Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
It's got chrome side mirrors, non standard suspension
Thanks for sharing this. Spent this am looking, decided to run sister wires alongside the ones I pictured as I felt they were most likely. Did not solve the issue. I couldn't find anything else that looked suspicious. Beginning to wonder if the motor mount was a red herring... Not sure where to turn next, I wonder if it could be a control module flaking out or something... Really bummed
Hopefully gonna try testing the cables from the battery today. One odd thing i have had is my driver side rear door fills up w/ water when it rains, i wonder if it can get high enough to have damaged something electrically ... windows and locks work fine so I think its low probability... probably just need new seals or unclog drain holes
I looked at that strap and it LOOKS ok... Maybe a little dusty. I did not check continuity yet... Tomorrow
Battery cables looked good, i didn't test before per the SB, but i cleaned stuff around the mega fuse (there was no arcing), and post cleaning the voltage drops were < 200mV... negative to the block was reading 130 mV, positive to the underhood buss electrical center was 50mV during cranking w/ injectors and coils disabled.
Ummm, I just noticed something... my battery is 1yr old agm, but after cranking it to test the voltage drop last night, and noticing the battery voltage was a little low, i put it on charger this am... it read 12 v and 25% charge... could that be the actual root cause? I dont see how as the alternator is putting out close to 14v most of the time when the engine is running, and the faults always occur w/ engine running...think i will buy a cig lighter voltage monitor...
open that door and drill 1 hole in the "bottom" on each end one closer towards the hinge area and one towards the handle, that will allow any water to drain whenever it rains
So I checked and cleaned the battery cable to the uh
I removed engine to chassis strap on driver's side and cleaned all contact surfaces. I measured the resistance from end to end while of the car at 0.1 ohms. I charged the battery and then took it for a short test drive... No issues so will continue driving to see if problem comes back
^truth
i think i will replace the battery negative cable to the engine block, since it seemed to have significant voltage drop (70% of allowable), and probably the block to body ground strap, which i would think should have like 0 resistance, out of abundance of caution...
I just ordered a replacement ground strap...
Which one is that? Do you mean under the defroster panel by windshield?
I did not check this one but I cleaned both ends of the battery negative to engine block cable, the battery end of the positive to under hood fuse/relay panel, and both ends of the engine block to body flexible ground strap on driver's side under hood. It's been 5 trips with no issues. The battery negative registers about 130-140 mV drop during engine cranking, which seemed close to the 200mV limit, so I aimed to replace that cable but have not found suitable replacement, and there is a 6 or 8 gage wire I think connected to it at the battery end that runs up somewhere into the passenger side front bumper as far as I can tell... Not sure what it is (blower motor ground???) so just going with the contact cleaning for now.... The ground strap I cleaned, but also ordered replacement for. If issue comes back I will check this next, or next time I get under car, whichever comes first. Thanks for all the advice!!!
