Crazy engine light

[Woodblocker55]

Ok just out of blue I got this . I started it with remote start . And got the reduce engine speed and had to shut off and restart to get it out of it's confusion the throttle wouldnt even work till I shut it off and back on. 2 times . Only thing I can think it could be our weather is crazy above freezing then below freezing and I was testing driving in winter storms so . It's all outside Yukon XL 2006 so condinsation would be in the cards . Anyone else ever had this come on just out of the blue . 181,000 miles.

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[wjburken]

Ok just out of blue I got this . I started it with remote start . And got the reduce engine speed and had to shut off and restart to get it out of it's confusion the throttle wouldnt even work till I shut it off and back on. 2 times . Only thing I can think it could be our weather is crazy above freezing then below freezing and I was testing driving in winter storms so . It's all outside Yukon XL 2006 so condinsation would be in the cards . Anyone else ever had this come on just out of the blue . 181,000 miles.

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How old is your battery?

 

[Woodblocker55]

How old is your battery?

I will take a look . [emoji106]

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[OR VietVet]

Lots of threads here about crazy codes all of a sudden or ghost lights going crazy. Typically leads to battery probs or ground wire probs. Could something in the "drive by wire" system be going nuts?

 

[Woodblocker55]

Yes I can image I live in middle of 6 Acer's oaks .
You know how many acorns 150 year old oaks can put out 250-300 trees . This happened 2 years ago deer still stop by and scrap them out of dirt . But guess how many other critters it draws.. so ya chewed wires are common around here . But I was watching volt meter today . 14-18 volts but it does it vary erratically after you start right to 18 and 3 miles later back to 14v . So I'm thinking you guys are right Battery . it's from Walmart 2.5 years old . But I can't find date on battery .. might of sat in store somewhere for 3 years . I'm working on it later tonight . I got another battery to try.

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[rockola1971]

If your voltage is ok and within tolerance then you may have a legit Reduced engine code. This has DBW(Drive by wire). There will be a TAC (Throttle actuator control) module up on your firewall next to your brake booster. This is what communicates your throttle position at the throttle and the control to your throttle body which has an electric motor and a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). The Tps feeds back to the TAC module and if your commanded position is not within a certain percentage of actual then it goes into reduced power mode which is basically idle. This prevent a runaway condition. The 2 common failures in this system are worn wipers in the potentiometer of the TPS or the wiring harness that comes off the throttle motor (electric). The wires tend to break inches away from the plug. Just the wire not the insulation so not easy to see but can be felt. Both failures require part replacement. If your TPS is original, it will be riveted in place. There are other possible causes which include bad TAC module, Bad Throttle Motor, Bad throttle pedal potentiometer and broken system wiring.

 

[Woodblocker55]

Yes it has rivets . I'm going to try different battery first and clear codes to see if it happens again .
I drove it about 3 times to town worked perfect only thing I noticed maybe a lower idle 500 rpms was around 650-700 rpm before .

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[BG1988]

Yes I can image I live in middle of 6 Acer's oaks .
You know how many acorns 150 year old oaks can put out 250-300 trees . This happened 2 years ago deer still stop by and scrap them out of dirt . But guess how many other critters it draws.. so ya chewed wires are common around here . But I was watching volt meter today . 14-18 volts but it does it vary erratically after you start right to 18 and 3 miles later back to 14v . So I'm thinking you guys are right Battery . it's from Walmart 2.5 years old . But I can't find date on battery .. might of sat in store somewhere for 3 years . I'm working on it later tonight . I got another battery to try.

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take it to walmart they got the S/N in the system 18 volts is way too high
the alternator Bridge rectifier or voltage regulator is bad

 

[BG1988]

with the u0107 that rules out the failure of the throttle system

it just says you lost power to the TAC module


the other codes were a domino effect because you lost communications to the TAC


put the key to the run position for 4 seconds then start it

if it starts fine then you have an issue with the battery or charging system (including the ground wires and or wires to the control module )

 

[Woodblocker55]

Put new battery in all fixed no light . I cleared codes it acted up a bit on temp gauge but couple stops and starts all good no money light now . Crazy.. going take battery in tomorrow see if Walmart honors their 3-year return policy. [emoji849][emoji106][emoji53] Must have some dead cells . Thanks for all great info ..
Its good info for others to. It was just pounding out fault codes on that old battery . Here's the freak me out codes ..[emoji849][emoji849][emoji106]

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[Woodblocker55]

with the u0107 that rules out the failure of the throttle system

it just says you lost power to the TAC module


the other codes were a domino effect because you lost communications to the TAC


put the key to the run position for 4 seconds then start it

if it starts fine then you have an issue with the battery or charging system (including the ground wires and or wires to the control module )

You were right on the money [emoji106] thanks for the post . Switched battery out and it's fine .

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[wjburken]

Put new battery in all fixed no light . I cleared codes it acted up a bit on temp gauge but couple stops and starts all good no money light now . Crazy.. going take battery in tomorrow see if Walmart honors their 3-year return policy. [emoji849][emoji106][emoji53] Must have some dead cells . Thanks for all great info ..
Its good info for others to. It was just pounding out fault codes on that old battery . Here's the freak me out codes ..[emoji849][emoji849][emoji106]

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Glad to hear that a new battery appears to have solved your problem. These trucks hate any sort of voltage issue. That is why Ron and I asked about your battery right away when you posted all those codes.

