Engine build/rebuild precision tools

[strutaeng]

I've rebuilt a few of these engines, without the need to do any major machine work (actually, none to the block). I started by buying a used Mitutoyo dial bore guage from eBay and a set of Summit Racing micrometers 1-6" range, and the mics worked okay. I was intimidated by the micrometer measuring readings initially, but it's not that bad. I've decided to buy some better mics, and my Husky digital dial calipers are now unreliable and a 12" digital Chicom calipers from Amazon for measuring pushrod length bit the dust within a few months. So looking around on FBMP, there's some nice tools at good prices, just have to be patient. Brands like Mitutoyo, Brown & Sharpe, and even Starrett. Some almost new or very low use. I think I want to do a high performance build down the road, which I know will get expensive, LOL.

Anyways, I found this article from Jeff Smith: https://inthegaragemedia.com/guide-to-the-proper-ls-engine-building-tools/

Any advice on precision measuring tools? I think 0-1", 2-3" and (depending on bore) 4-5" mics should cover it, right? 3-4" for 4.8/5.3 bores?

I also can't seem to find a 1/4" torque wrench with good reviews unless I step into Mac, Snap-on, etc. realm. Both the 1/4" and 3/8" HF I have seems to have stopped "clicking." For those smaller fasteners like intake manifold bolts, etc. Any recommendations?

 

[nonickatall]

I wouldn't overcomplicate things with torque wrenches; it's not rocket science. Besides, you can calibrate torque wrenches relatively easily yourself. You simply clamp the head in a vise and attach a defined weight to the end.

All torque wrenches have an adjustment screw; you just need to determine the weight based on the length of the wrench.

There's a formula for this: divide the desired torque in newton-meters by (9.81 times the length of the wrench).

This gives you a weight that you attach to the torque wrench, and it should then click at 20 newton-meters. The newton-meter value must, of course, be appropriate for the torque wrench. If you want to calibrate a large torque wrench, you would use approximately half the torque for which the wrench is designed.

And you can also work the other way around if you have a suitable weight available and calculate at what torque value the wrench should click.

For this, I use a small canister which I fill with the appropriate amount of water. You can weigh the canister on a scale and then attach it to your torque wrench with a string.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I've rebuilt a few of these engines, without the need to do any major machine work (actually, none to the block). I started by buying a used Mitutoyo dial bore guage from eBay and a set of Summit Racing micrometers 1-6" range, and the mics worked okay. I was intimidated by the micrometer measuring readings initially, but it's not that bad. I've decided to buy some better mics, and my Husky digital dial calipers are now unreliable and a 12" digital Chicom calipers from Amazon for measuring pushrod length bit the dust within a few months. So looking around on FBMP, there's some nice tools at good prices, just have to be patient. Brands like Mitutoyo, Brown & Sharpe, and even Starrett. Some almost new or very low use. I think I want to do a high performance build down the road, which I know will get expensive, LOL.

Anyways, I found this article from Jeff Smith: https://inthegaragemedia.com/guide-to-the-proper-ls-engine-building-tools/

Any advice on precision measuring tools? I think 0-1", 2-3" and (depending on bore) 4-5" mics should cover it, right? 3-4" for 4.8/5.3 bores?

I also can't seem to find a 1/4" torque wrench with good reviews unless I step into Mac, Snap-on, etc. realm. Both the 1/4" and 3/8" HF I have seems to have stopped "clicking." For those smaller fasteners like intake manifold bolts, etc. Any recommendations?

Smiles per mile don't come cheap.

 

[tuckerrnr1]

I wouldn't overcomplicate things with torque wrenches; it's not rocket science. Besides, you can calibrate torque wrenches relatively easily yourself. You simply clamp the head in a vise and attach a defined weight to the end.

All torque wrenches have an adjustment screw; you just need to determine the weight based on the length of the wrench.

There's a formula for this: divide the desired torque in newton-meters by (9.81 times the length of the wrench).

This gives you a weight that you attach to the torque wrench, and it should then click at 20 newton-meters. The newton-meter value must, of course, be appropriate for the torque wrench. If you want to calibrate a large torque wrench, you would use approximately half the torque for which the wrench is designed.

And you can also work the other way around if you have a suitable weight available and calculate at what torque value the wrench should click.

For this, I use a small canister which I fill with the appropriate amount of water. You can weigh the canister on a scale and then attach it to your torque wrench with a string.

He's in Germany, the engineering must be sound.

 

[strutaeng]

I bought a 0-1" Mitutoyo digital micrometer ($130) and a Starrett 6" dial calipers ($150) from FBMP. The Starrett were still sealed in their box and the Mitutoyo practically brand new:

Not too shabby...

 

[nonickatall]

Wow, nice tools! Great investment.

 

[strutaeng]

Wow, nice tools! Great investment.

Thanks! Yeah, I'd never handled a nice set of dial indicators in my life until now. The fit and finish eeks quality.

Oh, I did watch a video on the calibration of torque wrenches. Will try that, thanks! I understand the concept of torque very well (civil-structural engineer by profession, and they teach us the SI system, at least on sophomore level engineering fundamentals in the universities )

 

[nonickatall]

Yes, the SI system is great, and I still can't understand why Americans are still using that weird imperial system, which is only good if you grew up with it, but even then I find it totally bizarre: 4/8 + 1/4 + 3/6, insane!

And torque in all those strange units: pounds, lbs, and who knows what else.

Newton meters are so beautiful: newtonmeters, kilo nm, or even mega nm.. or micro nm.

And it doesn't matter if it's temperature, force, current, torque, or mass.

Everything is the same: decimal, exponential, and derivable.