Crank no start

[steveo1]

Taking it to a mechanic would be great.. it's my daughter's Tahoe that I gave her couple years back.. the value of the car verses what I'll likely spend with a mechanic done way out...I know that's where it needs to go but honestly at this poi

I would recommend doing a cranking test and then pull a couple spark plugs and see if they are wet with fuel nodes smell like it. That will help direct your diagnosis as well. I'd maybe inspect 2 before trying this: burning them clean with a small torch reinstall, test crank a couple times, and then remove again and inspect.

If they are covered in fuel, then you know spark or air is gone (it runs on starting fluid, so I'm suspecting air is OK). If there is no fuel coating or smell, then you have a fuel problem.

I'm not ruling out the PASS LOCK, but like stated above, you'd need a better scanner to dig into that one. Hope this helps!

Here are couple videos showing spark color and amount of spark..and noid light for injector pulse

 

[Fless]

TYF doesn't host videos, you need to use YouTube or some other host, and post the link to it in your message.

Why are you repeating yourself?

 

[B-train]

So you stated that the plugs weren't wet, or very wet, after a start attempt? Could you smell fuel on them?

Have you tried, or verified, if you have good pump flow? I know you said the presusee came up to 58 psi? Maybe pull the fuel line off the rail and into a container. Then have someone do a momentary crank cycle to see if you are actually getting flow to the rail. Just a suggestion.

 

[steveo1]

TYF doesn't host videos, you need to use YouTube or some other host, and post the link to it in your message.

Why are you repeating yourself?

 

[steveo1]

 

[steveo1]

Hopefully this helps see what I'm seeing

 

[Doubeleive]

I would check the injectors next, engine is cranking and you have spark, verify fuel, verify the injector harness ground is good and that they are getting power.

 

[steveo1]

If you have a minute can you call me nine three seven five zero nine seven one zero four...

 

[B-train]

When you did your spark test, was that one from an engine cylinder or a test one? If it was one from a cylinder, did fuel mist spray out of that hole when cranking? If all 8 plugs were in, I hear a high spot in the cranking revolution. Usually that is indicative of a bad cylinder - either valve or cam related. Or timing way off.

One word to the wise - if you did pull a plug to test spark and didn't kill the fuel pump, you could end up with less hair on you! Experience talking here.......brain farted one time when testing and had a fireball in the engine bay. The sound deadening rhat attaches to the bottom of the hood is quite flammable. Had to change my shorts after that one......

 

[B-train]

If you have a minute can you call me nine three seven five zero nine seven one zero four...

Tried calling but Google screening service denied me.

 

[steveo1]

Here's couple videos that didn't post earlier for some reason.. and noid light signal appears to be falling off with the cranking THOUGHTS ?

 

[steveo1]

 

[steveo1]

And remember truck will run and idle smooth on starting fluid momentarily as if there were no issues

 

[B-train]

Does anyone else seem to hear the HIGH spot in the crank cycle? Or am I just being fooled?

It does appear that the light isn't getting a proper or strong signal. It also appears as though that circuit is being affected by the cranking cycle - watch the light flicker with crank start and end. I wonder if the PCM has an issue for the injector driver. Either that or it's input is bad or weak.

One last thought I have based on the high spot in the cranking test. Have you checked compression on the cylinders? If it's out of time, it should show up as low compression. 90-130 psi after 3 hits is normal from what I've seen historically. You'll need a second set of hands unless you have a long hose for the tester.

But, you did say that the plugs are dry when removed after cranking. Which means no injector pulse to open. You also said that you have good flow from the pump, so supply isn't an issue. I'm not too well versed on what can keep the injectors from firing computer wise though. Would need a bidirectional scanner to perform tests and see real time data.

 

[rockola1971]

That spark is orange. That is not right. It should be a pretty blue color. Orange or white is a NO GO. Starter sounds weak too. Whats your battery voltage at DURING CRANKING, measured at battery?

 

[972sparky]

Could be a really bad tank of fuel. I would take the fuel line off just past the filter and run the pump into a glass jar and verify the flow rate and check the fuel for water/debris. Could have plugged all the injectors with junk from the first bad pump and old filter or just bad fuel. There was a gas station near me that got a trash load of fuel and ruined several car's fuel systems, the symptoms were similar to those you described before the first pump replacement. Cost the station a lot of $$$ to fix all the cars that broke. They had to clean all their tanks, lines, filters and pumps as well. It sure seems to be a fuel issue.

 

[steveo1]

Gonna post a link to video showing scanner results... Standby

 

[steveo1]

 

[steveo1]

Total 52 codes between the codes listed..

I realize that's a lot..which though would keep it from running...fyi...map sensor was unplugged as a way to diagnose..it's sense been plugged up..

 

[Fless]

SWAG: pull the two PCM/ECM connectors and check for cleanliness and good fitment, and water migration.

Reinstall the old crank position sensor.

Test for fuel volume and quality at one of the injectors.

Temporarily ground engine block to negative battery connection. As @rockola1971 asked, what is the voltage on this new battery while cranking?