Hey guys first post here, I’m about to buy an 05 Tahoe LT with 238k miles she listed it originally at $3500 and I offered $2k cash and she accepted, from the pictures it looks to be in decent enough shape tbh, pictures attached. Also she said the ac actuator and ac hoses need to be replaced because the air doesn’t work. Anything particular I should lookout for that’s common with these models?? She just put a new thermostat and water pump on as wel
Buying an 05 Tahoe LT any tips?
- Thread starter CVP0627
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
svrh89
TYF Newbie
- Joined
- May 7, 2022
- Posts
- 11
- Reaction score
- 26
Looks great; as long as its not rusted you made out in my opinion.
The ac compressor runs off its own belt and I have heard of people condemning their ac system when all it needed was the belt replaced.
based on all the research i have done here. the electronic 4x4 switch, the 4l60e transmission, if you have the G80 RPO code you have a rear locker that has common issues when used under heavy load (however, I have been told the carrier bearings just wear fast), steering column likes to make noises via the telescoping column needing to be regreased, leather seats cracks, headliner drops, rear main seal is a really common issue with the ls motor, check your rpo codes if you got auto leveling or the nivomat shocks than updating suspension isn't as easy as it could be.
I know I am missing some stuff but to be honest in my opinion outside making sure your transmission is shifting well and happy this truck I don't think has to many stand out issues outside normal wear of an old vehicle. Most of the common things I hear people say they do to their rig that make a big difference is bigger front brakes via the 2007 tahoe parts, a bigger trans cooler via tru-cool cooler. after that it just depends on what you want to do to your tahoe.
adding in the cluster goes bad often
first step is translating your RPO codes and searching what came standard on your vehicle to see what you really got for two grand.
there is also a really cool stickied thread in this section that brakes down the different models and years and other common issues within that. "Thinking of Buying a 00-06 NBS Tahoe/Suburban? Look Here"
The ac compressor runs off its own belt and I have heard of people condemning their ac system when all it needed was the belt replaced.
based on all the research i have done here. the electronic 4x4 switch, the 4l60e transmission, if you have the G80 RPO code you have a rear locker that has common issues when used under heavy load (however, I have been told the carrier bearings just wear fast), steering column likes to make noises via the telescoping column needing to be regreased, leather seats cracks, headliner drops, rear main seal is a really common issue with the ls motor, check your rpo codes if you got auto leveling or the nivomat shocks than updating suspension isn't as easy as it could be.
I know I am missing some stuff but to be honest in my opinion outside making sure your transmission is shifting well and happy this truck I don't think has to many stand out issues outside normal wear of an old vehicle. Most of the common things I hear people say they do to their rig that make a big difference is bigger front brakes via the 2007 tahoe parts, a bigger trans cooler via tru-cool cooler. after that it just depends on what you want to do to your tahoe.
adding in the cluster goes bad often
first step is translating your RPO codes and searching what came standard on your vehicle to see what you really got for two grand.
there is also a really cool stickied thread in this section that brakes down the different models and years and other common issues within that. "Thinking of Buying a 00-06 NBS Tahoe/Suburban? Look Here"
Last edited:
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
That's a Z71 not LT model. I've read the electronic display hvac units have some issues. Does it work? Could just be that if it doesn't.
S33k3r
Full Access Member
I hope it's not the evaporator core.
MassHoe04
Full Access Member
Very nice! Look great! You did well!! For that price, you might afford to replace whatever needs replacing or repair on the HVAC and still be way ahead of the game.
I bought an 04 Z71 last October and paid $6,500!
It ran great, interior was near mint and major body panels were good.
It was missing the Z71 rack with canoe roller and the rocker panels need replacement or slip-ons to cover.
For many $6,500 might be considered high. It may have been higher than maybe a year or two ago, due to the crazy used car market and all the "supply chain issues" for people unable to get new cars/trucks.
Believe it or not, in New England, the only vehicles selling for $2k have nothing left to give.
Parts Tahoes around here go for $1,500 - $2k all day in this area.
If you ever have to bail on it, know that you still have a good amount of cash in reserve. If you part it you could make more than what you paid.
Not sure what region yours is in, but take a peek under the plastic cladding on the rockers and look inside the wheel wells just to make sure there isn't any rust you need to deal with. But, really... Nice truck and 235k miles in not a bad thing. Mine is just over 201k and runs like a champ!
I bought an 04 Z71 last October and paid $6,500!
It ran great, interior was near mint and major body panels were good.
It was missing the Z71 rack with canoe roller and the rocker panels need replacement or slip-ons to cover.
For many $6,500 might be considered high. It may have been higher than maybe a year or two ago, due to the crazy used car market and all the "supply chain issues" for people unable to get new cars/trucks.
Believe it or not, in New England, the only vehicles selling for $2k have nothing left to give.
Parts Tahoes around here go for $1,500 - $2k all day in this area.
