Broken Camshaft Position Sensor fallen into Timing Chain Cover. What are my Options?

[jeff2007 Yukon]

Hello Yukon Experts. I could sure use your help.

I have a 2007 Yukon Denali 6.2L and was replacing the camshaft sensor but it was wedged tight. After working on it for sometime I was able to get most of it out but the last 1/4" of it pushed back into the timing cover while I was trying to get a screw into it.

This truck has has 210,000 miles on it and I am wondering if there is a creative way to get it out. Can I drive with it in there or do I need to remove the whole front end to get it out.

Thank you in advance for your help and insight.

Jeff

 

[strutaeng]

Oh wow. I would say remove the front timing cover and hopefully you can retrieve it. It would suck if you tried started the engine and the sensor somehow gets caught in the timing chain/sprockets.

Rent a harmonic balancer removal tool. Then heat the big bolt with a torch and remove it with an impact. To reinstall the (new) bolt, you'll need to get creative to tighten to the proper angular specification. Otherwise buy the tool that bolts to the flexplate to tighten it. You'll need to remove the starter. That's probably the hardest part for that job...

Worse case scenario the broken sensor fell into the oil pan.

Good luck.

 

[Geotrash]

Hello Yukon Experts. I could sure use your help.

I have a 2007 Yukon Denali 6.2L and was replacing the camshaft sensor but it was wedged tight. After working on it for sometime I was able to get most of it out but the last 1/4" of it pushed back into the timing cover while I was trying to get a screw into it.

This truck has has 210,000 miles on it and I am wondering if there is a creative way to get it out. Can I drive with it in there or do I need to remove the whole front end to get it out.

Thank you in advance for your help and insight.

Jeff

Bummer man. I agree with Carlos. You definitely don't want to start it with that in there. I would wager that you'll find it when you get that timing cover off - not much clearance for it to get down into the oil pan, but I've had to pull that too. Plan on a long Saturday if you have to pull the pan as well. Use the OEM Tools brand harmonic balancer puller (many parts stores will loan you one) and you'll need a heavy duty impact wrench to get that Jesus bolt off. I had to pull my fan shroud and radiator to get enough clearance with my big motha air impact. If you have time on your side, order the ARP harmonic balancer bolt for reinstalling the harmonic balancer because it's reusable and doesn't require an angle gauge to torque it down. Some ugga duggas with that impact wrench will fix you up.

 

[adventurenali92]

That’s not a fun surprise on what should be a simple sensor swap. I feel your pain…… as these guys have said pull the timing cover. It’s pretty easy once the drive accessories are out of the way…. Just did it with having to pull my oil pan and replace seals and the pickup tube o ring. And I redid the timing cover seal as it was leaking and replaced my pump as well. It’s a day job for sure just getting the accessories out of the way and then opening the timing cover. But it’s doable. It can be done with basic tools plus a good powerful impact.

 

[Charlie207]

Just to mirror what others have said: AutoZone/O'Reilly's/etc. have the puller to rent, and it's the Chrysler version, which fits perfectly on an LS crank pulley. Or, you can buy your own for $30 (same thing/different color).

Get the ARP bolt if you want to avoid messing with angle gauges. (worth it IMO, although there are people who reuse the TTY bolt with no issue.)

You can 3D print a timing cover centering tool, buy one, or hand-tighten the cover bolts and then install the crank pulley to center the cover before tightening it down. You don't need to touch the starter or lock the flywheel as long as you heat up the center of the crank pulley with a torch for a minute or two. It WILL install far enough onto the end of the crankshaft by hand-pressing it. Then you can finish the job by tightening the ARP bolt @235lb./ft. to install it all the way.

I just shifted my transfer case into 4LO, put the transmission in reverse, and set the parking brake.... the engine never came close to turning while torquing the crank bolt.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

Sorry, it is a damn bad day for you. I wish you the best.

 

[jeff2007 Yukon]

Thank you all for the guidance and giving me the confidence to take on the project. I know it will take some time and requires a few specialized tools to get the job completed. Could be a nice time to replace the water pump and timing chain.

I will keep everyone posted on my progress this weekend.

 

[OBSalsoNNBS]

Thank you all for the guidance and giving me the confidence to take on the project. I know it will take some time and requires a few specialized tools to get the job completed. Could be a nice time to replace the water pump and timing chain.

I will keep everyone posted on my progress this weekend.

Good luck!!

 

[dkad260]

OP, sorry to hear about this, can you elaborate on how the piece fell into the motor? Did the sensor break off while removing?

I just shifted my transfer case into 4LO, put the transmission in reverse, and set the parking brake.... the engine never came close to turning while torquing the crank bolt.

How can doing this keep the crankshaft from rotating when a torque converter is involved?

The crank bolt I believe should be replaced once removed. Reaching proper torque on mine which was 59 foot pounds plus 125 deg...I had a 2' pipe on a 2' breaker bar for the second pass of the two 63 deg (62+63) rotations. I used the flywheel locking tool, no chance the engine was going to remain stationary without it.