engine overheated after coolant change

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Yuk_Nali_6.0

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I don't know what is happening but for some reason my truck only held about 2 gallons of coolant but calls for over 4 gallons. I was thinking it would suck more on down but it never did and overheated instead. Luckily I was in my garage and hopefully caught it in time. Can anyone tell me what to do?
 
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Yuk_Nali_6.0

Yuk_Nali_6.0

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That's what I figured...so how do I get the air out? I obviously don't have one of those tools. My dad's Dodge has an air bleed valve.
 

Rivieraracing

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I always fill up the resevoir until it is full, then run it till it warms up to running temp with the cap off, top it off, put the cap back on while it is running and give it a drive around the block, check it again and add if needed!!!
Another way to get rid of an air bubble in the system that has always worked for me is park the truck on a hill front first and let it run with the cap off, sometimes squeezing the top hose some, give it a try!!
 

road1will

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Yea, just fill it up as much as you can, then turn the engine over for just a second and hopefully the water pump will pump some of the water. Several people have told me you can "pump" the lower radiator hose with your hand to get it to suck in some water. I don't know if I buy it though, seems far-fetched.
 
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Yuk_Nali_6.0

Yuk_Nali_6.0

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Nothing has worked so far....it did finally go down some, but not much.
 
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Yuk_Nali_6.0

Yuk_Nali_6.0

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Edit: sorry that was my wife posting...

No I just let it run for almost 10 min constantly watching the temp and it didn't get above half way. I can't explain it??
 
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jmildoc

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just a few minutes?!!?? did you use the dex cool stuff??? Drain it and try again or try and find a "flush kit"
 
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Yuk_Nali_6.0

Yuk_Nali_6.0

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Edited

---------- Post added at 10:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:31 PM ----------

Ok so I finally gave up on it for the night. I let it run for about 30 minutes straight and it didn't overheat again, but didn't suck any coolant either. Its only got 2.5 gallons in it. Wasted a whole day on this 1 hr job and it still ain't right. I guess I'll just stick to the oil changes from now on.
Couldn't GM have avoided this problem by using a radiator cap AND the overflow jug?? Instead of creating a one-way air trap.
 
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dec322

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Edited

---------- Post added at 10:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:31 PM ----------

Ok so I finally gave up on it for the night. I let it run for about 30 minutes straight and it didn't overheat again, but didn't suck any coolant either. Its only got 2.5 gallons in it. Wasted a whole day on this 1 hr job and it still ain't right. I guess I'll just stick to the oil changes from now on.
Couldn't GM have avoided this problem by using a radiator cap AND the overflow jug?? Instead of creating a one-way air trap.

How did you drain it? I've never done anything on these but I would think that if you just drained the radiator then you would still have stuff in the block. Therefore, you would only need 2.5 gallons to make up for what you drained out of the radiator.

I like the idea of only one way to add coolant. I had a 99 cobra that had two ways to fill it. The bottom radiator hose came off on the interstate and I lost alot of coolant. I put it back on and filled it at the radiator. Unfortunately that was not the highest point and I overheated it a few more times trying to limp home. Needless to say, I blew the headgasket.
 
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Yuk_Nali_6.0

Yuk_Nali_6.0

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I pulled the bottom radiator hose...got an easy 4 gallons out, so 4 should go back in. I've never heard of draining the block seperately.
 

dec322

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I pulled the bottom radiator hose...got an easy 4 gallons out, so 4 should go back in. I've never heard of draining the block seperately.

Well, if you got 4 out then I would think you could get 4 in.

Personally, I don't know how you would drain the block. I'm sure there is a method to flush the system so that you push the old stuff out of the block but I don't mess with fluids on my vehicles anymore. I change oil and maybe differential but I take it some where when I need to change anything else. I get too frustrated when an hour job takes all day and then I have to drive in fear for a few weeks.

Post up if you figure it out.
 

Rivieraracing

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Don't get too frustrated man, some cars are just picky when it comes to getting air out of coolant systems! Have you turned your heater on high heat and fan while you have been filling the coolant, some rigs need the heater on high heat and high fan to get coolant to circulate through the heater core (not sure about these trucks)?

---------- Post added at 06:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:43 AM ----------

Yeah, I just pulled out my Haynes manual and it does say to turn the heater heat level to high and high fan to get the coolant to circulate through the heater core, if you didn't you might be getting an air pocket around that area.
 
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Yuk_Nali_6.0

Yuk_Nali_6.0

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Well I didn't have the heater on as I was filling it, but I've ran it afterwards to no avail.
 

Clemsonbloz

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you generally get air pockets when the engine sits higher than the radiator. That's when you have an air bleed(like the front wheel drive GM cars).. When I changed my water pump, I filled the radiator with the upper hose, and then filled the remainder in the expansion tank. Started, ran the heat, and it swallowed painlessly..
 

bigpapapete

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maybe your thermostat is stuck did you think of changing that. if there is an air bubble there it wont open. just a suggestion
 

HMFDZ28

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when you fill the system do yourself a favor and put the heat on hi. This will allow the coolant to flow into that portion of the system and you can also tell when coolant gets in there cause well you will have heat lol.
 

tybardy

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when you fill the system do yourself a favor and put the heat on hi. This will allow the coolant to flow into that portion of the system and you can also tell when coolant gets in there cause well you will have heat lol.

i was just about to say that... little trick my dad told me growing up
 

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