Keep an eye on your voltage to make sure you don’t have a bad voltage regulator.

 

[Woodblocker55]

Glad to hear that a new battery appears to have solved your problem. These trucks hate any sort of voltage issue. That is why Ron and I asked about your battery right away when you posted all those codes.

Keep an eye on your voltage to make sure you don’t have a bad voltage regulator.

The new battery . Voltage meter stays just a bit over 14 volts all the time now . Doesn't move much at all . Thanks for the info . I will keep a eye on it ..

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[OR VietVet]

Glad to hear that a new battery appears to have solved your problem. These trucks hate any sort of voltage issue. That is why Ron and I asked about your battery right away when you posted all those codes.

Keep an eye on your voltage to make sure you don’t have a bad voltage regulator.

Wade knows how much I preach basics first and he does too. When the crazy shit starts hitting the fan I have never been one, or Wade either, to start off by saying throw this part at it and this part at it. Gets pricey real quick and can discourage the hell out of you. The heart of the electrical system is the battery and that, just like your ticker in your chest, has to be up to ***** 100% for sure before you can give thought to even the well known ground wire problems. I am very glad the battery fixed this problem. Hopefully you made very sure the connections at the battery were just as pristine as the new battery. Wade said it all when he said these touchy vehicles hate voltage problems. By the way, who makes Wal-Mart batteries?

Also, like Wade said, keep a close eye on that voltage regulator reading because the voltage problem could have accelerated any wear and tear on that regulator.

 

[Woodblocker55]

I got one code I can't shake it just came back after 2 start cycles. [emoji849][emoji15]

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[BG1988]

I got one code I can't shake it just came back after 2 start cycles. [emoji849][emoji15]

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that is because the 18volts fried it. luckily that is the only thing that got fried..


2 cycles is correct Voltage Low During Driver open state
Indicates Short to ground or open circuit or voltage high during driver closed state


Indicates short to voltage (short to ground)


check the fuse


P0135 confirms the issue with the heater in the O2 sensor



Driver Side Bank 1 sensor 1 (Pre-cat)


I recommend replacement of all 4 sensors if one is bad the others soon to follow




you can swap the sensors from bank2 to bank 1 if the Code moves to bank2 then it's confirmed that the sensor is bad..

 

[wjburken]

I got one code I can't shake it just came back after 2 start cycles. [emoji849][emoji15]

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As mentioned by Brent, there is a chance that your O2 sensor was damaged when your system was putting out too much voltage. At 181K, they are more susceptible to failure anyways.

Before you just change out an O2 sensor, make sure you don’t have something going on with the wiring like a corroded connector or a broken wire. My guess is you need a new O2 sensor, but it’s good to make sure your wiring is all in order before you go about swapping sensors.

More than once I thought I needed to replace an O2 sensor only to find I had an issue with the wires.

If you do end up needing to replace the O2 sensor, you will want to soak the threads in Kroil for a few days so hopefully the sensor will give you less of a fight to come out. They can be stubborn, to say the least.

 

[OR VietVet]

As Wade said and Brent said, soak in the best penetrant, which is Kroil, cannot find better than that and I never am without it. Likely gonna change at least one sensor but like these guys said, do all four because they are all likely the same age. Just putting the penetrant on it will not stop you checking all the wiring. Likely damaged the sensor with the 18 volts and also may still have probs down the road with the regulator. Kroil is miracle oil candidate for sure and you will be glad you have it when needed. Expensive when compared to others but is the best.

Isn't it funny how things blow up from what you hoped was something simple but think of it this way. Look at all the new parts you will now have on your rig and can cross off your "to do" list. Like I have said many times, if it has **** or a key, you will have problems and must treat each of them with soft hands and money as needed.

 

[Woodblocker55]

As Wade said and Brent said, soak in the best penetrant, which is Kroil, cannot find better than that and I never am without it. Likely gonna change at least one sensor but like these guys said, do all four because they are all likely the same age. Just putting the penetrant on it will not stop you checking all the wiring. Likely damaged the sensor with the 18 volts and also may still have probs down the road with the regulator. Kroil is miracle oil candidate for sure and you will be glad you have it when needed. Expensive when compared to others but is the best.

Isn't it funny how things blow up from what you hoped was something simple but think of it this way. Look at all the new parts you will now have on your rig and can cross off your "to do" list. Like I have said many times, if it has **** or a key, you will have problems and must treat each of them with soft hands and money as needed.

Yes the keys and **** dilemma.lol . I will get there.. back to ordering parts .. What brand O2 ? Do I take full GM *** deal ? Or is there a key deals out there? lol ... I always need to ask . Thanks for all feed back .. The first owner put a flush kit on there and you guessed that started to leak on heater hose clamps and cap were loose a real nice unhood steam bath dropped right in exhaust manifold .
It's always something .. everyone in Walmart parking lot were pretty impressed . I think they were waiting for flames I really let them down ..I don't know if it was all the steam or the instant monkey mechanic action . [emoji106][emoji41]

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[OR VietVet]

AC Delco sensors from Rock Auto.