If you ever have to bail on it, know that you still have a good amount of cash in reserve. If you part it you could make more than what you paid.
Not sure what region yours is in, but take a peek under the plastic cladding on the rockers and look inside the wheel wells just to make sure there isn't any rust you need to deal with. But, really... Nice truck and 235k miles in not a bad thing. Mine is just over 201k and runs like a champ!
Joseph Garcia
Supporting Member
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2018
- Posts
- 6,512
- Reaction score
- 8,512
Welcome to the Forum from NH.
Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.
I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.
You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.
Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.
I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.
You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Looks like a clean Z71.
...Now, for the cynical perspective: Why the new thermostat and water pump? Was it leaking or does/did it have overheating issues? Coming $1,500 off of what seems like an already good price (in this market) sounds like she really wants to offload it. Hopefully, it's just due to personal reasons and not because it's a lemon.
Check out all the vitals, just as anyone should do with any used car purchase.
Last edited:
SnowDrifter
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2016
- Posts
- 2,405
- Reaction score
- 2,591
That's a steal!!
At ~240k, honestly, my main concern would be the transmission if it's not been replaced. That's on the high end of the 'bathtub curve' for failure rates if it's original.
Things I would check / do:
- Inspect coolant for deposits and buildup. Should change it regardless, but that'll tell you how much scrubbing or cleaning you have to do. If the coolant has any buildup at all, at a minimum, I'd back-flush the heater cores and put an OEM thermostat in. Aftermarkets have a smaller valve, don't work nearly as well. Rationale for heater cores is that the cooling loop on these relies on flow through them to actuate the thermostat. If they're clogged, you'll be chasing overheats. If you ever want to bypass them for any reason, then the way to do this is to get a U hose and connect the input/output together on the water pump. Do NOT try to block it off.
- Inspect soft parts. Belts, idlers, hoses, brake lines, brake pads, CV axles, ball joints, suspension bushings, etc. Replace as needed.
- Check transmission fluid with the vehicle running, hot, after driving for 15-20 mins. Consider changing the fluid. Exclusion criteria is: burnt smell, or particulates floating in the fluid. If neither of those exist, give 'er a refresh.
- Change fluids in general. Give yourself a clean start. Engine oil, transmission fluid, diff fluid, t-case, brake fluid, power steering.
- Plug an OBD reader on there and see if there are any pending codes
- Give the thing a general once-over. Check for fluid leaks, interior leaks. Make sure bulbs work, weather seals are in good condition, brake pads/rotor condition. Tackle stuff you find as you find it.
- Go get the alignment checked.
- Outside of general age related wear, common things on these vehicles are: differential issues, gauge-cluster stepper issues, oil sender leaks, transmission failure, transfer case pump rub, gross coolant, climate control issues (hot/cold and face/feet blend doors).
At ~240k, honestly, my main concern would be the transmission if it's not been replaced. That's on the high end of the 'bathtub curve' for failure rates if it's original.
Things I would check / do:
- Inspect coolant for deposits and buildup. Should change it regardless, but that'll tell you how much scrubbing or cleaning you have to do. If the coolant has any buildup at all, at a minimum, I'd back-flush the heater cores and put an OEM thermostat in. Aftermarkets have a smaller valve, don't work nearly as well. Rationale for heater cores is that the cooling loop on these relies on flow through them to actuate the thermostat. If they're clogged, you'll be chasing overheats. If you ever want to bypass them for any reason, then the way to do this is to get a U hose and connect the input/output together on the water pump. Do NOT try to block it off.
- Inspect soft parts. Belts, idlers, hoses, brake lines, brake pads, CV axles, ball joints, suspension bushings, etc. Replace as needed.
- Check transmission fluid with the vehicle running, hot, after driving for 15-20 mins. Consider changing the fluid. Exclusion criteria is: burnt smell, or particulates floating in the fluid. If neither of those exist, give 'er a refresh.
- Change fluids in general. Give yourself a clean start. Engine oil, transmission fluid, diff fluid, t-case, brake fluid, power steering.
- Plug an OBD reader on there and see if there are any pending codes
- Give the thing a general once-over. Check for fluid leaks, interior leaks. Make sure bulbs work, weather seals are in good condition, brake pads/rotor condition. Tackle stuff you find as you find it.
- Go get the alignment checked.
- Outside of general age related wear, common things on these vehicles are: differential issues, gauge-cluster stepper issues, oil sender leaks, transmission failure, transfer case pump rub, gross coolant, climate control issues (hot/cold and face/feet blend doors).
Update: she backed out of the deal the day of, ugh but I got super lucky because of that I found another 04 Tahoe with 217k miles I’m good condition, clean and runs super well nothing wrong with it. Pictures attached
Attachments
I also have a touchscreen head unit that I got for free. I move furniture for a living and people give me shit they don’t want and this guy gave me a $400 touch screen head unit because he was happy we did such a good job pics later
Similar threads
