Catalytic converter replacement

[mijohnst]

My wife drives a 2015 Escalade ESV with the 6.0 and about a month ago the stupid engine light popped on which is coding that one of the catalytic converters is bad. I've tried clearing the code (which it would not let me do) and mixing some lacquer thinner with the gas. That didn't work, so I'm guessing that it really is bad. Recently, we had the car to the dealership for some warranty work and I asked the service person what it would cost to have it replaced. She said it would be $4990 plus tax. Good Grief...

So, I guess my options are to find a garage to do it cheaper or do it myself. I've replaced the catalytic converters on a 2005 Tahoe and it doesn't seem too bad after getting all the bolts and nuts off without breaking them. Anything I should worry about on the 6.0 engine? Disconnect the O2 sensors, unbolt from the exhaust manifolds and muffler and possibly remove the transmission cross member? Also, would RockAuto or Summit be a good place to buy them from?

I appreciate the help!

 

[iamdub]

My wife drives a 2015 Escalade ESV with the 6.0 and about a month ago the stupid engine light popped on which is coding that one of the catalytic converters is bad.

The engine light popping on could mean a plethora of other things. Or do you mean you had it scanned and the code was related to the catalyst system? If so, what was the code(s)?

I've tried clearing the code (which it would not let me do) and mixing some lacquer thinner with the gas. That didn't work, so I'm guessing that it really is bad. Recently, we had the car to the dealership for some warranty work and I asked the service person what it would cost to have it replaced. She said it would be $4990 plus tax. Good Grief...

So, I guess my options are to find a garage to do it cheaper or do it myself. I've replaced the catalytic converters on a 2005 Tahoe and it doesn't seem too bad after getting all the bolts and nuts off without breaking them. Anything I should worry about on the 6.0 engine? Disconnect the O2 sensors, unbolt from the exhaust manifolds and muffler and possibly remove the transmission cross member? Also, would RockAuto or Summit be a good place to buy them from?

I appreciate the help!

If the problem is indeed failed cats, I'd first look into any possible reasons why they failed. With an engine operating as it should, they should last a really long time, ideally, the life of the vehicle. Also, be aware that this vehicle has a 6.2 so you're not searching for cats for an engine that doesn't exist. Aside from that, I'd imagine they'd be just like any other late model GM SUV where they're built into the Y-pipe assembly and you replace that as a whole. I'd advise against aftermarket cats, both "universal/weld-in" and full Y-pipe assemblies. They tend to be much less effective than OEM cats. To cut costs, you could get the cheaper aftermarket ones and have the downstream ("rear") O2 sensors disabled in a tune.

 

[Tonyrodz]

You can give this a shot.
Cataclean 120007 Complete Engine, Fuel and Exhaust System Cleaner, 473 Milliliter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BVXM92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_YY5W9QE0X80GFWVG8514

 

[swathdiver]

Are you getting a P0420 or P0430 code(s)? Check first for leaks around the exhaust manifolds and the connection between the manifolds and Y-Pipe. That can allow air into the system and give false readings triggering the code. Other than that, a P0430 means nothing other than the cat has gone bad. Usually, some type of AFM failure causes it.

Don't use cheap Chicom cats, they won't last a year. Use GM OE or Walker or Magnaflow. I recommend the former and latter and have had Magnaflow cats and y-pipe on my truck now for 4 years and 50k trouble free miles. Current prices are coming back down from space, I think you got a space estimate, they are not that expensive online. Last guy I looked them up for last week, $1000 to $1500 give or take a few hundred.

 

[Doubeleive]

My wife drives a 2015 Escalade ESV with the 6.0 and about a month ago the stupid engine light popped on which is coding that one of the catalytic converters is bad. I've tried clearing the code (which it would not let me do) and mixing some lacquer thinner with the gas. That didn't work, so I'm guessing that it really is bad. Recently, we had the car to the dealership for some warranty work and I asked the service person what it would cost to have it replaced. She said it would be $4990 plus tax. Good Grief...

So, I guess my options are to find a garage to do it cheaper or do it myself. I've replaced the catalytic converters on a 2005 Tahoe and it doesn't seem too bad after getting all the bolts and nuts off without breaking them. Anything I should worry about on the 6.0 engine? Disconnect the O2 sensors, unbolt from the exhaust manifolds and muffler and possibly remove the transmission cross member? Also, would RockAuto or Summit be a good place to buy them from?

I appreciate the help!

cat prices have risen since covid, but it may still be cheaper to get the cat alone, if you do not have to have a carb complaint and only need a federal then they are even cheaper
check the magna flow website it will ask for a number that is under hood near the airbox to confirm the cat type needed.
then all you need to do is have a muffler shop cut out the old one and weld in the new one, usually getting one from the muffler shop is cheaper anyway all around.
as mentioned above "sometimes" it's the 02 sensor but that's a $50+ roll of the dice

 

[Doubeleive]

The engine light popping on could mean a plethora of other things. Or do you mean you had it scanned and the code was related to the catalyst system? If so, what was the code(s)?




If the problem is indeed failed cats, I'd first look into any possible reasons why they failed. With an engine operating as it should, they should last a really long time, ideally, the life of the vehicle. Also, be aware that this vehicle has a 6.2 so you're not searching for cats for an engine that doesn't exist. Aside from that, I'd imagine they'd be just like any other late model GM SUV where they're built into the Y-pipe assembly and you replace that as a whole. I'd advise against aftermarket cats, both "universal/weld-in" and full Y-pipe assemblies. They tend to be much less effective than OEM cats. To cut costs, you could get the cheaper aftermarket ones and have the downstream ("rear") O2 sensors disabled in a tune.

really depends on where he lives, in Cali that won't fly at all they get under the vehicle and visually check and now they check the "tune" also

 

[iamdub]

really depends on where he lives, in Cali that won't fly at all they get under the vehicle and visually check and now they check the "tune" also

Cali's always gotta spoil the party. I get checking the tune, but what about the cats- do they have to be OEM?

 

[Doubeleive]

Cali's always gotta spoil the party. I get checking the tune, but what about the cats- do they have to be OEM?

they just have to be carb compliant, which means the manufacture went thru the process of having them certified with the state which from all appearances does not seem to be a big deal but many do not take the time to do it I don't know what fee's are involved I have seen the application paperwork looks pretty straightforward, the only issue I see is it has to be done for each variety of vehicle, year make and model, etc

 

[Blackcar]

I don't know month vehicle was put in service, but I believe emissions system has 8-year warranty.

 

[iamdub]

they just have to be carb compliant, which means the manufacture went thru the process of having them certified with the state which from all appearances does not seem to be a big deal but many do not take the time to do it I don't know what fee's are involved I have seen the application paperwork looks pretty straightforward, the only issue I see is it has to be done for each variety of vehicle, year make and model, etc

Do this and dare them to offend you.