blew all that out a while back.
I have to say I made some very nice double flares.
Once I made the flare on the end of the existing line, I removed the end of it at the right brake hose and blew the line out with blow gun 120 psi,I put about 20 in of new line up to the old union.
I bled the front wheels a little, came in and saw this in the FSM (If a pipe is disconnected at one wheel, then only bleed that wheel) so I bled the right wheel 4 more times and figured I would see what I got, and I have a pretty good peddle,but kinda mushy, and the brakes are working pretty good, but still got abs light, did not check if abs was working yet .
I will start over at the rear and do the whole thing again tomorrow
Put some different tires on the front today to, they had flat spots

 

[HDRock1]

Well, I put a new part on the heater hose connection, but apparently that was not where coolant was leaking,cuz I still have a leak.
I'm having a heck of a time finding where it's leaking, so far ,and it looks like it's wet front right down behind alt.
I understand the intake manifolds are notorious for leaking but whats weird is it doesn't leak when hot or when it's set for a couple of hours but, after it sets over night I get a puddle of less than an ounce, I put a drip pan under it to help diagnose. But ,I did find it had ran back all the way to the bell housing but, it is on the right side somewhere
I am going to take off alt. to see what I can see, cuz I can't see down there ,I've never had a coolant leak this elusive. It doesn't appear to be coming from water pump, and is not smoking while running
Do the intake gaskets leak in any general area, or is it random ????

 

[SunlitComet]

intake gaskets actually. put som uv dye in the coolant and get a uv lamp. from the parts store.

 

[HDRock1]

Thanks for the reply Sunlit
I guess you can disregard most of the last post cuz I moved it to the street and back, after I mowed the grass and it was leaking quite a bit and t stat wasn't even open yet, looks like it is intake gasket,coming out right under heat hose connection, see pic
Took off alt.to see
I have only driven it like 15, 20 miles in last three weeks and it's getting worse.
It has never over heated, and When it was setting it never froze

Question: When the intake is reassembled, it needs rtv all across the front and back of block ?? and what kind should be used, just black high temp, or ???