Emergency window repair

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thdrill

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In searching for instructions or assistance in the window motor replacement I found minimal information on procedures so:

OK so I was swiping out of the parking deck at work and heard a "pop" in the door and my driver side window slowly eeked down and wouldn't come up. Thinking it might be the motor (cause the window has been slowing down) I went to replace it, unfortunately at 2200 hours at night under flashlight without proper instructions. Well I go the motor attached but noted some fraying of the cable on the actuator, and it seemed the cable had been reversed on the pulley. Anyway I got the motor on and the window slowly went up but with a scratchy/straining sound then it would stop and slowly come down making the same sound. So for now I am stuck with a window that is open approximately 1 inch (better than wide open) and a problem of I still have to get the window working. Probably will attack this again on Wed during the day, but was wondering if anyone had any suggestions or a list of steps so that I may be able to check my procedures and ascertain where I am snagged. Also I have noted that the door light does not come on and the door does not register as "closed"...probably missed a connection (but the door is functional). Once again any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Paul
 

03YukonNH

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What is the make, model, and year of the truck? I tried looking at the Chilton manual's wiring diagrams but for some reason they will not display this morning. Perhaps you have a problem with the drivers door module (DDM). I need to look at the wiring diagram before I make any other guesses and I do not know how to test the DDM unless you swap it with a known good one. You may also want to look into taping up the fraid wires because they may be getting grounded out inside the door and causing an overcurrent situation. The popping noise could have been the DDM or motor getting too much current passing through it.

One other thing I just thought of, is it possible for you to take the truck to a place like Advance Auto Parts where they run a battery test? Those battery tests will indicate if the system has a drain on it (i.e. a wire grounded out to the body of the car).
 

Rivieraracing

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Sounds like a busted window regulator, pretty common problem with our trucks! As to why at the same time the door won't register when open I don't have a clue on!!
 
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thdrill

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Sorry its a 2003 probably LS, as for the window motor the response with the new motor seems to be the same as with the old motor (just a little faster). Anyway found the problem with the door registering (loose connection). I plan on attacking the door again tomorrow during the day when I don't have to try to navigate a dark door panel by flashlight. Thanks for the suggestions, just have to see if I can take a better look during daylight.
 

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