Daylight Running Lights

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Colorado Yeti

Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2019
Posts
67
Reaction score
95
Location
Ft. Collins
I just bought a 1999 2-door Z-71 Tahoe and it has a green light on the dash that is on during the day and it is supposed to indicate that the daylight running lamps are on. However, I do not have any lights on unless I actually turn on the lights. Is that normal or should i have these lights on during the day? Are they the inboard or outboard lights below the main headlights? I suppose that both of the bulbs might be burned out but I think that is highly unlikley. Thanks!
 

east302

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2016
Posts
1,558
Reaction score
1,389
Location
Mississippi
The DRLs are the low-beams and should come on when the headlights are off and parking brake disengaged.

Someone may have pulled the fuse, maybe check that. Diagrams say it’s number 15.

2d47772f820c597046ddbe8ed5c4aee6.gif

bd1613cadc8ddfbc23e9ae537392358f.gif

3e4eae0de6b14f44286f6cce990ad6d5.gif


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Sean James

Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2018
Posts
81
Reaction score
68
Location
Mountains of Utah
Look under the dash, right under the steering wheel, see the pic attached or above. Stupid Daytime Running Lights, the most dumbest thing ever invented by Government Burearcrats ever. If this module has been removed, you will have the green light illuminated on the dash during the day with with the lights off. It is telling you that your DRL's are not on. If the module has been removed it is not usually a problem on the 99's. But some have reported that it can interfere with other circuts. Do more research.

Oh Hell, I can't even remember anymore...that's how stupid and unsafe they are. I have removed these modules from 2 of my 99 tahoe's and a '98 Yukon without any issues.

Previous owner could have pulled the fuse, but most fuses are tied into 2 or more circuts so something else would not work as well (a way to track down faults). They are actually unsafe because you could be driving with the DRL's on and not turn on your actual headlights when it gets dark out (and hence, no tail-lights or side markers). Whatever, if another driver can't see a big old Tahoe coming down the road at them at 70 mph...well, you get the idea. If you don't have the module pictured above, then you may have the circut board type, housed in a green plastic box in the same location. 99's were on the cusp of using both types.

Yes, there are soldered resistors that can be removed or added if you have the circut board type. (keep doing a search on this site). OR you can put a piece of black tape over the "green" light and ignore it. OR, you can use it to your advantage like many of us here.

Real drivers, like Commercial Truck Drivers, always cut off their headlights and leave ON their parking lights when parked, or stopped and even manuvering at very slow speeds to park. This is a courtesy to other truckers, and even "car drivers". It also reduces the amps drawn by the alternator when the headlights are not needed, but the marker lamps should be illuminated for safety reasons. Truckers, due to their size, always try not to blind other truckers that are backing up or trying to park out of courtesy and safety, most of us car drivers have no idea what they must go through, and all it takes is a few idiots with their headlights on in their mirror's to totally screw them up and blind them (they have HUGE mirrors).

So many of us "real drivers" that have "deleted" our DRL's, will use the green lamp to let us know, at night, that the parking lights are ON, but that the headlights are OFF. (the green lamp goes off when you turn on the full headlights). During the day, the green light on the dash is a very small annoyance, in exchange for a reminder to turn on the headlights after using just the parking lights, especially after leaving a shopping center etc. when there are a lot of city lights illuminating the area. Hard to explain, stupid Government B.S. Ever seen cars driving down the freeway or highway at night with no tail-lights...thats becasue their DRL's are on and they think that their headlights on!! Real freaking safe Government idiots! Or maybe it's just the idiot driver that doesn't notice that none of his gauge lights are on, and his tail-lights are not on, his side-markers are not on, but "damn, my headlights seem kinda dim honey"...maybe I need a new battery,

Freaking morons!
 

grouch

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2019
Posts
1,275
Reaction score
2,963
My headlights sort of work automatically on my early 2000 Escalade. Sometimes at night they come on but sometimes not. When they work automatically, I can't turn my headlights to park only. I sometimes go onto a military base and make CERTAIN to turn my headlights off and only have my park lamps on. Sentry's get really upset when you blind them. I don't like upsetting armed military people providing security. I replaced the headlight switch and the clicking went away, but they still have a mind of their own.
 

Sean James

Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2018
Posts
81
Reaction score
68
Location
Mountains of Utah
There is also a post about removing the DRL module under the steering column, the post said that removing the module may disable your seat belt retractor on the floor next to the door. (the mechanism that locks the seatbelt during a hard stop or crash). So I spent an hour taking the cover off the retractor assembly, and looking for wires or some type of electric actuators and there was none on my '99 5.7 So at least on my early '99 tahoe and yukon this is not an issue, it's all mechanical, no wires or electronics. But there was a bunch of crap inside the cover, dirt, gum wrappers and some zig-zags. I cleaned it all out, blew it out with compressed air and made it pretty again. There are a few weights and springs that operate the locking mechanism, make sure they are all free and no sticky soda or coffee residue in there (it happens). Now it looks like new and operates more smoothly. I had to adapt a couple of sheet metal screws to get the cover to stay on the way it was, because there was two rivets holding the plastic cover on that I had to drill out to slide the cover up. I had to know, didn't want to get in a wreck and just have the seat belts fail to lock or retract. Who would ever think to clean the retractors anyway, but on a 20 year old truck, there can be a lot of junk that has fallen down that little slot where the seat belt comes out of the floor.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
129,131
Posts
1,810,902
Members
92,218
Latest member
SteveandKish
Top