Distributor problems

[Back N Black]

I rebuilt my motor a few years ago, made it run, but have been fighting ignition issues ever since. I installed a Comp Cams Xtreme FI cam in it, ported and polished my heads at home, and installed heavier valve springs. What I didn’t do at the time, was swap in 1.60 rockers, due to cost issues. I made it run and drive under it’s own power, but I cannot seem to dial it in.

The first time made it run, I checked the timing, and I was +4*. A buddy and I restabbed the dizzy, on the third time, it ran. Sounded good. The problem is when driving it. I checked the timing again, and I was -22*. Again, it would run and drive. The problem was between 1500-2000 RPM (mostly), if I’m driving and not using a decent amount of throttle, it pops and bogs. My dad has been telling me to swap the dizzy for HEI, because that’s what was in it. As many times as I tell him that it was an OEM crab style dizzy, he still argues with me. I bought the Summit Racing dizzy. It’s a Davis Unified Igntion dizzy for a little less money. He refuses to believe that this is an upgraded, OEM-style dizzy.

Yesterday, my friend started playing with my timing. He’s far better with this than I am. We found TDC, set the pointer to #1, it wouldn’t even start. I’m pretty unfamiliar with the really technical stuff, like cams and setting the timing. Obviously. I’m still sure timing has to be adjusted to the cam to get it close enough for a tune. He set the timing to -15*. It ran, but popped like crazy at idle.

My dad is still stuck on that HEI. My dad is used to building carb motors, not FI. So, now for my question. Can I run an HEI dizzy, with FI, and the OEM computer, make it run, and not throw a code?

Also, it IS throwing codes for:

P1345
P1351

I’m thinking these are due to my timing. Any help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!

 

[drakon543]

p1345 is the computer sees the timing off where it wants to see it. how are you checking the timing btw? also ive had stupid luck getting the distributor in these dropped in without a code. i haven't had any luck with distributors tho. ofcourse my first one was expected as i used reman junk. my second was the msd "upgrade" and the rotor mount seperated from the shaft somewhat and chewed everything up. the third was a brand new which i have no idea there it just quit without any signs. the 4th is another new one but im unsure of the brand i didnt have time to deal with it that time so i just dropped it at a garage. anyway you have to be within 2° of 0 to clear p1345 and have it run correctly. if you check it with a scanner with cam retard function thats how you get 0. outside of that with your upgrades you may want to talk to comp cams for proper timing position. also you may need a tune to allow it to run at a different timing point. if its still trying to use the factory timing graph it will keep trying to pull the timing back to keep it running where as with your upgrades you could actually need it further.

 

[east302]

The computer is controlling the timing, so I’m pretty sure that you cannot really set it like this.

The P1345 code is, as said, the CMP/CKP correlation code being thrown because, likely, the offset wasn’t reset when the distributor was replaced. There’s a thread on here about using an app (CarGauge Pro or DashCommand) with an OBD adapter to set it.

The P1351 code is an ignition issue, so that’s not helping things, either. Here’s the diagnostic table on that.

I’d get the codes resolved and go from there.

Hope this helps.

















And here’s the distributor install in case you need it...
















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