Eibach 2/3 Drop Kit - Install Write-Up (56k Warning)

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

vjr021

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2009
Posts
310
Reaction score
20
Location
Clearwater, FL
Finally got around to installing the 2/3 drop Eibach sent... Perfect companion to the Sway Bar kit I previously installed. Kind of a backwards way of doing it, but I needed a hand to take pics and install the drop at the same time.

Here's how it went:

Eibach Kit # Fits Yukon Denali and Escalade

Includes:
- Keys
- Rear springs
- shorter Ride Height Sensor bars
4342230986_85b9c7bc52.jpg

I decided to call in a favor and had some help from my friends @ 4 Wheel Parts, the lift helped with taking the pics, but after seeing what is needed, I am comfortable with saying this could be done in a driveway with a good jack (or two) and some good stands.

4342280888_172f577ae9.jpg


Rear Reference shot...
4342281058_d4a286c23c_b.jpg

Jack the rear of the truck up and get it as high as you are comfortable on a jack stands... Make sure this is from the frame and not anywhere that will keep the suspension from moving, you need the axle free.

If you have a Denali, make sure the ignition is never turned on when the wheels are off the ground, due to the air ride sensors.

Once you have the wheels off (I didn't think I needed to show pics of that) you need to disconnect your sway bars from the lower part of the end link.
4341541989_7fda877280.jpg4341542531_878077d4ce.jpg

Then pop the ride height sensor bars off from either side, using a flat screw driver, or other pry bar type tool. Do not damage the ends, they will need to be reused. Place in a safe place for later.

Next, brace the rear axle from falling and remove the bottom bolt of the rear shock... If you have the axle braced you can do both sides, this makes the spring removal easier.

4341542071_c902af97e0.jpg4341542149_f97ddbc156.jpg4341542237_218a62bcef.jpg

Be careful to not pull on any cables..

Cable for ebrake:
4341542313_331ac6a777_b.jpg

remove the ABS sensor cable from the frame...
4342282234_08184aaa12_b.jpg

Keep lowering axle slowly until you can work the spring out of the perch... Make note of any rubber cups that will need to go on the new spring. Lowering one side of the axle at a time helps...

4342282356_360ab7ebb8.jpg

Install the new spring just as the old one went in...
4341542777_b64d20048d.jpg

Raise the axle and re-install shacks, then sways.

Now the Ride Height Sensors... This has for some reason been a mystery around here... this is very simple. (For those that don't know) These bars attach the suspension to sensors to tell the truck how low/high the suspension is at any given time. If you lower your truck, these sensors are not going to be in the correct position, so Eibach (and others) include shorter bars to use in the kit to keep from causing error messages in the system.

The kit comes with a shorter pair and a longer pair. the shorter ones are for the rear...

The stock sensor bars have plastic ends that are pressed on. once the cap is pulled off (you may have to work it a little) it will look like this:

4341890497_d50fe9b025.jpg

OEM vs. Eibach size difference:

4342630554_59393ca089.jpg

You can see the Eibach bars are threaded, so just screw on the new ends as low as you can go with out over tightening.

4341891195_32fcebc398.jpg

Then just pop them back on.

4341939793_8e5fbb7b37.jpg

The bump stops need to come out, just pry them out of the cup and trim 30mm off the ends... (or replace with shorter ones)

4342678674_1c9b64ec2d.jpg4342679306_11a05b50c0.jpg

4341940099_138492209c_b.jpg

Put the wheels back on, torque properly, and move to the front...
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
vjr021

vjr021

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2009
Posts
310
Reaction score
20
Location
Clearwater, FL
For the front... I haven't seen a great write-up on installing torsion keys, and I think some (like I was) might be slightly gun shy... It was much easier than I thought.

Jack the front of the truck up, secure with jack stands, remove wheels.

Next pop off the ride height sensors (if you have them) and place aside.

Here is a shot of under the truck looking from front to rear... You can see the torsion bars runnigng just out side of the catalytic converters they are about four feet long, a little over an inch wide and look like a big six-point headed bolt on the front end.

4341541771_cc5b657c28_b.jpg

At the end of this bar towards the back is the torsion keys.

4342281622_5dae2b5268.jpg

These keys are held in place by the adjusting bolt...

4341541931_ffb7604f33.jpg

This is the mysterious Torsion Key tool...

4342231274_0707925c4a.jpg

If you buy one, it'll be around $100... You can usually borrow one from the local parts store, ask around... I don't recommend using a normal C Clamp, there is a lot of tension here, and you don't want to run the risk of the clamp breaking and having the key/bolt fly out at you.

The clamp goes on the cross beam like this, with the end of the clamp in the dimple on the key...
4342282658_0280a9baab_b.jpg

By cranking the clamp closed, you are removing the loads of tension off the adjusting bolt so you can crank it off and remove it.

It is a good time to mark the torsion bar's location to reference re-installation.

4341542997_d84f62b7b8_b.jpg

Now slowly un-screw the clamp, and the key/bar should be loose enough to wiggle. On some trucks, the key will be rusted to the end of the bar, it is a good idea to spray some penetrating spray on the keys a few days prior and again in the beginning.

4341543251_749814a4c4.jpg4342283036_0b4c214692.jpg

I used a brass drift to knock the torsion bar forward so the key could drop out.

4342283116_b8650afa57.jpg

Place the new key on the end of the bar, in the same spot as the old one, keeping everything just as it was when you removed it.
4342283238_75e5bb3738.jpg
4341491751_0271ddfe96_b.jpg

Using the torsion bar tool, crank the key back up, so you can re-install the bolt. crank bolt all the way, then loosen tool to add tension again.

Next swap out the ends of the sensor bars onto the new Eibach ones, and replace on truck. Keep in mind one end faced left the other right, (on the back they faced same side)

4341491385_c55d819999_b.jpg

Once everything was re-installed, and tightened, time for an alignment...

Before:

4342232256_9172899b9c_b.jpg

After:

4342232418_e2aee4e2aa_b.jpg

4342232098_c1d146d09c_b.jpg


Before: 4341497291_dd91e8c5da_o.jpg

After:

4342232650_93b1604c26_b.jpg

---------- Post added at 10:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:32 PM ----------

I also installed a set of belltech Shock Extenders... Very Easy...

Unbolt shock, place extenders in with washers, bolt in place, rebolt shocks.

4341890343_4e8c9bfdbf_b.jpg

4342629408_7a8786fa95_b.jpg

4341890877_3c132b492e_b.jpg
 

Modded

That Guy
Joined
May 3, 2009
Posts
6,942
Reaction score
107
Nice write up man, looks good on your Denali!!
Mods this is def. sticky material for the Tech section!!!
 
OP
OP
vjr021

vjr021

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2009
Posts
310
Reaction score
20
Location
Clearwater, FL
Thanks guys... Being new to the forum, I felt i should contribute!!! There will be more to come as I get more done...
 
OP
OP
vjr021

vjr021

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2009
Posts
310
Reaction score
20
Location
Clearwater, FL
Basically they are all the same.. The DJM ones look different but work the same.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
128,783
Posts
1,805,340
Members
91,761
Latest member
AlbertoTahoe2011
Top